Josh Kellogg
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Does anyone else think waterslide decals for rocket kits are a pain in the butt to use? I can't stand using them. Is there any easier decals to use?
They just keep either tearing on the corners, not sticking well, and scrunching up. I don't really know if there is a tool out there to apply the decals. I just delicately pull them off the paper backing, then apply. But that also has been contributing to the tearing. I have been wetting the area where I want to apply it to adjust. But you saying that it doesn't go on well to matte and rough surfaces explains exactly some of my trouble! I don't know why I didn't think of that.I have no issues with water slide decals. Mind you, I've been applying them for well over 40 years.. I much prefer them to "sticker" or vinyl (although I do love vinyl for larger stuff!)
They do take a bit of practice, but I find the transition to them after one or two is pretty quick. They do have some drawbacks that might be leading to your distress: they don't like to stick on matt painted surfaces. they don't like rough surfaces, like a wood fin surface with fuzzies.. mass produced / dedicated decals are better than the ones printed on 'decal paper' (Decal paper / home printed decals are notorious for ripping, and the glue is iffy). The glue can (and does on some) wash off if left too long in the water..
My 2.6" Blue Bird Zero is all water slide decals.. Some BIG waterslide decals on that!
Josh, what issues are you having?
Thanks for the links and advice! I'll go check out those links. Any idea as to why they are getting thinner.Lately, the clear coat on some Estes decals have been thin.
Your first decal to soak is one you might not use on the model, like a logo. This gives you a chance to get an idea of the soaking time,
and how easily it slides off the backing.
Decals from different vendors and the age of the decal will effect soak to transfer times.
Cut up very large decals (some body tube roll decals) and piece them together on the model.
Always wet the decal location on the model before transferring the decal. That allows some sliding and re-positioning.
Here's some tips from my blog:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/09/decals-tips.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/05/decal-soaking-questions.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/06/even-more-kit-decal-problems.html
I'm new to it. I'll try the soap technique! It makes a lot of sense. And also, is it better to have warm water or does the temp of the water not matter?Water slide decals are a pain to use until everything clicks and you get the hang of putting them on correctly. That's not to say that you won't still mess one up from time to time because you will.
I don't know if you've been putting them on for years and know all this already, or are fairly new. So in case you're new to decals I'll say to make sure you use a few drops of soap (to break the surface tension of the water) in the bowl of water before putting in your decals, pull them out after a few seconds and let them sit to soften up. If you leave them in the water too long they'll slide off in the water and are much more difficult to use. Also, wet your fingers in the bowl and pre-wet the rocket where the decal goes before picking up the decal to slide it into place.
They actually work great and look great when done correctly.
And if you've been doing this for years and know all this already, just ignore this post.
This is the source of your frustrations. At no point should you ever be pulling a decal from the backing like a sticker.I just delicately pull them off the paper backing, then apply.
This is the source of your frustrations. At no point should you ever be pulling a decal from the backing like a sticker.
First, and very importantly, paint your rocket with gloss paint. If you're going to use decals never matte paint or anything other than gloss. If you want a matte finish you can cover the final rocket with a matte clear coat after you put on the decals and it will look the same.
Get a cereal bowl with a couple inches of water (warm may feel better but I don't think it makes a difference to the decal application) in the bottom and add two drops of dish soap. Not enough soap to get it bubbly. 2 drops is plenty.
Cut a decal from your sheet leaving very little, less than 1/8" border, around the printed part. Maybe try a test piece to see the timing every time you get a different kit, not all decals take the same amount of time.
Put the decal into the water and push it under and let it stay submerged for about 15 seconds. Then take it out and set it aside to continue to soak. After a couple of minutes put your fingers back into the water to get them wet (from this point always handle with wet fingers!!) and pick up the decal and see if it EASILY slides around on the backing paper. If it doesn't then let it sit for another minute. It should slide off the backing like a cooked egg off a non-stick pan.
With the decal still ON the backing paper, use your wet fingers to wet the area of your rocket that you're going to apply the decal to.
Hold the decal nearly exactly where it will end up and gently SLIDE the decal to the side. While holding one edge of the decal to the rocket slowly pull the backing paper out sideways in a sliding motion. They're called Water Slide decals for a reason.
You should have the decal on the rocket almost where it goes, but not exactly. With wet fingers slide it into place and then very gently press it into place in the middle and gently roll your finger towards the edge of the decal. This will push water out from under the decal and let it stay in place.
Use a napkin to carefully blot all the water off your rocket and let the decal fully dry for a few hours. After the decals are fully dry you should cover the rocket in a few coats of clear paint to protect the decals from coming off in time.
Excellent description from Mushtang.
Here is a nice short (~4 minute) video that shows a pretty refined waterslide technique:
I can vouch for using a Q-tip to "roll out" the water bubbles underneath, works great.
Here's a longer one, with some details that are more plastic-model-specific, but still great:
Do you seal the rocket first?Lately, the clear coat on some Estes decals have been thin.
Your first decal to soak is one you might not use on the model, like a logo. This gives you a chance to get an idea of the soaking time,
and how easily it slides off the backing.
Decals from different vendors and the age of the decal will effect soak to transfer times.
Cut up very large decals (some body tube roll decals) and piece them together on the model.
Always wet the decal location on the model before transferring the decal. That allows some sliding and re-positioning.
Here's some tips from my blog:
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2013/09/decals-tips.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/05/decal-soaking-questions.html
https://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/2014/06/even-more-kit-decal-problems.html
Do you seal the rocket first?
For example, can you apply water decals directly to unpainted white body tubes?
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