Washing machine motor wiring question

[prfesser]

Pulled the motor from the old washing machine to be used in another project. Label says 1/3 hp, reversible, and requires a capacitor. Which I also removed but isn't in the image. The wires to the capacitor are red and yellow. As you can see here, there are just three wires to the motor; red, yellow, and white. No green-for-ground which is kinda strange.

My first thought was the obvious: connect capacitor and motor, red to red and yellow to yellow. I'm also assuming that red is hot, 110vac, and yellow is neutral but that may be a poor assumption. As to how the motor is reversible, I haven't a clue. I don't need reversibility though, I just need the motor to run.

Any of you appliance-savvy folks who know how this is supposed to be wired? Thanks for any help!

 

[Funkworks]

My first step would be to watch this, as I've never played with washing machine electricals myself.

 

[manixFan]

From that video: "the new washing machines usually have 3 phase motors that are computer controlled and are really complicated to setup". But I found this video that demonstrates how to test the motor you show in your picture, it actually looks very simple:



Hmm, I just got rid of my circa 1997 washing maching. I should have pulled the motor first!


Tony

 

[JimByrne]

My guess is that white is the common & red is one direction & yellow is the reverse.
Is there a placard on the motor with a drawing?

 

[hobie1dog]

 

[Grog6]

The phase shift of the capacitor gives the motor an off-balance torque on startup; it goes to a start winding, in series with a centrifugal switch. The winding is only connected while the motor is spinning up, then disconnects when it gets to speed. Red phase, yellow start, and white to neutral. Reverse white and red to change directions. I use a power strip, and a suicide cord to test ac stuff; it's an ac plug that has alligator clips on the other end. Don't make such without thinking, it will kill you. The 15A breaker on the strip you use is critical, just in case of shorts. (The safety guy at work liked to have died when he saw my cable rack, lol. I think the SHV cable with clips that bothered him the most, lol.

 

[Banzai88]

I use a power strip, and a suicide cord to test ac stuff; it's an ac plug that has alligator clips on the other end. Don't make such without thinking, it will kill you. The 15A breaker on the strip you use is critical, just in case of shorts. (The safety guy at work liked to have died when he saw my cable rack, lol. I think the SHV cable with clips that bothered him the most, lol.

Hahahahahaha, we test things at work all the time with a suicide cord and power strip, just as you describe. Such an incredibly useful tool!

It's the #1 thing our Safety rep looks for when doing his annual inspection!

 

[prfesser]

From that video: "the new washing machines usually have 3 phase motors that are computer controlled and are really complicated to setup". But I found this video that demonstrates how to test the motor you show in your picture, it actually looks very simple:



Hmm, I just got rid of my circa 1997 washing maching. I should have pulled the motor first!


Tony

It would seem that my motor is shot. Hooked it up several different ways and it just sits there and hums. Oh well. Thanks to everyone for the help!

 

[OverTheTop]

Is your capacitor still a capacitor? It needs to be to create the rotating field to get the motor started.

If you don't have a capacitance meter you can get a good feel for it if you measure ohms one way, and then the other. Should start low resistance and go to megohms each time you swap connections.

 

[tsmith1315]

And if you don't have a capacitance meter, you should get one of these little doohickeys:

https://www.amazon.com/Mega328-Digital-Transistor-Resistance-Capacitance/dp/B07WT9VVZB

It's cheap and seems to be accurate enough for non-critical work. Many different suppliers out there besides this one.

 

[prfesser]

Is your capacitor still a capacitor? It needs to be to create the rotating field to get the motor started.

If you don't have a capacitance meter you can get a good feel for it if you measure ohms one way, and then the other. Should start low resistance and go to megohms each time you swap connections.

I haven't checked the capacitor itself but will do so. I did connect it according to the wiring colors, to no effect.

 

[Voyhager3]

The second I clicked on thread to investigate this intriguing topic, I started getting ads for washing machines…

But now I want to take apart a washing machine or dryer…

 

[Rex R]

My father built an electric mower with a washer motor, the blade only went in a partial circle...then it would back up.

 

[Grog6]

If it's still and hums, that means it's not starting. either a bad centrifugal switch, or a bad start winding. To confirm, reach down and spin the shaft with your hand; if it takes off and spins, it's the start winding.