USR Sonic 3100-Phase 2

[Elapid]

the sales literature quotes speeds of Mach 2 for this rocket.

it makes no mention of fiberglass reinforcement.

am I to understand that an un-glassed, paper and wood rocket will safely fly 2x the speed of sound?

also, the weight quoted (1kg) did not quite cover the parts contained in the kit, glue and paint surely add weight.

was the Mach 2 calculated or measured?
if calculated, was it calculated using the 1kg weight listed in the literature, or using a more realistic weight of a fiberglassed airframe?

https://v-serv.com/usr/kits/sonic3100_phase2.htm

 

[Jerry Irvine]

Originally posted by Elapid
the sales literature quotes speeds of Mach 2 for this rocket.

it makes no mention of fiberglass reinforcement.

am I to understand that an un-glassed, paper and wood rocket will safely fly 2x the speed of sound?

also, the weight quoted (1kg) did not quite cover the parts contained in the kit, glue and paint surely add weight.
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Nice picture!

This tube has been exposed to morors from SU 1200K2000 to SU 3400L1500 unglassed. This tubing is STOUT!!.

I believe M2.0 is an understatement of its fail speed since none has been observed yet. Any glassing should first hold the fins into the slots from excessive acceleration or drag force

Very few of the weights on the web pages or instructions are accurate. A long time ago I used to make the first few kits accurate (including CP and CD) but have slacked off. So if you have a rocsim or a vcp and a measured mass I would cheerfully add them to the website and instructions.

I have incorporated procedures to actually accept and publish consumer data and feedback and results unlike any other manufacturer.

Someday I will update yet more paperwork to make it accurate, but there was consensus that releasing about 3 dozen kits in the past 6-12 months took precedence :kill:

New Year Jerry

 

[KarlD]

I can vouch for the thickness of the Sonic 3100 Tubes. they are almost 1/4" thick, and have some serious sprials that need to be filled.

Next week is my club launch for January. With luck, I plan to go for my lvl 1 with a Sonic 3100. I will post pictures when I can.

Plus I have a Sonic3100-Phase 2 as my next project. Looks like it will be fun adapting her for an altimeter and a timer airstart.

/Grin.

 

[Jerry Irvine]

Originally posted by KarlD
I can vouch for the thickness of the Sonic 3100 Tubes. they are almost 1/4" thick

0.08"

Many PML tubes are 0.062". The 25% increase and better material almost doubles the strength. Unglassed.

Jerry V.2005

 

[Elapid]

ready for staged flight...it sim'd to M.95 on the J275W. It looked pretty fast in-person, too!

next flight will have a G-Wiz controlling flight events.

14k feet, here we come!

 

[KarlD]

Here is a picture of my Sonic 3100. I did not get any flight pictures, and unfortunately I did not pass my Level 1 Cert...this month.

The Flight was beautiful. I used a surplus 5' parachute which was a bit much for her. The decent rate was very slow...too slow. Touchdown was perfect.

When I retrieved her I found out why the descent was slower than expected. My 38mm 240n Casing had been ejected.....

"sigh"

Oh Well...I learned a good lesson about POSITIVE motor retention. Another case is on the way, and if the weather cooperates in February, I will get my Cert.

This rocket is perfect for a level 1 BTW with a H 123W Reload. Sims to 1500 feet, and it did all of it in real life. I had a few comments about "A H123 did That?!?!" The height was unreal.

Jerry's kits are high-flyers for sure...

More pics in February.

 

[KarlD]

One of my club members got a picture of ignition with his Vid camera.

Enjoy!

 

[Rocketmaniac]

Does this kit use TTW construction? In the picture of the parts, I didn't see any slots in the body tubes. I didn't know if TTW wasn't used or you had to slot your own tubes.

 

[KarlD]

TTW is used and you have to cut your own slots. It's not too bad if you use a box-cutter knife, fresh blades, and a stainless-steel ruler as a cutting guide.

 

[Rocket Al]

When I do slots on my USR kits, instead of using a plain straight edge, use a piece of aluminum angle like you already use for marking straight lines at the fin locations. Use a couple of strong rubber bands above and below the area where the slot begins and ends. The positive positioning provided by the cradling action of the metal angle piece helps make slots that are perfectly parallel (enough alliteration in that sentence for you?) with the longitudinal axis of the tube.

My $.02

Alan

 

[KarlD]

Thank you for that idea! I will try it on my next tube-cutting project!