U-POL paints?

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David_Stack

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Good Morning All;

During a recent foray to my local auto parts store I noted that they are now carrying another line of paint, "U-POL".

Anyone have any first-hand experience with the brand? Thinking specifically of their one part non-catalyzed clear (U-POL Clear #1).

One aspect worries me, and that is this comment in the Technical Data Sheet:
"For best results, ensure the surface is thoroughly cleaned, degreased, dried and dust free. Abrade solid
colored coatings wet or dry with 800-1000 grit sandpaper, degrease and dry. CLEAR#1 UV Resistant Clearcoat Aerosol within a period 20 minutes after applying solvent-based basecoats.". My color basecoats were applied well over 20 minutes ago (more like days/weeks). Unfortunately I used the last of my color basecoat paint, so have no opportunity to prepare a test piece...
 
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I bought a can of their sandable spray primer several months ago. I have yet to try it.
 
Good Morning All;

During a recent foray to my local auto parts store I noted that they are now carrying another line of paint, "U-POL".

Anyone have any first-hand experience with the brand? Thinking specifically of their one part non-catalyzed clear (U-POL Clear #1).

One aspect worries me, and that is this comment in the Technical Data Sheet:
"For best results, ensure the surface is thoroughly cleaned, degreased, dried and dust free. Abrade solid
colored coatings wet or dry with 800-1000 grit sandpaper, degrease and dry. CLEAR#1 UV Resistant Clearcoat Aerosol within a period 20 minutes after applying solvent-based basecoats.". My color basecoats were applied well over 20 minutes ago (more like days/weeks). Unfortunately I used the last of my color basecoat paint, so have no opportunity to prepare a test piece...
That s all I use now unless I need a different color of course. Great paint. Dries quickly so I can get second coats and 2nd colors on quickly.
 

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I've never used this product but you know what dissed me off in days of old? If I didn't spray a second or third coat of enamel on within an hour and I didn't let the enamel dry for a week, It would bubble up and destroy my finish if I sprayed too soon outside of an hour! I didn't read the directions!

Again, this is not the U-POL product as I've never used it and this is NOT criticism against it!

It's a reminiscing about canned Farm King or Wal-Mart spray paint enamel from the past.
I've still go a few super high gloss rockets in the basement I sealed, primed, shot a few coats of color, wet sanded after drying for a week and shot clear coats and wet sanded with ultra fine sandpaper. THEN used "rubbing" compound, then "polishing" compound and then "car wax" to get a "glass" finish.
The key if not shooting a coat of "whatever" was let it dry for a week or more or shoot another coat in 20 minutes. Then going through the "wet sanding" ordeal after drying for at least a week!

Car wax is o.k. to use on a spray can enamel finish like that but don't use any kind of paint thinner for cleaning as it will strip everything off!! Don't ask me again how I found out! Had to strip and sand off to start all over with a project. A two part epoxy paint might be able to handle paint thinner of whatever kind for cleaning but it's a PITA to use too.

A "glass" finish is a PITA to do on a project and if there is a risk it might become a "lost rocket" don't waste your time.
 
Love it
 

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I see you are using the enamel. I only glanced at the label on the clear, but I was of the impression it was something else. The MSDS on the manufacturer's site does not seem to specifically state what it is (enamel, lacquer, other...).

No matter, for the moment weather here in Tidewater, VA. is less than ideal for painting today and for the next several days (assuming one does not have a dedicated paint booth). Humidity 70+ % and a dewpoint almost identical. Tropical Storm Debby has me in a holding pattern.
 
Don't use paint thinner to clean the rocket. The reason I have "paint thinner" in my head as when my dad's '74 Cadillac got tar spray on the finish after going through a construction site, we could take turpentine or "whatever" paint thinner to get it off after washing and then waxing it without messing up the finish. Car paints are "different" from spray paint enamel. I tried that on a rocket and it stripped the paint off when I was building/painting it and had to start over on the painting side. As mentioned I have rockets with a "glass" finish but will not use paint thinner on them ever and I recommend the same to anyone else.
 
Don't use paint thinner to clean the rocket. The reason I have "paint thinner" in my head as when my dad's '74 Cadillac got tar spray on the finish after going through a construction site, we could take turpentine or "whatever" paint thinner to get it off after washing and then waxing it without messing up the finish. Car paints are "different" from spray paint enamel. I tried that on a rocket and it stripped the paint off when I was building/painting it and had to start over on the painting side. As mentioned I have rockets with a "glass" finish but will not use paint thinner on them ever and I recommend the same to anyone else.
I don't see any reason a person would use paint thinner to clean their rocket.
 
I see you are using the enamel. I only glanced at the label on the clear, but I was of the impression it was something else. The MSDS on the manufacturer's site does not seem to specifically state what it is (enamel, lacquer, other...).

No matter, for the moment weather here in Tidewater, VA. is less than ideal for painting today and for the next several days (assuming one does not have a dedicated paint booth). Humidity 70+ % and a dewpoint almost identical. Tropical Storm Debby has me in a holding pattern.
I believe they have enamel and lacquer. I prefer the enamel
 
I used it to clean off tar on cars in the 70's and was stupid and learned the hard way after I painted rockets. I was isolated with no mentors.
Thing is, do it once and one will never do it again!!
Great learning experience
 
I can’t find the Expert paints on their website at all. Can someone post a link?
I wonder if it is something they are labeling specific for Autozone, but it identical to one of their 'advertised' U-Pol offerings.

Years ago you used to be able to buy THE BEST(*) grey filler primer at NAPA under their "Colorline" label; DC540. Believe it was actually a Sherwin-Williams or Duplicolor product. Regardless, it flashed off quickly, sanded so well, never clogged paper, etc. Formula was changed and the current Colorline DC540 is nothing like the prior one (apart from the ID number)

(*) - Many US control line stunt modelers, who still BUILD their models and turn out absolute masterpieces used to swear by DC540. After the formula changes they were resorted to swearing at it...
 
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