Two things I've learned this past week . . .

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

AKPilot

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2009
Messages
5,347
Reaction score
4
I've been looking at a Fine Scale Modeling magazine this week and learned two interesting things:

1) For masking around curves, use plumbers tape.

2) For masking larger areas, use blue tack to lay the boundaries and then place plastic (sandwhich bag, saran wrap, etc.) over the blue tack. Use an exacto to press the plastic into the blue tack while it cuts. Paint and then remove.

These modelers have short cuts I would've never thought about.
 
Plumbers tape? You mean, the Teflon stuff? How would you get it to adhere tightly enough to seal out the second color and produce a clean line?

Mark \\.
 
I've been looking at a Fine Scale Modeling magazine this week and learned two interesting things:

1) For masking around curves, use plumbers tape.

2) For masking larger areas, use blue tack to lay the boundaries and then place plastic (sandwhich bag, saran wrap, etc.) over the blue tack. Use an exacto to press the plastic into the blue tack while it cuts. Paint and then remove.

These modelers have short cuts I would've never thought about.

And I'd like you to elaborate on the second one.
 
1) For masking around curves, use plumbers tape.

Please explain. I have several types of tape in my truck and can't figure out how to use any of them for masking.
 
Last edited:
Please explain. I have several types of tape in my truck and figure out how to use any of them for masking.

I find that the blue painters tape from 3m works best for painting it doesn't pull off the paint underneth it when you remove it.Now if I could only fogure out how to not have it bleed under the paint without having to put a light coat of the paint I am painting under or a way to not have a big paint ridge along the tape line I would be set.
 
I find that the blue painters tape from 3m works best for painting it doesn't pull off the paint underneth it when you remove it.Now if I could only fogure out how to not have it bleed under the paint without having to put a light coat of the paint I am painting under or a way to not have a big paint ridge along the tape line I would be set.

What I do is run my fingernail along the edge of the tape to further seal the edge. It works well for me. Very little bleeding, if at all.
 
I find that the blue painters tape from 3m works best for painting it doesn't pull off the paint underneth it when you remove it.Now if I could only fogure out how to not have it bleed under the paint without having to put a light coat of the paint I am painting under or a way to not have a big paint ridge along the tape line I would be set.

I've heard that Frog Tape is really good but their website seems to indicate that it's for latex paint.

Neither of those are plumber's tape. I want to know how to use that because I must have some.
 
I've been looking at a Fine Scale Modeling magazine this week and learned two interesting things:

1) For masking around curves, use plumbers tape.

2) For masking larger areas, use blue tack to lay the boundaries and then place plastic (sandwhich bag, saran wrap, etc.) over the blue tack. Use an exacto to press the plastic into the blue tack while it cuts. Paint and then remove.

These modelers have short cuts I would've never thought about.
Which issue was it in? I have every issue of Fine Scale Modeler for the last 15 years.
 
Traditionally in the building trades, "Plumber's Tape" referes to galvanized metal strapping with holes/slots used to hang pipe, ductwork, etc., so I am sure Troy is referring to something else also called plumber's tape.

I use "The Edge" masking tape to define the paint line. It comes in a few different widths and easily makes sharp turns, and always leaves a crisp line. I have never had a problem with it although it is a bit spendy. I found it at an art supply store in the airbrush department.

Then, overlapping The Edge I use Frog tape (which in my opinion is far superior to the blue tape). Again, it is spendier, but well worth it. It works well with acrylic airbrush paints and I have also used it with Rustoleum rattle can paints with no issues.

To cover real large areas I use Glad Press'n Seal with another strip of frog tape along the egde of the Press'n Seal. The only downside is that sometimes it leaves a sticky residue but it is easily cleaned off.
 
Traditionally in the building trades, "Plumber's Tape" referes to galvanized metal strapping with holes/slots used to hang pipe, ductwork, etc.,

Isn't that what's known as strapping?
 
Traditionally in the building trades, "Plumber's Tape" referes to galvanized metal strapping with holes/slots used to hang pipe, ductwork, etc., so I am sure Troy is referring to something else also called plumber's tape.

I use "The Edge" masking tape to define the paint line. It comes in a few different widths and easily makes sharp turns, and always leaves a crisp line. I have never had a problem with it although it is a bit spendy. I found it at an art supply store in the airbrush department.

Then, overlapping The Edge I use Frog tape (which in my opinion is far superior to the blue tape). Again, it is spendier, but well worth it. It works well with acrylic airbrush paints and I have also used it with Rustoleum rattle can paints with no issues.

To cover real large areas I use Glad Press'n Seal with another strip of frog tape along the egde of the Press'n Seal. The only downside is that sometimes it leaves a sticky residue but it is easily cleaned off.
Wow, I have never heard of pipe hanger strap referred to as plumber's tape. I learn something new every time I log onto TRF!

I have also never heard of "The Edge" masking tape. (Does it have any connection with a guitarist from a certain band from Ireland? :D ) Seriously, where do you get it from? (Who sells it?)

Mark \\.
 
Wow, I have never heard of pipe hanger strap referred to as plumber's tape.

Me either and I've been a plumber for 40 years! It must be a regional thing because when I Googled "plumber's tape" one of the definitions was what we call perforated strap. If you walk into a plumbing wholesaler and ask for "plumber's tape" they'll know you're not a plumber. We just ask for a roll of teflon.

But back to the important question. How is this stuff used for masking?
 
I've had great luck using the Scotch Brand (3M) Matte Finish Removable Tape. You can buy it in office supply stores.
It's in a standard Scotch Tape plastic "holder" with a blue plaid package.
I saw the tip in the Apogee Newsletter.
Initially, it doesn't feel like it grips enough to provide an adequate seal, but it does work well.
It won't work around a nose cone curvature but for general masking (if you have a smooth surface) it's great!

You mentioned a "frisket" ("friskit?") masking material from a artist supply store. Years ago, I used "Rubylith" masking film with great results. It was used to do color separations in the printing processes.

Good luck with this. Like anything else it may take a few tries to get a feel for it.

Hans "Chris" Michielssen

4A. Masking Tapes.jpg
 
The Blue Tack putty works pretty well for masking camo paint schemes. We (plastic modelers) often use it to create the "fuzzy edged" camo on some of the different models. The one that I most recently did was an F-15 in the two-tone scheme. There are a few ways I typically use the putty (BTW, I use silly putty also):

1) As a hard edge: Push the putty down where you want the edge to be then trim it square with an Xacto knife. Seals the edge and makes a crisp line.

2) Use little snake like rolls as the edge. Roll out the putty in little snakes and place it down where the edge should be. Then fill in between the rolls with your favorite making material. The smaller the snakes, the tighter the edge will be. Here is an example (about halfway down the page):
https://www.ipmsstockholm.org/magazine/2003/01/stuff_eng_isaksson_lavat.htm

3) Use the little snakes and a paper mask. This is for a softer edge that gives a wider fade: Take the little snakes and put them on the model a little bit back of where the line will be. Add a paper edge on top of the snake where the line should be. The paper should sit off the model a little so when you spray the paint, a little flows under the paper causing a larger fade. The putty is used to control how high off the model the paper edge is. The higher the paper, the larger the fade. Lower, produces a tight fade. You can only go so high with the edge or the fade turns into an "over spray" type look. Not good......
 
Frog tape works very good, not as tacky as the Blue tape, which works very well also. Try hitting the areas masked off with a light coat of clear, this helps to seal the edges as well.


As for plumbers tape, IIRC, there is some stuff that they use to wrap around pipes to help with some small leaks, especially where the pipes come together. It's black, but I think it's pretty thick, and I'm not sure of it's tackiness. Used it once about 9 years ago, but not for rockets, for plumbing.
 
I have also never heard of "The Edge" masking tape. (Does it have any connection with a guitarist from a certain band from Ireland? :D ) Seriously, where do you get it from? (Who sells it?)

Mark \\.

Mark.... I bought it at Dick Blick Art Materials
 
Me either and I've been a plumber for 40 years! It must be a regional thing because when I Googled "plumber's tape" one of the definitions was what we call perforated strap. If you walk into a plumbing wholesaler and ask for "plumber's tape" they'll know you're not a plumber. We just ask for a roll of teflon.

But back to the important question. How is this stuff used for masking?

From wisegeek.com....
_.gif


There are two common references to plumber's tape: one that should correctly be called Teflon tape, and one that is more correctly referred to as metal strapping. In both cases, the product is referred to as plumber's tape since it is most commonly used by plumbers.
 
From wisegeek.com....
_.gif


There are two common references to plumber's tape: one that should correctly be called Teflon tape, and one that is more correctly referred to as metal strapping. In both cases, the product is referred to as plumber's tape since it is most commonly used by plumbers.


Have to agree with Bill:
I've been in the construction fields for 40+year also and have NEVER heard of pipe strapping or hangers referred to as plumbers tape. More importantly NEITHER Plumbers teflon tape or any galvanized strapping is going to make any kind of sense at all used in masking curved surfaces.
Sure Wish AK would come back on and enlighten us with the wisdom of the Fine Scale modeling crowd...I let me subscription laps:(
 
I agree with Bill, too, but for a different reason: it must be a regional thing, like he said. Growing up in Idaho, as the son of a guy in the pump business, I learned the perforated stuff as "plumbers tape". Thought it kind of strange even then.

Reading Bravo52's post and re-reading Akpilot's original post, I now see that he said blue TACK, not TAPE. I couldn't figure out how you could press something into tape. Thanks for clearing that up, Bravo52.
 
Here's the skinny:
The FSM Troy referenced is the March 2009 issue, Reader Tips column, p. 52.

Without going into so much detail that would violate the copyright, the blue tack Troy mentioned is generically sticky tack, one brand of which is Blu Tack by Bostik, a re-usable adhesive putty. The plumber's tape is described as "Teflon tape, also known as plumber's thread-seal tape."
 
...it must be a regional thing, like he said. Growing up in Idaho, as the son of a guy in the pump business, I learned the perforated stuff as "plumbers tape".....

And I grew up in Nevada where I learned the same thing.
 
As kids we used to take a short piece with 3 holes and fold it in half (so there was about 1/8" gap between halves) to make really loud whistles when you blew through it. What the heck were we thinking by putting a dirty piece of metal with rough edges in our mouths?
 
What I do is run my fingernail along the edge of the tape to further seal the edge. It works well for me. Very little bleeding, if at all.
I do the fingernail thing; then, I apply a very light coat of the 2nd color, just a misting really, along the tape edge. If it doesn't get very wet, it doesn't bleed much if at all. I let it get partly dry (15 minutes to half an hour for current rattlecan paint), and repeat; then after another brief drying phase, I apply the regular coat.
 
Back
Top