Trying to mask flames on body tube

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dbryantphoto

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i'm trying to achieve a cool flame pattern on my rocket. What I did was purchase some Frisket film, sketch the flames and then cut the flame pattern out carefully with an exacto knife. Not an easy task. Can anyone offer some good advice when trying to mask flames onto a BT
 

stickershock23

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Brian,

W offer Masks made to fit anything. If you find a flame pattern you like (Some are available on my website)
rocket wraps
I can custom cut a mask in that pattern to exactly fit your tubing!

Not only can I do flames, but just about anything you can think of.
Here is a picture of Brian Smith's rocket all done with paint and custom masks.
Looks way cooler than I could do with decals!

Mark. :D

run with sci 1.jpg
 

AHansom

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The tip I got from the painter at the local hot rod shop was "its easy you just mask off every thing that doesn't look like a flame". Other than that advice I did use a 2 color flame decal from StickerShock on a 4" rocket that I really like. Not quite the same challange as freestyle masking but very nice results.

Andy

krakenflame.jpg
 

Micromeister

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i'm trying to achieve a cool flame pattern on my rocket. What I did was purchase some Frisket film, sketch the flames and then cut the flame pattern out carefully with an exacto knife. Not an easy task. Can anyone offer some good advice when trying to mask flames onto a BT
I'm a signman and Sign Panter. We do frisket patterns all the time.

to make it as simple as possible you use 2 layers of to transfer the pattern to the prepared body.

you'll need to layout your pattern in the flat on paper, Check the fit by wrapping the paper pattern around the BT. when you have your pattern the proper size, transfer it to the frisket paper and cut it out in the flat on a cutting board or other backing material so your not cutting into the table top, cardboard can be used in a pinch. just tape the frisket paper to the cutting board with masking tape.
once the pattern has been completely knifed a 2nd layer of frisket paper is applied over the first. this one should be just slightly larger then your cut-out pattern. remove the backing and apply the "transfer Layer" to the cutout pattern.
flip the combined patterns over and remove the backing from your cutout pattern. transfer the 2 layer pattern to your model carefully aligning to the center line you drew down the length of the model. starting on the line carefully wrap the patterning around the body. without pressing down to much until your sure the pattern is where you want it, if the alignement isn't correct back if off gently and adjust til you get it to your likeing. then squeegee it down tight and immediately but carefully remove the 2nd lay sheet using a knife point and tweezers to unstick small points and corners. this part takes a bit of time so go slowly trying not to tear your base pattern. if you do a little tape can repair the rip. once the transfer layer is off you can again squeegee the pattern down on the bodytube, seal it with matte clear and spray our color. Hold this helps.

PS: It's easier cut the flames from adhesive backed vinyl then use a wetting agent and a frisket paper transfer sheet to apply the flames. No painting involved;)
 
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hardinlw

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I used flame masks from Stickershock to mask flames on a Hawk Mountain Basilisk. The rocket is 2" and all fiberglass. Stickershock supplied two similar masks. One may have been a mirror image of the other. Anyway, same look but different. Each mask sheet had what I'll call a positive (what the flames would look like) and the mask on it.

After priming, I painted the whole rocket bright yellow which was then wet-sanded with 320 to promote adhesion of subsequent coats.

Next, I used the POSITIVE from Mask1 to mask off the upper part of the rocket and painted the lower part chartreuse (obtained by mixing a small amount of green into the yellow paint). When dry, I removed the masking and wet-sanded with 320.

Moving up a little, I applied the MASK from Mask2 and painted everything above that orange. Let dry, remove masking, and wet-sand.

Moving up even more, I applied the MASK from Mask1 and painted the nose of the rocket red. Let dry, remove masking, and wet-sand.

Finally, I sprayed clear over everything.

I noticed that the adhesive on the masks left some residue on the rocket each time. This has to be removed with some kind of solvent. Since I was using Klass Kote epoxy paint, I used lacquer thinner. Of course, you could not use that if you are painting with something that lacquer thinner would attack.
 
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