# Total airbrush newb obsevation and question

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#### Pem Tech

##### Well-Known Member
OK, so after getting back into rocketry several years ago I learned the fine art of finishing and painting. Well, somewhat...
As time has passed and my laziness has grown I discovered that sanding every little, tiny blemish out of any filler and primer was not necessary with the liberal application of decent rattle can paint. Matter of fact, I landed my greatest catch (Trudy) with my finishing skills. (not meaning to brag) On our first date she was so impressed with the HMAS Bonestell that she decided to continue going out with me, even though I am old and round.
:clap:

ANYWAY....
So, now I have started using a Paashe H single action, and am thrilled that the paint is less expensive, doesn't over-spray and is custom mixable. But the Createx paint apparently goes on so thin that it shows ever stinking little nick, void or sanding mark. Heck, I usually finish primer with 230 grit Norton sandpaper and get a fab finish with a rattle can but now their are valleys in my paint!
:bangpan:

For those of you not put to sleep by this little diatribe here are the questions.
Is this an inescapable result of using an airbrush and Createx?
Am I putting the paint on too thin?

#### BsSmith

##### Well-Known Member
I have the same brush!

I had the same problem with Creatix paint, especially the pearl white. It is very thin, translucent paint. The solution that I've found is to use Creatix white as an undercoat, because it is not as thin. Then,once the white is blemish free, spray the color coat on top.

It's was a looooong process for me (especially because I was painting a 6ft tall rocket), but the results were well worth it. The pearl white and blue look great if you can get them right.

#### stantonjtroy

##### Well-Known Member
Couple of things. Createx is an acrylic. As such it has a high shrink rate as it dries and it tends to dry very fast. This will in turn show more flaws. Plactic enamel (model paint, Krylon, Rustoleum, etc) and urethaine paints tend to dry a little (or a lot) slower and as such flow out and level a little better. As a rule I final sand primer with a 320 grt minium, 400grt if I have it. The smoother the better. Your prep is your finish. As for the airbrush, the finer the tip and needle ( or difusion cone) the finer the atomization of the paint. This allows it to go on thinner. I prefer the internal mix, duel action brush. It gives better overall control of flow and fluid placement. Hope this helps.

#### Pem Tech

##### Well-Known Member
*whew*
Thanks guys, I was worried no one was going to pitch in and help a brother out.

So, finer sandpaper and white under coating it is.

#### UPscaler

##### New Member
While adding several coats of createx can cover up cracks better. I like to use testors paint thinned down with mineral spirits.

but I got a tip from a tripoli idaho meeting. Appearently, the thing to use is latex wall paint, thinned with washer fluid. Like the kind you put in your car.

I haven't tried it yet, but I've read some good things about it online.

#### jim fustini

##### Well-Known Member
I use Faskolor by Parma. It is for Lexan RC car and truck bodies. It covers very well. Works on Wood, Ceramic, Plastic, cardboard and Fiberglass. It is non- toxic and cleans up with water, I have painted over 50 model, mid and highpower rockets with it. No problems. Here is one of my high power rockets painted with Faskolor air brushed (blue and purple) and Krylon ( yellow rattle can)

Here is another.

#### BsSmith

##### Well-Known Member
Although I haven't tried it yet in the airbrush, I've been thinking of making a full switch to duplicolor paint. The airbrush paint only comes in primary colors, but it's easy enough to mix. Duplicolor also has an amazing assortion of clear coats, so I can mix translucent paints for that extra bit of detail.

#### JAL3

##### Well-Known Member
Layne,

You're doing things the hard way. Head on over to Sherwin Williams and pick up a gallon of your color of choice. That should be enough to paint lots of rockets especially since you specialize in the mid 20th century metallics. Also pick up 2 gallons of paint thinner and find yourself a #3 washtub. Mix the paint and thinner thoroughy in the tub. Grip the rocket by the shock cord and dip it into the tub, withdrawing it slowly and letting it drip into the tub (or Trudy will have something to say about it). Suspend it from the clothesline for 24 hours and you're good to go.

Save the airbrushes for the artists. You need to get back to engineering and put out some newer selections!

#### FatBoy

##### Random Part-time Hobbyist
I use Faskolor by Parma. It is for Lexan RC car and truck bodies. It covers very well. Works on Wood, Ceramic, Plastic, cardboard and Fiberglass.
Jim... I looked at Parma's Faskolor a few times and thought about trying it (especially because of the brilliant colors available), but since it was made specificly for Lexan, I didn't think it would be good for cardboard and wood. Thanks - I am going to have to give it a try.

#### FatBoy

##### Random Part-time Hobbyist
I had the same problem with Creatix paint, especially the pearl white. It is very thin, translucent paint.
I have used a lot of the pearlized and irridescent Createx paint too. It's light-reflecting properties unfortunately also reflect off of undesirable surfaces, like the sides of balsa grain and tube spirals. This makes minor flaws and imperfections look horribly magnified. I have also tried your solution of a white undercoat, but that was mainly done because the white is more opaque, giving a better base to put down the pearlized paint. I guess I hadn't realized that at the same time I was helping to hide some imperfections too.

#### Pem Tech

##### Well-Known Member
Layne,

Save the airbrushes for the artists. You need to get back to engineering and put out some newer selections!
Yes Brother John....
You are right....
There are just so many projects and so little time!

#### Stymye

##### Well-Known Member
Layne , hit your rockets with a can of white spray paint(of your choice) before using the airbrush.
If you want them really slick ,wet sand the white basecoat.
I do this with every rocket
than airbrush away

If I recall faskolor costs twice as much as createx/auto air.(ok...it's also fuel proof)
Now if people are trying to cover grain, blemishes and cracks with paint well...mabey the problem lies more in the construction finishing rather than the paint. airbrushing/painting is mabeythe last 10% of the job to a great looking finish

#### Sandy H.

##### Well-Known Member
When I painted a motorcycle helmet years ago it looked pretty bad until the clearcoat, which once sanded made it look great.

I too notice that the Createx paints seem thin and almost add a little bit of wrinkle finish. I have clear coated one rocket and it was better, but still not great. Maybe give that a try on some scrap and see if it helps.

Sandy.

#### jim fustini

##### Well-Known Member
I have tried Createx airbrush paint too with poor results.