Top Coat over Krylon????

[astronboy]

Hi Guys,

I have never used Krylon paints before. I grabbed a can recently, and just painted a base coat of gloss white on my Ranger clone's payload section. The sucker appears to be dry already!! I see that the can says to allow 1 hour before handling, and you can topcoat anytime... but franlky, I find this hard to believe.

How long should I wait before i mask of the nosecone and spray it red?

Phred

 

[Vanel]

I wait at least 48 hours; I have tried putting Kylon flat black over Kryon gloss white after waiting just a day - the results were not pretty.

My $0.02

 

[astronboy]

That was my thought exactly...

Thanks,
Ph

 

[lalligood]

Originally posted by Vanel
I wait at least 48 hours; I have tried putting Kylon flat black over Kryon gloss white after waiting just a day - the results were not pretty.

My $0.02

It depends on where you allow your painted parts to dry. Here in sunny, warm Florida where temperatures in the garage can easily reach 120 degrees F, I have had very good results waiting as little as 16 hours between taping off & painting colors.

I use Krylon exclusively. You really can recoat anytime and parts can be *lightly* handled after 1 hour. If you don't wait long enough or handle it too roughly, you can press fingerprints into the finish. Give it a couple of hours (I prefer waiting at least overnight) before any serious handling though.

One last thing: The curing agents in Krylon's flat paints are quite different than what is used in their gloss colors. The flat paint "grabs" much faster & aggressively. I tend to stay away from the flats...or at least not mix them with any other colors.

HTH,

 

[m85476585]

You probably can recoat any time, but it is a bad idea to mask areas off too early or the base color might peel off.

 

[rocketking]

I have had trouble in particular with the Krylon Clear Acrylic overspray- In particular, it turns yellow after less than a year's time. Any other's have a similar problem?

I allow a minimum of 24 hours drying time, more if preping for masking. I had one instance of the masking tape peeling the top color clear off. I understand impatience to finish a kit, but time is NOT an enemy at this point!

Numerous factors I believe affect the length of time required - Humidity is the principle factor I have found. Air temperature throughout the drying time also affect the 'cure' time and process. It still remains a matter of guesswork, but knowledge of the process certainly helps. Good Luck.

Glen

 

[RimfireJim]

Originally posted by rocketking
I have had trouble in particular with the Krylon Clear Acrylic overspray- In particular, it turns yellow after less than a year's time. Any other's have a similar problem?

I've avoided Krylon clear, based on what I read on rec.scale.models, and have used Rustoleum Clear and Future instead. Both can be applied over Krylon.
-Jim

 

[Stymye]

How long should I wait before i mask of the nosecone and spray it red?

Phread,why do you have to mask the nosecone , rather than paint it seperate?.. either way you can paint over a color with annother color anytime with krylon.

I typically wait 24 hrs, if you use a low tack tape you could tape it off even sooner.. the type of tape used makes a big waiting time difference as well.

 

[Cougar93]

Rustoleum works with Krylon? I've always heard you can't mix the two?

 

[astronboy]

Styme wrote: 'Phread,why do you have to mask the nosecone , rather than paint it seperate?.. '

Well, this is a Ranger, and the NC is a non seperating part of the upper section.

Anyway, I waited 48 hours, masked and topcoated the NC with with Massey Furgesun Red fromm Tractor Supply co. All went well, and the MF red is, well... red... red... RED!!

Thanks guys!!

 

[Rock_It]

.

 

[m85476585]

Originally posted by Cougar93
Rustoleum works with Krylon? I've always heard you can't mix the two?

From what I've seen you can't put Krylon over Rustoleum. Rustoleum over Krylon shouldn't be a problem.

 

[RimfireJim]

Originally posted by m85476585
From what I've seen you can't put Krylon over Rustoleum. Rustoleum over Krylon shouldn't be a problem.

Correctemundo. At least with all the colors I've used. I haven't tried the Painter's Touch version of Rustoleum. -Jim

 

[Mad Rocketeer]

I'm painting an Estes Stormcaster in a gloss black (tube) and copper (nose and fins) scheme that someone posted for their Estes Eliminator. I haven't decided whether to use the long name decal, but it might not go well color-wise. I definitely don't plan to use the little wizard guys, so the kids will probably get them.

Anyway, the Rustoleum has given me a couple of problems. For one, it tends to "spit" little drops along with the spray, and these leave spots where they land. I had to do an extra layer of paint in each color to cover that. Worse, it has a greater tendency than the Krylon clear coat to fade the gloss black. If it goes on too thick (extremely easy to do and hard to avoid, apparently), it fades the black so that it's not nearly as dark at that point, esecially in good light, and loses most or all of its shine. Also takes repainting, so the rocket is doubtless gaining a little weight, though not yet excessively. I've never had this or any other problem with Krylon clear coat. I've got some Future, but I haven't used it on anything yet. I like having a clear coat to protect the pigmented paint, so I may try one last time to get a gloss clear coat on the rocket. I guess I need to stand about 15 feet away and hope the wind makes just a little drift over and gently touch the rocket. Maybe then it won't fade. Sigh.

 

[Rock_It]

.

 

[astrowolf67]

EMRR www.rocketreviews.com has a nice paint compatibility chart in the tools section.

As far as masking for a different color top coat, I wait till the base coat no longer "smells". For rockets that have the nose permenantly mounted, and are a different color, I paint the nose by its self, masking off the shoulder, and then glue it into the already painted body tube.

 

[tennisace]

DO NOT use Rustoleum gray primer over Krylon whit (fusion). Resutls were disterbing.

 

[10fttall]

Resutls were disterbing.

You obviously didn't read the fine print:

WARNING! May cause computer keyboards to act funny!

 

[Mad Rocketeer]

Originally posted by Rock_It
You can put enamel based paints over laquers, but you can't put laquers over enamels. That's the way it works. For this discussion, polyurethanes can be treated as enamels as the same rule applies to then...polyurethane over laquer, but not the other way around.

The best rule though is if you're unsure, stick with the system. Krylon all the way through, rustoleum all the way through or whatever. That includes the primer, paint, and clear. This second partagraph is even more true when you get into automotive paints. You can have some real issues that cannot be fixed without stripping if you have an incompatibility with auto paints. On auto paints, if you start with PPG you must use PPG all the way through.

Good info. I hadn't read the can enough to realize that the Rustoleum was a lacquer. It smells pretty strongly too. Hmmm. Guess it's back to Krylon for me. It's always worked.

Originally posted by astrowolf67
EMRR www.rocketreviews.com has a nice paint compatibility chart in the tools section.

As far as masking for a different color top coat, I wait till the base coat no longer "smells". For rockets that have the nose permenantly mounted, and are a different color, I paint the nose by its self, masking off the shoulder, and then glue it into the already painted body tube.

I've never noticed that chart before. Great stuff!

Thanks.

 

[m85476585]

Originally posted by Mad Rocketeer
Good info. I hadn't read the can enough to realize that the Rustoleum was a lacquer. It smells pretty strongly too. Hmmm. Guess it's back to Krylon for me. It's always worked.

Actually most Rustoleum (painter's Touch) paints are enamels, but I suspect that certain specialty ones are lacquers, including florescent and metallic colors. I emailed Rustoleum to confirm my theory, but they never responded. If it doesn't say "enamel" on the back of the can, you can't be sure what it is.

Krylon paints on the other hand are all lacquers (at least all the "regular" ones. There might be some special ones that are different).

Dupli-color paints are lacquer unless they say "enamel" somewhere on the can.

Don't use Rustoleum (painter's touch) primer if you plan on using lacquers over it. It might be OK, but you will have to wait a week before you can paint over it.

Another way to tell if something is an enamel is if it has a recoat window, like recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours.

Are you using "painter's touch" type Rustoleum? You will get the best results if you do. "America's Finest"(?) is lower quality (and lower priced), and regular rustoleum is oil-based.

 

[Sheri]

Just my 2 cents, I use Krylon gloss colors and what Ive found best for clearcoat is the Testors Gloss Clearcoat spray. Works great to seal those decals, etc.... SHeri

 

[Mad Rocketeer]

Good info. I just bought two new cans of the Krylon clear coat gloss, and I'm back on familiar territory. I may try the Future in the near, well you know, future. I haven't tried the Testors because I usually just see tiny expensive cans, but I may try it on this recommendation.

I looked at Duplicolor paints in Auto Zone today. They had little 5 oz. cans for about $4.50 and larger 11 oz. cans for about $5.50. The little ones said something about auto and seemed to have more variety. The larger cans said something about vans, SUVs, and such and had some duplication of color names with the smaller cans. Any pointers on using these? Which to choose? I guess, obviously, one should use their primer and clear coat to keep it in the family, but what else? I read recently where someone had used an automotive red paint and really liked it. Always looking to try something new.

 

[Micromeister]

Phred: I use or have used just about every type and brand of paint on the market. My Standard answer to your specific question is:
If you can smell it, it isn't dry...leave it alone. Put your nose right next to the model, if you smell anything it's still outgassing vehilcle and/or thinners, leave it alone.
However, if your applying additional color coats which are all Krylon and carry the recoat anytime lable, the lable is correct and mean just that....at least for the Krylon line
Personally I will not buy or use any spraycan paint that does not clearly state recoat anytime on the lable. There are a couple exceptions to that Testors Dull coat and a couple of the Master paint line but for the most part I stick to that rule.

I will say again; I no longer Clear Coat my finished models. Finessit-II and Nu-finish are the only "shine and/or protective finishe "additives used. ALL Clear Coats yellow.
I have an Omage/cinaroc vehicle cloned in 1996, Painted with Krylon Gloss white, Finessit-II polished, then decaled with Silkscreened waterslide decals I made myself, These decals were Clear coated with krylon 1301 gloss clear before application. You should see them today, almost a sepia color yellow over the blue. The high titanium white is still as white as the day it was applied.