Tools I could really use...

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Need to not use part of my shop for winter 20' pontoon storage; then I could have room for a 3D printer, drill press and lathe. Got a nice bandsaw, scroll saw and planer. Just need to get that damn boat out of there :)
Hear me out here...

The pontoon boat has a flat deck, right? Plenty of space for a lathe, drill press, and 3D printer! OK, the lathe might be a little heavy, but everything else should be fine!
 
Appreciate the input.
We use conex boxes all the time at work for storage, the issue is long and narrow, as more stuff goes in the stuff nearer the rear get harder to get too or the box has to be emptied to get it out. A storage unit style roll-up door can be framed into the middle of one side and then you have access to either side. Most used conex boxes are not water tight, be prepared to build a roof on top as they have been known to leak. Make sure and pick the one you want, open and close the doors, look closely at the rubber seals around the doors, go inside close the doors and look for pinholes/daylight (easy to do as a container with no lights and the doors closed is about as dark as you can get). Check the floors, most are wood and may need a oil to restore the lost moisture if too dried out.
 
I thought about getting a Conex. 7 years ago until about 3 years ago they were 2 to 4 thousand. When I went to get one they quoted me $7000. No way.
They did take a huge jump....about the time covid hit and containers were getting scarce for shipping, now it might be cheaper to build an 8x40 shed.....
 
I need a set of tubular punches to cut rings and disks from matte board or cardboard. They would need an inside chamfer to cut centering rings, or an outside chamfer to cut disks. I could use pairs for BT-5, BT-20, and BT-50 (common motor mount sizes). These would make cutting centering rings for clusters a LOT easier.

What special tools are on your wish list?
Just be aware of any cutting tool, especially hole cutters with a smooth cutting edge, will have to sharpened and polished. If you have a bench grinder get a buffing wheel for it and some white jewelers rouge for the polishing. Stropping something like a hole punch will take forever to polish by hand.
 
I make hole cutters for softer materials on the stupid mini lathe about the same way as charge wells - aluminum hollow cylinder with the appropriate edge beveled. They work fine for paper, cardstock, foam, silicone rubber, etc. You don't really have to polish the edge for that kind of thing.

Oh yeah, I want a lathe that is less trouble than the stupid mini lathe (tm). Probably something like this: https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1236t/ - full gearhead with no change gears, 1.5" spindle bore, Taiwan made, and an actually useful bed length.
 
I thought about getting a Conex. 7 years ago until about 3 years ago they were 2 to 4 thousand. When I went to get one they quoted me $7000. No way.
lot better than a 40-foot building.
 
lot better than a 40-foot building.

Define better.

They do nothing to increase property values, and they look absolutely horrible.

They're a great place for burrowing animals and vermin to live under. They get so hot inside during the summer months that whatever you are storing in them will degrade due to the heat.

And upgrading them to counteract these issues is throwing good money after bad.

There's a lot of pristine beautiful country out here in our area... the latest trend is Conex buildings and mountain sized piles of used tires appearing. :facepalm:
 
Define better.

They do nothing to increase property values, and they look absolutely horrible.

They're a great place for burrowing animals and vermin to live under. They get so hot inside during the summer months that whatever you are storing in them will degrade due to the heat.

And upgrading them to counteract these issues is throwing good money after bad.

There's a lot of pristine beautiful country out here in our area... the latest trend is Conex buildings and mountain sized piles of used tires appearing. :facepalm:
I thought in the context the range of $4-7k was a lot better than the built cost of a similarly constructed 40-ft building.
 
I thought in the context the range of $4-7k was a lot better than the built cost of a similarly constructed 40-ft building.
I priced buildings- 12x36 foot is about 9-9.5k. An 8x40 high cub connex is 6200.
 
No, it's reality. It's a real estate thing.... talk to your agent, and your neighbors.
One of my neighbors has a Conex box out by the woodpile. Another has a material storage rack behind his loafing shed. The third stores his construction equipment out back. I'm thoroughly unconcerned, because we're all zoned Rural Agricultural and none of us are closer than 600ft to each other.
 
I priced buildings- 12x36 foot is about 9-9.5k. An 8x40 high cub connex is 6200.
3K might be worth having enough space inside for workbenches/machinery on both sides and still have room for a walkway down the middle. Does the price for the 40' conex include the extra doors etc. as mentioned by @rharshberger? If not, the price difference might be even less.
 
No, it's reality. It's a real estate thing.... talk to your agent, and your neighbors.
My neightbors all have them and my farm is valued at 60k more than I paid for it 8 year Al’s ago. I think it depends on what you are looking for. Obvious, it is not as important with agriculture.
 
3K might be worth having enough space inside for workbenches/machinery on both sides and still have room for a walkway down the middle. Does the price for the 40' conex include the extra doors etc. as mentioned by @rharshberger? If not, the price difference might be even less.

I don’t need extra doors. I just need storage for launch pads.
 
One of my neighbors has a Conex box out by the woodpile. Another has a material storage rack behind his loafing shed. The third stores his construction equipment out back. I'm thoroughly unconcerned, because we're all zoned Rural Agricultural and none of us are closer than 600ft to each other.

Same here. My agriculturally zoned land value has skyrocketed.
 
I make hole cutters for softer materials on the stupid mini lathe about the same way as charge wells - aluminum hollow cylinder with the appropriate edge beveled. They work fine for paper, cardstock, foam, silicone rubber, etc. You don't really have to polish the edge for that kind of thing.

Oh yeah, I want a lathe that is less trouble than the stupid mini lathe (tm). Probably something like this: https://www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-1236t/ - full gearhead with no change gears, 1.5" spindle bore, Taiwan made, and an actually useful bed length.
If you buy a decent lathe you will never regret it. Quick-change toolpost and DRO is a must. Taiwanese ones are really good but you will pay for the privilege. If you want precision it is the way to go. If you are not chasing the micron fairies the Chinese ones might be better value for you. With a big lathe, say 1m between centers, the bed and headstock are usually quite rigid allowing for serious cuts without chatter.

I have 1m between centres, 40mm hollow spindle, DRO, QC toolpost, geared head, coolant, and will swing about 380mm diameter before I have to think about removing the gap in the bed. So nice to work on.
 
One set of tools I would recommend for anyone into tinkering or fixing stuff is a set from Chapman Manufacturing:
https://chapmanmfg.com/Chapman.png
Dad got me a set when I was a teenager back in the 70's. I still have it but added a Master Set to it a few years ago. Great for getting into tight spaces where other tools won't go.

I have also started a tradition of presenting my interns with one of these sets when they complete their one-year internship with us.
 
Ridgid bench top sander. It has a belt and spindle sander. And every time I find one priced cheap, it's over 60 miles away.
 
USB Power Measuring Dongle
https://www.ebay.com/itm/17547139100071u81CRMUJL._SL1500_.jpg

817dipf7FzL._SL1500_.jpg

Really useful for figuring out what something is drawing on a USB port. Also tallies amount of Ah transferred. Useful is charging batteries etc.

I have a regular USB version that I have found very handy. Looking at upgrading to the USB-C version.
 
Shop tools I would like to have.
A laser cutter w/300x300 cutting bed (minimum), capable of slicing through 1/4" birch ply in 5 passes or less.
A 4-axis CNC Mill w/ 24" stock capacity.
a 3-axis CNC cutter with a 36"x36" cutting bed.
A Voron 2.3 or Prusa XL (either one fully dressed)
A wood lathe and a metalworking lathe
A band saw, like the Delta 28-400, Rikon 10-3061 or Grizzly G0513X2BF.
A 5/8" floor mounted Drill press, like a Delta, Wen or Jet.
A 14" table saw, like a DELTA 36-790 RT40

Last but not least a basement or work shop w/12' ceiling, fully insulted, HVAC and full shop dust collection.
I'm not asking for much....
 
Shop tools I would like to have.
A laser cutter w/300x300 cutting bed (minimum), capable of slicing through 1/4" birch ply in 5 passes or less.
A 4-axis CNC Mill w/ 24" stock capacity.
a 3-axis CNC cutter with a 36"x36" cutting bed.
A Voron 2.3 or Prusa XL (either one fully dressed)
A wood lathe and a metalworking lathe
A band saw, like the Delta 28-400, Rikon 10-3061 or Grizzly G0513X2BF.
A 5/8" floor mounted Drill press, like a Delta, Wen or Jet.
A 14" table saw, like a DELTA 36-790 RT40

Last but not least a basement or work shop w/12' ceiling, fully insulted, HVAC and full shop dust collection.
I'm not asking for much....
Just 30+ years of collecting the stuff for that or several 100K dollars...
 
(Space in the garage for the drill press, table saw, bench grinders, and lathe I already own, but that's not a "tool" really. Also not really a "tool", the habit of getting my ass off the couch and doing stuff.)

Laser cutter.

Some stuff I could have, but am too cheap shy about spending money to go buy:
  • Two blade fly cutter (pointless until I have room for the drill press). And please, there's no need to restart the fly cutter safety debate.
  • Belt sander. The kind you stand in front of, not the kind for racing.
  • Decent (I don't need really good) oscilloscope, probably a portable USB type that I can use with my tablet.
 
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