The "infamous" Scotty Dog

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Scotty Dog

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Ok, so the cats out of the bag..I came back after being gone and for MY reasons came back under a new name. So, like it or not..Ive been posting a build under the user name "infamous" and the "rocket build" is my thread. I will continue the build but will be posting it under my old user name "Scotty Dog" https://www.rocketryforum.com/threads/rocket-build.151302/ Any issues PM me..dont trash the site. Later Scotty Dog
 
Glad to see you are back Scotty. I always liked your out of the box thinking on your scratch builds. I used to have a different screen name too but thats another story...welcome back!
 
Glad to see you are back Scotty. I always liked your out of the box thinking on your scratch builds. I used to have a different screen name too but thats another story...welcome back!
Thanks..I got that one scratcher (rocket build)going on now. I think what I need to do or should do is FINISH the other half dozen scratchers I started. LOL. I was out in the shed getting some supplies and it was like, look at all this rocket stuff and look at all those half built rockets. I start on one and get an idea for another and then the process just keeps repeating itself. Crazy!
 

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Ohhhhhhh.....I prolly got little over 1/2 dozen scratchers like that too. It was good catching up the other day. Glad you're back. It was gettin' lonely in here.
 
Ohhhhhhh.....I prolly got little over 1/2 dozen scratchers like that too. It was good catching up the other day. Glad you're back. It was gettin' lonely in here.
Yes, it was most defiantly good catching up with you Mr. Byrum. I was glad to see you are still here. Hey, how about a rocket called "Mojo" for apparent reasons ? ..LOL. P.S. I remember you had a thread started about building a rocket using many reducers/ adapters . I actually ordered a bunch of balsa reducers because of that thread..maybe its time for me to haul them out of the box and use them. No, I haven't used my lathe yet..sad.
 
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Glad to see you also. I see there are a few others besides me that have gone missing. I guess as they say "life happens ".
 
More detail work. Half bt 5 and half an NC. I'm not going with the 55 to 50 CRs on top tube. I have something different up my sleeve for that. I'll use the small washers (?) On the transition.
 

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Good to have you back, Scotty.
Hope to see you in Amesbury or Berwick this season.
I hope to be there also. One of and mostly the main reason I haven't been to any of the launches, is my back. Im looking at an operation end of month.Then the recovery and then ya da ya da... Maybe by June ,July Ill be good to go for launch. I miss the launches. Its a haul for me but worth it. I always have a great time. You, Tony pv,(always enjoyed seeing his rockets and what his lasted build was) the guy (sorry ) that does it big on Halloween ,Big Dan isn't around , the taxi man..Guy Wad (?) the guy with the coffee cup rockets, and all the rest that I cant recall their names.The hot dogs,ect. And those big HPs, ya baby! I was there for many of Jim Flis anniversaries parties . I was there when they launched that huge "Tres". Yup, I have a lot of good memories . Only went to Maine once.
 
Coming into it. One thing I'm going to do is use white primer and no pigment. I'll shoot a coat of clear over the primer. Maybe a semi gloss. Just enough so decals lay down. Some of the other details I'll wait till after the clear coat and then put them on. That way I can pigment them and not have to deal with masking little bitty parts. I have some tweaking to do here and there. The MIR (Mass Inclusion Reactor) on the rudder fin is just tacked for the picture. As is the tubes in the tube bundle . Ill pigment them separately and then put them on. Ill add a few things to the bottom and I still have a couple ideas to detail out the top section. Get r done!
 

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Pics. My old rocket buddy."Kodiac" R.I.P. BUDDY !
 

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OK, now there are multiple design details I plan to steal. I love the, uh, "Mass Inclusion Reactor". How'd you cut those clean holes in the BT?
 
OK, now there are multiple design details I plan to steal. I love the, uh, "Mass Inclusion Reactor". How'd you cut those clean holes in the BT?
I used a paper punch. I also have a leather punch with a wheel on it that has different size punches. The leather punch is limited on what I can punch because of the wheel cant fit in small BTs. But it works great on card stock/paper,ect.I used it to punch holes in balsa.
Steal away brother..its all good. If I can help a master builder out like you, its gratifying to me.
 

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You and your killer attack on nifty aesthetics there my friend. It's always a blast looking at your concepts.
NOW...About that primer issue. What, or rather, why do you feel the primer is causing decal issues? Is it because the primer is rough on the dried surface? You DO sand or steel wool your primed surfaces before painting, right? Primer will get as smooth as glass if you sand or wool it.
 
What, or rather, why do you feel the primer is causing decal issues? Is it because the primer is rough on the dried surface? You DO sand or steel wool your primed surfaces before painting, right? Primer will get as smooth as glass if you sand or wool it.
Ya, I guess, well, you are correct. Yes I do sand primer and it does polish up nice and smooth. IDK, guess I was thinking out loud, thinking maybe it would better if the primer was sealed. Now , rethinking it, why not decal directly on the primer then seal it all. I just dont want to get a thick layer of pigments on it. I have a few other details that having to much pigment will take the edge off.
 
Now , rethinking it, why not decal directly on the primer then seal it all.
Well, even if you sand it up smooth, I wouldn't think you could get the kind of gloss that would be a good surface for decaling. Also, since primer is porous, all the water from the decals could very well get through to the paper underneath.

Decals on primer seems like a bad idea to me.
 
Another detailing method . I took a Centuri BT (?) that's just a tad bigger than a BT 50. Punch some holes in it and thru some shim stock between the 2 and bazinga. Then one could also use the punch outs for more detail. And they conform to the BT. This is just for illustration purpose.
 

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Here another project I used the punch on. Maybe I'll finish this scratcher someday and the ones LOL..
 

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Well, even if you sand it up smooth, I wouldn't think you could get the kind of gloss that would be a good surface for decaling. Also, since primer is porous, all the water from the decals could very well get through to the paper underneath.

Decals on primer seems like a bad idea to me.
Dont have my scale model finish book in front of me, but I'll just say, super high gloss on small models is not realistic. Not that mines is this supreme scale repro. You have to put it in scale..an HO train viewed at 4 ft is egivelent to 350 in full size. You might see a small sun spot shine at that distance, but not the whole thing. Look into it. Ive used semi on a lot of my scratchers, Dull off makes them look more realistic to me. And it does hide imperfections. I do have some real glossy ones too. My Fliskit Duces Wild and the Fliskit Rock Star shine on baby ! Ps phone typing sorry for errors.
 
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Maybe it depends on the primer, but I think you ought to be able to decal over it just fine, especially if you put a little clear over it and use a bit of SolvaSet on the decal. I've used 2-part TiO2 epoxy primers (old K&B and now KlassKote) forever on contest models, in part because it will polish to mirror smoothness; you can use an extremely thin layer of paint and not worry if you wet-sand into the primer. Some 1-part primers are not waterproof though so YMMV. +1 on non-gloss making models look larger...also the model RR folks often lighten up the darker colors since atmospheric haze changes the way things look at a distance.
 
Maybe it depends on the primer, but I think you ought to be able to decal over it just fine, especially if you put a little clear over it and use a bit of SolvaSet on the decal. I've used 2-part TiO2 epoxy primers (old K&B and now KlassKote) forever on contest models, in part because it will polish to mirror smoothness; you can use an extremely thin layer of paint and not worry if you wet-sand into the primer. Some 1-part primers are not waterproof though so YMMV. +1 on non-gloss making models look larger...also the model RR folks often lighten up the darker colors since atmospheric haze changes the way things look at a distance.
Ive wet sanded many rockets with just auto primer on them. There's not enough water under a decal to worry about it soaking thru the primer and then soaking into the BT enough to affect it.. I mean come on here. Apply decal wipe with soft rag and its just about dry instantly. I bet I could apply a decal to a good grade plain BT , the ones that have the sheen to them (don't know what it is, glasslen ?) and not worry about it. There is such a thing as over thinking. Throw your hat over the fence and give it a try..thats how I roll.
 
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