The Avionics Bay Thread...Post your Photos!

[g.pitts]

A few photos of my progress to-date on an electronics bay build for an L3 attempt this Spring (COVID-19 permitting). The rocket is an Ultimate Wildman, so I have tons of room.

View showing the back side of sled, showing GoPro Hero9 and two-part battery pack that snugs-up against the sled, housing two LiPOs. PCB on bulkhead is simply there to wire up to the terminal blocks for primary and redundant charges for the main parachute.


Better view of top bulkhead. Epoxy is securing the terminal blocks (they're soldered into the PCB, but...) and also covering the wires soldered here that come from the terminal blocks on the electronics bay PCB. I'm using large Rocket Junkies charge canisters for the main parachute deployment.


Bottom half of the electronics bay main PCB. 3W 1.6Ω resistors with pulse rating are used as a "just in case" protection for altimeter outputs.


Bulkhead for the drogue side of the electronics bay. I designed these charge canisters and had them fabricated. They can hold a LOT of BP.


Window for GoPro camera has been epoxied around its perimeter. Finally I can justify the band clamp I bought!


Inside view of the electronics bay coupler showing the retention ring for the window assembly.


Last, but not least... the tracker mount for the nosecone. I gotta find this bird!

 

[Voyager1]

A few photos of my progress to-date on an electronics bay build for an L3 attempt this Spring (COVID-19 permitting). The rocket is an Ultimate Wildman, so I have tons of room.

View showing the back side of sled, showing GoPro Hero9 and two-part battery pack that snugs-up against the sled, housing two LiPOs. PCB on bulkhead is simply there to wire up to the terminal blocks for primary and redundant charges for the main parachute.
View attachment 444381

Better view of top bulkhead. Epoxy is securing the terminal blocks (they're soldered into the PCB, but...) and also covering the wires soldered here that come from the terminal blocks on the electronics bay PCB. I'm using large Rocket Junkies charge canisters for the main parachute deployment.
View attachment 444384

Bottom half of the electronics bay main PCB. 3W 1.6Ω resistors with pulse rating are used as a "just in case" protection for altimeter outputs.
View attachment 444385

Bulkhead for the drogue side of the electronics bay. I designed these charge canisters and had them fabricated. They can hold a LOT of BP.
View attachment 444386

Window for GoPro camera has been epoxied around its perimeter. Finally I can justify the band clamp I bought!
View attachment 444387

Inside view of the electronics bay coupler showing the retention ring for the window assembly.
View attachment 444388

Last, but not least... the tracker mount for the nosecone. I gotta find this bird!
View attachment 444391

Nice evolution here. Where did you get the GoPro window?

 

[g.pitts]

Nice evolution here. Where did you get the GoPro window?

Thanks! I got the sapphire window from Guild Optics. I picked a size that they had in inventory, which was 1.995" x 0.094". I designed the window mount and retention assembly, and had it (and the large charge canisters) fabricated by Xometry.

 

[Sluggo]

like this thread. I'm a beginner and I'm wondering about the U-bolts and kevlar cord..... What does the kevlar line connect to.?? Or is it just a 'pull tag' to get it out of a tube.??

I'd like to see some pictures that depict how these attach to the rocket. I'm guessing they go into the nose cone. Is the U-bolt used to attach a shock cord and/or a parachute.

I'm soon to get a gps finder and I haven't quite figured out how to neatly get it into the nose and rig the shock cord and chute. I understand the sled and tube but securing it in the nose cone.... I'm lost.

 

[g.pitts]

like this thread. I'm a beginner and I'm wondering about the U-bolts and kevlar cord..... What does the kevlar line connect to.?? Or is it just a 'pull tag' to get it out of a tube.??

I'd like to see some pictures that depict how these attach to the rocket. I'm guessing they go into the nose cone. Is the U-bolt used to attach a shock cord and/or a parachute.

I'm soon to get a gps finder and I haven't quite figured out how to neatly get it into the nose and rig the shock cord and chute. I understand the sled and tube but securing it in the nose cone.... I'm lost.

There are a lot of posts in this thread. Which one are you referring to with your questions?

 

[Sluggo]

There are a lot of posts in this thread. Which one are you referring to with your questions?

Thanks g. pitts. ... I think I found what I need to know in a John Coker video. He turns a nose cone into a nice neat payload bay that takes a sled. At this point, looking at my rockets, the challenge is different sized rings that I'll need. If you go to the 9 minute mark of this video it shows what I want to do. Sizing is an issue for me. I guess I'll give Apogee a call and maybe they can hook me up with the rings and discs that I'll need.

I've attached pictures of 2 nose cones. Is it safe enough to cut the base off and be left with 1 and an eighth inch of shoulder that goes into the main body tube.?? Thanks for any tips and help.
Plastic Nose Cone Mods (jcrocket.com)

 

[bobbyg23]

Here is a bay I just got from a friend. Fits a LOC 5.5" rocket. It is apogee deploy and I will use a jolly logic for main deployment. 300mah 3 cell lipo for power. I will install a screw switch also for arming. You could get different beds for different altimeters. 54mm opening so your long motors can fit without obstruction.

 

[Nytrunner]

Is it safe enough to cut the base off and be left with 1 and an eighth inch of shoulder that goes into the main body tube.?? Thanks for any tips and help.

Depends

If its dual deploy, your nose should be shear pinned, and the short shoulder won't matter.

If its single deploy, you'll need to make sure the fit isn't too loose so it can't cock in the tube. It should be ok for general flying

 

[Sluggo]

Thans Nyt ..... There was a day when I had the tools to build anything made with wood. Not so much these days, sadly so.

Can anyone tell me where I can have custom rings made.??

 

[Nytrunner]

Thans Nyt ..... There was a day when I had the tools to build anything made with wood. Not so much these days, sadly so.

Can anyone tell me where I can have custom rings made.??

Wingarcher on the forum (aka Nat at Upscale CNC) has cut rings for me.

I know there's a couple more out there, but he's 1st guy to spring to mind

 

[g.pitts]

Wingarcher on the forum (aka Nat at Upscale CNC) has cut rings for me.

I know there's a couple more out there, but he's 1st guy to spring to mind

+1 for Nat. He's done great work on my custom pieces.

 

[Jay Dub 4009]

Over the course of the last 2 and a half weeks or so I went all out and fully modeled the HED avionics bay of my new 3” black fly in fusion. Also designed a custom sled that incorporates my favorite parts....doghouse rocketry charge wells, featherweight gps, quantum altimeter, badass rocketry gps sled and labrat pull pin switch. Then printed all parts on the Prusa i3s+ I got in December. Took several iterations for everything to fit perfectly and I think it will serve the black fly well. Was a good way to start learning fusion.

 

[OverTheTop]

Looks great .

Is that pull-pin metal, and if it is what chances are there of it shorting something on the back of the altimeter PCA?

BTW, I also just noticed that the transistors on that altimeter that are standing vertical have no support and can vibrate, causing the leads to break where they solder to the PCB. I would recommend a small squirt of silicone RTV to support them to the PCB. Make sure you use the non-corrosive one. If it smells like vinegar don't use it.

 

[Jay Dub 4009]

Looks great .

Is that pull-pin metal, and if it is what chances are there of it shorting something on the back of the altimeter PCA?

BTW, I also just noticed that the transistors on that altimeter that are standing vertical have no support and can vibrate, causing the leads to break where they solder to the PCB. I would recommend a small squirt of silicone RTV to support them to the PCB. Make sure you use the non-corrosive one. If it smells like vinegar don't use it.

Good questions for sure...I do have electronics grade silicone for supporting those pieces I just put that quantum together and need to give it a scrub with isopropyl and a tooth brush then I will do that just haven’t got to it yet.

The pull pin is metal, but I designed the altimeter pads to be raised enough to give it ~.20 thousands or so clearance so it def has plenty of gap...but good concerns thanks a bunch!

 

[OverTheTop]

The pull pin is metal, but I designed the altimeter pads to be raised enough to give it ~.20 thousands or so clearance so it def has plenty of gap...but good concerns thanks a bunch!

Does that include when you are inserting or removing the pin?

 

[DaHabes]

What material are your all-threads (with the tracker in the AV-Bay)?

 

[g.pitts]

Good questions for sure...I do have electronics grade silicone for supporting those pieces I just put that quantum together and need to give it a scrub with isopropyl and a tooth brush then I will do that just haven’t got to it yet.

The pull pin is metal, but I designed the altimeter pads to be raised enough to give it ~.20 thousands or so clearance so it def has plenty of gap...but good concerns thanks a bunch!

Just a suggestion. You could 3D print an insulating guide (think of a structure like a relatively small diameter drinking straw) underneath your altimeter exiting right at your snap switch. That would be extra insurance against the possibility of a short occuring on the pad or in the prep area.

 

[Hobie1dog]

Thanks for all the pictures everyone

 

[Jay Dub 4009]

Does that include when you are inserting or removing the pin?

Yes it has quite a big gap for clearance...but now I’ll take a better look at it and analyze how accurate I am with inserting and removing the pin to gauge if I need to rethink this...and yes gpitts a simple sleeve would be easy.

Edit: totally over thinking this...easiest and most effective fix is to just insert the pin from the other direction !!

Thanks again all for suggestions

 

[OverTheTop]

Edit: totally over thinking this...easiest and most effective fix is to just insert the pin from the other direction !!

I had wondered if that was possible.

..and yes gpitts a simple sleeve would be easy.

I had also thought of that but was trying to get you thinking. Also, with 3D printing I like to think about what I can leave out, since 3D printing gives you that luxury to reduce mass. Maybe a series of rings rather than a full sleeve?

Thanks again all for suggestions

No worries .

 

[BSNW]

After seeing all these designs on this thread, and taking into consideration that I like making the avionics bay almost as much as the rocket itself, I really really wish I had a 3D printer.....let me rephrase, I really wish I had the space for one. We live in an apartment and like things tidy and not too cluttered, so a 3D printer is just not in the plan now.....so sad.

LOVE these designs!
Andrew

 

[BSNW]

Here is a bay I just got from a friend. Fits a LOC 5.5" rocket. It is apogee deploy and I will use a jolly logic for main deployment. 300mah 3 cell lipo for power. I will install a screw switch also for arming. You could get different beds for different altimeters. 54mm opening so your long motors can fit without obstruction. View attachment 447351View attachment 447352View attachment 447353View attachment 447354View attachment 447355

Any way of contacting Sky Dancer Rocketry other than with FaceBook? I would like to order one of these bays for a LOC 5.5" tube and RRC2+ if so, please private message me.
Thanks
Andrew

 

[JohnCoker]

After seeing all these designs on this thread, and taking into consideration that I like making the avionics bay almost as much as the rocket itself, I really really wish I had a 3D printer.....let me rephrase, I really wish I had the space for one. We live in an apartment and like things tidy and not too cluttered, so a 3D printer is just not in the plan now.....so sad.

Don't forget that you can get stuff printed by third-party services. I used ShapeWays before I bought my first 3D printer.

 

[JohnCoker]

Here's a simple bay for a 54mm rocket with just an EasyMega.
https://a360.co/3tjPkPd

 

[grouch]

Any way of contacting Sky Dancer Rocketry other than with FaceBook? I would like to order one of these bays for a LOC 5.5" tube and RRC2+ if so, please private message me.
Thanks
Andrew

You can email him at [email protected]

 

[Terry Dancer]

Any way of contacting Sky Dancer Rocketry other than with FaceBook? I would like to order one of these bays for a LOC 5.5" tube and RRC2+ if so, please private message me.
Thanks
Andrew

That’s me! I’ll PM you

 

[thzero]

My av-bay for a BT70 using a Eggtimer Quantum; an easily be swapped out for a Featherweight Raven. Also can easily swap out the bulkheads to run other rockets of similar size such as my 2.63" LOC rockets.

 

[BSNW]

My av-bay for a BT70 using a Eggtimer Quantum; an easily be swapped out for a Featherweight Raven. Also can easily swap out the bulkheads to run other rockets of similar size such as my 2.63" LOC rockets.

View attachment 464479

That is incredible.....wow, beautiful! I see how 3D printing has impacted the avionics bay world in a positive way. Very nice work!
Andrew

 

[tokind]

<— Click for gallery

I shielded this E-Bay with silver-impregnated cloth inside and on the caps. There are ground tabs to connect the fabric shield throughout. The deployment charge wells are something I mean to get back to one of these days. The e-matches thread through to the inside, where they are sealed with silicon tape and a compression nut. The intention is to use smokeless powder and keep it under compression for complete combustion. The Cap includes an o-ring and is secured with wrap of Mylar tape.

 

[Troy3003]

Here is my SMT Designs bay for a 98mm. Just started putting it together but I like the design so far. Battery holders are pretty handy too.