That Mongoose 29

The Rocketry Forum

Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
Hi Gents
Long time no post. After my terrible horrible no-good day at LDRS 36 I am finally back at it. I will have my Mongoose 29 finished and will fly it at this coming Rocstock on everything from a G80 to an I205...unless... I have an Eggfinder in the nose and an Eggtimer Quantum in the coupler. I found Cris Erving at LDRS an he just so happened to have the exact same bird with the same electronics to fly. I took pictures of all of his attachments and I am building my own bird accordingly, with a couple of exceptions. I chose to overengineer the mount for the Eggtimer.
Here is the CAD
Mongoose 29 Eggfinder and battery on sled with wiring.jpgMongoose 29 Eggfinder and battery on sled.jpg
and here is the actual purple fitting 3D printed from Shapeways.com
IMG_4891.jpgIMG_4892.jpg

Funny how reality looks just like CAD.

The other exception is this. I don't know how Cris attached the nose to the payload to the coupler to the sustainer.

Here is what I propose. I want to have the nose be just a slip fit into the payload with adequate venting to prevent drag separation (on an I205). I also want to use one 2-56 nylon screw per joint to attach the payload to the coupler to the sustainer like this.
Mongoose 29 Oblique Front.jpg

What do you think of the slip fit nose and what do you think of the nylon screw attachments?

I have a bit of time before I commit. I am going to paint the green stuff you see in the image and take my time. Then I will drill vent holes and nylon screw attachments.

Thanks
Tom
 

CoyoteNumber2

Original San Diego High Power Rocketry
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
707
Reaction score
200
That's fantastic. Estimated altitude on the I205?
 

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
7800 feet and Mach 1.15. Of course I am always more interested the the Mach number. After I get comfortable with my electronics (I've not been successful yet) with this rocket I will build a 38mm min diameter. I still have lots of 38mm motors I bought in anticipation of flying my Go Devil 38 lots of times at LDRS. I even have a CTI 6XL case still loaded with the max impulse it can carry. All I have left of my Go Devil is the last 12 inches. I have essentially a well made fin can 10 inches long.
 

captbk

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2017
Messages
356
Reaction score
64
Location
Monkey Island
Sounds like you need another GD Tom. They can take anything you stuff em. I think you would be OK with one nylon pin per joint. I've fly my
GD 38 with one pin all the time. Good luck with the mongoose. (wish I didn't sell mine)
 

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
Here are some gratuitous images from my CAD model.
Mongoose 29 Oblique Horizontal cutaway.jpgMongoose 29 Altimeter Battery and Ejection Charges.jpgMongoose 29 Oblique Minus Body and Payload Bay.jpgMongoose 29 Oblique Vertical cutaway.jpg
 

Crash-n-Burn

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2014
Messages
379
Reaction score
1
Keep this up and you'll force me to build mine. Liking your work so far!
 

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
I soldered my Eggtimer and Eggfinder myself like everyone else. Then I took my micrometer and measured every feature in them and built the CAD model myself.
 

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
I finished painting. I also added a clear coat. That makes the carbon tube really pop. Prior to that the tubing has a satin finish. When you clear coat it you get that sense of depth we are used to with carbon parts. ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1506185659.012095.jpg
This next photo is prior to the clear coat. You can see the satin look of the tubing. It also shows off my paint job which was inspired by the image shown on the Madcow website.
ImageUploadedByRocketry Forum1506185684.005577.jpg

Incidentally, I wanted to do the cool swoopy stripe but I found using a printed template difficult. I had to freehand the edges and then adjust the lumpy borders by scraping paint off with an exacting knife afterwards. Does anybody know how to do this well?

Tom
 

crossfire

Lifetime Supporter
TRF Lifetime Supporter
Joined
Jan 16, 2011
Messages
4,907
Reaction score
686
I finished painting. I also added a clear coat. That makes the carbon tube really pop. Prior to that the tubing has a satin finish. When you clear coat it you get that sense of depth we are used to with carbon parts. View attachment 328658
This next photo is prior to the clear coat. You can see the satin look of the tubing. It also shows off my paint job which was inspired by the image shown on the Madcow website.
View attachment 328659

Incidentally, I wanted to do the cool swoopy stripe but I found using a printed template difficult. I had to freehand the edges and then adjust the lumpy borders by scraping paint off with an exacting knife afterwards. Does anybody know how to do this well?

Tom
Now you need the mongoose name on it. Very nice build you did there.
 

TomSmith58

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 15, 2013
Messages
348
Reaction score
2
Oops. That would have been better before I clear coated. Thanks for reminding me. I just ordered it. Sticker Shock has stickers for a Mongoose at any size and in a variety of colors (plug plug). They even have it in Flourescent green. They made it so easy for me to spend my money!😉
 

Latest posts

Top