I have never found a #1 handle that would securely hold a blade. I have easily had a half-dozen and some are so bad that I need to tighten the blade every five minutes. Others are so loose I need to place a piece of tape onto the blade tang. And I'm talking about the higher quality handles here, not the no-name crap that has become available in recent years. I won't even begin to talk about how bad those handles are.
I find the #1 design to be just slightly too thin, too short, and too light for my tastes anyways, so when I got back into heavy modeling last year, I went out and purchased a whole bunch of higher-end commercial handles in hopes that I would find one that I liked. Some of them were indeed quite nice, but none of them felt "just right" in my hand.
I only got the handles when I went looking for replacement blades. I purchased a 100-pack some 25 years ago and finally went through them all. Turns out that the retailer who had the best selection/prices on blades also had the nice handles. I got blades from all the current major manufacturers and none of them compare to my blades from 25 years ago. It's a good thing I saved all my old, beat-up blades, because these are the ones I have been putting in my fixed-blade handles.
I've had just the opposite experience, can't really call it a problem. Once I finger tighten a #11 or #16 in a #1 handle (anyones) they are a BEAR to get out or loosen up. Just recently I snapped off a #16 blade I was using to pry out some Oak I was hollowing. While trying to remove the shank for the #1 X-Acto handle I split the aluminum collar trying to back it off. Replaced it with one from the old spare parts drawer and we're back in business. Most of my #1 & #2 X-Acto handles were purchased back the the early 70's and are still working hard today.
One of the things I don't really enjoy about most hobby knife handles is the Black aluminum Oxide we get (Rub off) while working with them. I've for the most part solved that with a quick clear coat on the collars and coating the shafts with a layer, two or three (if you don't like the diameter add more layers to fit your hand) of Various adhesive backed color & clear Vinyls. Sure helps keep the fingers and Thumb crease clearer
I purchased 100pks of both #11 and #16 X-acto blades in the 90's...I've still got about 94 #11 & 97 #16...how you ask? Because I strop my knife blades at least 10 strokes per side each and every time I pick up the knife. because of this practice, I'm still using a razor shape blades installed in the handles in the 90's. Unless I snap a blade doing something I know is wrong (ie Hollowing out Oak mold plug).. I just haven't had to change blades. Spare #2, #3, & #24's same deal. If we keep them shape (20 strokes on a rouge coated strop takes all of 30 seconds)....blades last indefinitely.
Minor broken tip can be repaired by carefully grinding or filing off from the blade back.
Factory edge blades may be fairly cheap but out of the package they are only Wire factory edge shape...NOT razor sharp. As we knock off the micro wire filings the blade dulls very quickly.
As a side note: Sharpening Stones are ONLY used to remove very bad Chips or nicks in the blade usually caused by Misuse... even the finest Arkansas wet stones remove way to much "Tempered Blade Material" litterally grinding down the tempered part of the blade to a point it will no longer hold a keen edge.
I have several folding and sheath knifes that have NEVER been on a stone since purchase. My Stropped only Buck Loc-back knife has often substituded for a straight razor out of the trail. Yeap I carried two different Strops in my backback one for knifes and One for Axes and other impliments.
Once we learn how to sharpen and strop, replacement blades for our Hobby knifes become almost unnecessary.
If you think your blade is shape; Try cutting an facial tissue layed across the fingers held only by your thumb. If you can't make a clean NO tear slice between the fingers the blade really is not razor sharp.
Strops can be just about any old REAL leather strip (flesh side) rough side UP Old belt, piece of shoe etc. rubbed well with a jewelers rouge cake that can be found at any Leatherwork or industrial supply.