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Woody's Workshop

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When sanding the epoxy fillets on my V2 I got a little too much on the tail cone.
Too much in a couple places to fill with primer.
I don't think TiteBond would be right product to use here.
And epoxy is much harder than the plastic tail cone, making a bigger problem when sanding.
Has anyone used Tamiya's 87053 Basic Gray putty?
Or the 87095 White putty before?
According to the descriptions, white seams to be more versatile and can be thinned.
I doubt I would need to thin it here though.
Bondo is too coarse for this application and red lacquer putty is too soft.
 

Steve Shannon

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When sanding the epoxy fillets on my V2 I got a little too much on the tail cone.
Too much in a couple places to fill with primer.
I don't think TiteBond would be right product to use here.
And epoxy is much harder than the plastic tail cone, making a bigger problem when sanding.
Has anyone used Tamiya's 87053 Basic Gray putty?
Or the 87095 White putty before?
According to the descriptions, white seams to be more versatile and can be thinned.
I doubt I would need to thin it here though.
Bondo is too coarse for this application and red lacquer putty is too soft.
When you say bondo is too coarse I wonder if you're referring to that which has glass fibers integrated. I buy generic lightweight body filler, which doesn't have fibers, in the gallon cans. It can be applied as thin as I like and finished as smooth as I need. Once sanded smooth it can be painted to a high gloss.

Talc in epoxy can be used also.
 

rharshberger

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While I have not used the Tamiya products they are similar to the Squadron red and green putties, which work very well for filling minor imperfections that are to bug for primer fill.
 

bill2654

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TheTellurian

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You can make your own bondo by blending talc or baby powder [ not the corn starch type!] with epoxy. The more talc added the softer the mix but also the weaker. Try 50-50 as a test batch and if its too hard add more talc to the next one till it comes out as desired.


Richard
 

Micromeister

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Woody:
To repair sanding scratches, dents, holes and such in your Styrene Plastic tailcone I'd use Medium or Thick CA. Once allowed to air dry (No accelator) the Dry CA sands just like Styrene. I use 240 and 320 to produce invisible repairs on all kinds of Styrene plastic parts.
I've found Both White and Green Squadron putty attacks the styrene making more of a mess. Bondo just seems so overly heavy unless your working on a Very large rocket.
Hope this helps.
 

Woody's Workshop

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I wish I had batteries for the camera.
I used a dowel rod to sand the fillets.
The plastic took on some grooves.
I'd say way too much for CA.
If the Squadron putty attacks the styrene as you say, I think that is good.
I will stick good, and maybe ad to the strength I lost from loosing thickness next to the fins.
The info is helpful, yes.
Thank You Kindly.
 

Incongruent

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I don't think the putty attacking the styrene is good. I feel like it would further weaken the styrene and I doubt the putty could compensate for that decrease.

I don't have any data or experience with Squadron putty, so wait for some more experienced advice.


How deep are the gouges? With CA, I've been able to fill an ~3mm deep 1 square cm hole, layer by layer. In retrospect, CA was problably not the best choice, but it worked for my application.
 

Micromeister

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I wish I had batteries for the camera.
I used a dowel rod to sand the fillets.
The plastic took on some grooves.
I'd say way too much for CA.
If the Squadron putty attacks the styrene as you say, I think that is good.
I will stick good, and maybe ad to the strength I lost from loosing thickness next to the fins.
The info is helpful, yes.
Thank You Kindly.
Usually if I'm filling large holes, removed non-scale parts or deep cracks the trick is to use Medium CA layed down in layers. I've filled 1/8" openings with medium CA in 3 passes. If the gap is very wide apply lines of CA down both sides as you go until the gap is completely filled then add additional layers until the blemish is slightly overfilled. Let the CA completely cure. Once hardened the CA will sand away with the same amount of pressure as the styrene substrate leaving NO sign of the blemish.
 

lcorinth

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I use Tamiya basic gray putty for imperfections in plastic nose cones and tail cones all the time, as well as for filling in the little gaps in my PSII Nike Smoke 2-part fins. Works great. I just putty on enough to fill the gap or hole, wait a few hours, and wet sand off the excess. It's one of the easiest cosmetic things I do in a build.
 

Woody's Workshop

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I use Tamiya basic gray putty for imperfections in plastic nose cones and tail cones all the time, as well as for filling in the little gaps in my PSII Nike Smoke 2-part fins. Works great. I just putty on enough to fill the gap or hole, wait a few hours, and wet sand off the excess. It's one of the easiest cosmetic things I do in a build.
Thank You Kindly, Just the info I was hoping to get.
 
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