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Any suggestions on what static margin to go with from the group?

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The website notes that: “Low Static Margin gives less static stability but greater elevator authority, whereas a higher Static Margin results in greater static stability but reduces elevator authority. However, too much Static Margin makes the aircraft nose-heavy, which may result in elevator stall at take-off and/or landing, whereas a tail-heavy aircraft will also be unstable and susceptible to stall at low speed, as during the landing approach.”
Eric,

This made me think of a few things . . .

(1) Regarding "Elevator Authority", I believe that the area of the Elevator will either increase or decrease this effect . . . What percentage of Wing Area is the Elevator ?

(2) Did that website make any distinction between the effect on a Conventional glider, versus a Canard design ?

(3) How much Rudder Area, relative to Wing Area, is there ?

To my eyes, the Rudder Area appears rather large, giving me concern about inducing twist, during Boost, and also about something I read in an article (BELOW)

https://aviation.stackexchange.com/questions/78202/how-does-vertical-stabilisation-work

EXCERPT :

3 Answers​

ANSWER #1

The "vertical stabilizer" (or "vertical fin") provides what is known as "weathervane stability", "directional stability", or "yaw stability". It makes the plane act like a weathervane. A weathervane always points into the wind.

The wind a plane "feels" is not the external, meteorological wind, but rather the "wind" created by the plane's movement through the airmass (or perhaps we might prefer to say "within" the airmass). This apparent wind is called the "relative wind". So the vertical fin keeps the nose of the plane pointing in the direction that the plane is actually going, i.e. in the direction that the plane is moving through the air.

Imagine driving a car at high speed on an icy lake on a day with no wind. Can you see how a big vertical fin mounted at the back of the car would provide a "weathervane effect" that would tend to keep the car lined up with the direction it is actually moving, and would tend to prevent the car from "swapping ends" or sliding sideways?

That is what the vertical fin on an airplane does. It's a very bad thing if an aircraft "swaps ends" or slides sideways through the air at a very large sideslip angle. In extreme cases, there's essentially nothing the pilot can do to salvage the situation, and the plane may tumble violently out of control. It's a misconception to say that the function of the vertical fin or vertical stabilizer could be replaced by appropriate control inputs with the ailerons. It is true in many cases that planes with relatively small vertical fins often require the pilot to make larger rudder inputs to keep turns "coordinated", i.e. to keep the nose from swinging somewhat out of line with the direction the plane is going as it turns -- we'll save saying any more about that for some other answer.

Airplanes that lack a vertical fin must derive "weathervane stability" or "yaw stability" or "directional stability" from other aspects of the aircraft's configuration, generally having to do with the fact that more surface area is behind the center of gravity than in front of it. For example, a swept-wing configuration generates some amount of "weathervane stability" even without a vertical fin. Imagine putting a pair of swept wings or delta wings on a pole like a weathervane. Can you see how, as long as the pivot point were sufficiently forward, the whole assembly would tend to point into the wind like a weathervane? That's why hang gliders don't need vertical fins.

The question appears to contain a misconception about the relationship between yaw stability and roll stability. In fact, making the vertical fin too large actually tends to make a plane LESS roll-stable or MORE spirally unstable, so that it tends to roll away from wings-level into a steeper and steeper bank and turn. As a plane starts to roll into a turn, dihedral and sweep (if either are present) tend to generate a stabilizing roll torque that tend to roll the plane back towards wings-level, but only if the developing turn involves some amount of sideslip. In other words the roll-stabilizing effect of sweep or dihedral are only present if the plane is sideslipping to at least some small degree. A large vertical fin tends to prevent sideslip, and thus makes the plane behave as if it had less dihedral or sweep. That's why planes that need lots of roll stability, like "free-flight" model airplanes that must fly with no guidance of any kind from either a pilot or a computer, rarely have large vertical fins. Even though we don't want the plane to completely "swap ends" and tumble, or to slide sideways through the air at a really extreme sideslip angle, we do need for there to be some amount of sideslip in an uncommanded bank and turn in order for sweep or dihedral to be able to bring the plane back toward wings-level. Likewise when a free-flight model airplane is trimmed for an intentional turn, if the sideslip were somehow completely eliminated, we'd see the bank angle start to get steeper and steeper. If a pilot were actively controlling the airplane, he could deal with this by making an appropriate control input with the ailerons, but that option doesn't exist with the free-flight model airplane.

So other than preventing a violent tumble when the plane "swaps ends" completely, a vertical fin generally doesn't really contribute to roll stability.


ANSWER #2


A good way to explain it is to have no wings at all, just use an arrow. The vertical stabilizer keeps the nose from yawing back and forth just as the horizontal stabilizer keeps the nose from pitching up and down while the arrow is in flight. This helps it fly straight and true with minimal drag. Roll is inconsequential until ... we add wings to our arrow.

Now any yaw (from a wind gust) creates a rolling "couple" as one wing goes faster than the other. Generally not a major issue with straight wings. Some dihedral takes care of that.

older than 5 years, please continue reading

Then swept wings and much faster and larger aircraft came along. Swept wings increase yaw roll coupling by presenting an asymmetric straight half wing and more swept half wing to the airstream in addition to the rolling effect of wing speed asymmetry.

Designers countered by developing very large vertical fins, as seen on the Mig-15. These presented a whole new host of issues, as now the aircraft was highly asymmetrical to aerodynamic side forces. Planes of this design tended to spin out of control very easily.

In the rush to the jet age, the vertical symmetry of the biplane, and it's successor, the high wing monoplane was forgotten.

But, in addition to explaining to the 5 year olds, let them start building and flying for themselves. They will see how much vertical stabilizer and dihedral they need for their designs.


ANSWER #3


The vertical stabilizer is designed to provide a specific amount of passive weathervaning tendency. Not too much, not too little. The vertical stab's surface area is key to the airplane's behaviour for both lateral stability and spiral tendencies, and is tied into wing dihedral effect.

You want enough fin surface area to make the airplane passively respond reasonably quickly to yaw deviations, but not too much. Too little fin area, and its weathervane tendency is too weak and the airplane's nose wanders from side to side in turbulence.

If there is too much fin area, it weathervanes too quickly. If the airplane is put into a bank by a bump, for dihedral effect to work there has to be a bit of sideslip permitted to generate the self-righting force that dihedral is intended to create. So fin sizing is intended to allow a bit of lag between the sideslip starting and the weathervaning yaw response, so that dihedral effect can work to level the wings.

If the fin is too big, the weathervaning response is nearly instantaneous so that very little side slip is allowed to develop, and dihedral effect is less effective. So what happens is the airplane is disturbed by a bump and immediately yaws into the low wing and wants to start a descending spiral.

When airplanes are put on floats, the float surface area adds fin surface forward, which has the effect of making the existing fin smaller. The airplane is plenty stable laterally, but the nose wanders in bumps and needs more rudder work to do good coordinated turns (I've flown a Fleet 80 on floats, and it had no extra fin area added to the already smallish vertical fin with floats installed, and if you weren't on top of it with the foot work, it would slither around the sky like a glider would with no rudder inputs).

To fix this, either extra fin area is added at the tail when the floats are installed, or a trick that Cessna uses on later 180s and 185s can be employed, where a bungee spring is added to the rudder, which tends to hold it on center, and makes the rudder contribute some amount to the effective fin area. You have to live with higher rudder forces however.

END EXCERPT :

Dave F.
 
You could add a small angled hook towards the nose and catapult launch it for trimming, before launching it.

What motors do you plan to use

Where will the boost CG be located ?.
It will obviously change as you go up from A to C.
Boost CG is at 4.1875" from the canard root LE with a loaded B4-2, so comfortably far forward. I may opt for a C6-3 if the flying field is big enough and/or more altitude is warranted.
 
Done!

Glider in launch mode:

20230323_161549.jpg

Windryder-2.jpg


Windryder in glide mode:

20230323_161925.jpg

Windryder-1.jpg



Just waiting for a low-wind morning to trim this newest addition to the stable. Anxious to see how she does. Those adjustment screws are far more precise than just glomming bits of clay on the nose or tail, and best of all don’t involve adding any additional weight.

Edit: 3/27/23 swapped out some of the blurrier images with clearer ones.
 
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Done!

Glider in launch mode:

View attachment 570995


Windryder in glide mode:

View attachment 570996

View attachment 570997

Just waiting for a low-wind morning to trim this newest addition to the stable. Anxious to see how she does. Those adjustment screws are far more precise than just glomming bits of clay on the nose or tail, and best of all don’t involve adding any additional weight.
Eric,

Very nice build !

After viewing these photo's, I'm a bit concerned about the amount of Surface Area on the Pylon / Pod assembly, compared to the Rudder area.

There may be "issues" in getting the glider to turn, as desired.

Dave F.
 
I wonder what would happen if you turned this into a slide-pod glider? Where the pod is on top of the wing during boost, then it slides forward, ejecting the engine and the elevators engage.
 
I wonder what would happen if you turned this into a slide-pod glider? Where the pod is on top of the wing during boost, then it slides forward, ejecting the engine and the elevators engage.
Cool variation that I might try in a future scratch-build experiment. 👍
 
Hey Rktman:

When you get the chance before you test fly it, put it's dimensions into that cg calculator and let's see how close it comes out to versus real life.

Like to see where the boost and glide cg is located
After hand trimming, the CG ended up 1/16" farther back than the furthest point from the front that the online CG calculator computed. This is with the elevator set at about 15° negative.

I can see where making the fuselage about 1.5" longer and using 1/8" balsa for the main wing and rudders and 1/16" for the canards as well as shortening the boost pod a bit would probably yield better results, helping to shift the weight bias more toward the back.
 
UPDATE

Finally had an opportunity to launch the Windryder on its first test flight on a B4-2. Ideal straight-up trajectory and transition to a better-than-expected glide despite some wind gusts! Maybe a little too ideal though….it unfortunately drifted almost straightaway toward the treeline. 😱 In a perfect example of Murphy’s Law at its finest, it got hung up in a dense thicket of fir tree branches about 25’ up.

I gave it up as lost, but a friend came to the rescue with an extendable pole. Ten minutes of probing made for a happy ending when it finally fluttered down to the undergrowth intact and undamaged. Overall a great first outing.

Video below.
Forgot to set my GoPro on max zoom so I had to digitally zoom it in post-production, so the image quality isn’t so great. If you squint and go frame by frame toward the end, you can make out the glider being swallowed by the tree.

 
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Installed the adjustment tab and screws. Tiny fiddly pieces that initially required tweezers in lieu of fat fumbly fingers. I ended up having to hold them in place and aligned for 20 minutes until the wood glue set enough for me to put in a CA fillet to reinforce the attachment area.

Just a tip: if you ever use this method on a scratch build or an Estes Spaceplane repro, you might want to consider drilling the screw hole through your piece of balsa before cutting the tab out and drilling it later. Why? I used 3/32” hard balsa and when using a pin vise to drill the hole, the wood still split along the grain. Tried again after coating the tab with thin CA, and this time the wood split again while I was putting the nylon screw through.

I guess the tab is small and relatively fragile once cut out. Drilling the hole through the balsa sheet first should present far less problems since you’re not trying to manipulate a tiny piece. Hindsight is a great thing isn’t it? Wish I’d realized that at the time. Anyway I ended up laminating a 1/64” piece of ply onto the tab. Did the trick, no more splitting problems, and being harder than balsa, it keeps the nylon screw snugly in place so it won’t tend to back out.

View attachment 570496


I put reference marks on the screws and tabs so I could track how many adjustment turns I made to keep it even for both sides, ensuring each elevator flap would have the same angle of deflection. What’s nice is that I can also use these to correct for a too-tight circling radius (usually the result of one wing or side being heavier).

View attachment 570497


The finished flap lock/motor unit in launch position.

View attachment 570498

View attachment 570499

little late to this post.

couple things.

RE: the cross pieces holding the screws

are these a balsa ply? Having strength in orthogonal directions may help keep it from splitting. You clearly picked the right direction for single grain.

an idea for future iterations that maaaaaay make it easier. Cut fin slots on opposing sides. Cut your cross pieces as a single piece that threads through the fuselage from one side to the other. Yes I know, the MOTOR has to go there, but bear with me.

using External glue/fillets, glue the piece in place on both sides, NO GLUE on inside.

once dry, cut the inside piece of as close to the inside wall as you can.

assuming this is BT-20, wrap sandpaper (can go pretty rough) around a 13mm motor casing (or something smaller than 18 mm, anyway) and sand off the stubs INSIDE the tube flush with the tube.

ASSUMING your cuts are straight, should make alignment perfect (not easy to do with externally mounted short stubby segments like this). Eliminate “hold time“ (always nice.)

RE: the “codpiece” (the little piece at the midline tail end of the wings). I’ll give you a 10 for style points, it looks sharp (no pun intended.) I am wondering about flight characteristics.

the piece adds surface area, which is a plus. Whether it is worth weight of balsa and glue?

contour is more interesting. My gut instinct is that avoid positive angled edges (like yours) or negatively angle edges (like yours would be WITHOUT the codpiece). I am think aerodynamically the most efficient (lowest drag) would be a smooth concave tailward single curve that smoothly blends the right and left wings.
 
Decided to go with a 3.03mm square carbon tube for the fuselage. While I’d normally use hard balsa or spruce, this’ll be on the largish side so its “backbone” will need to support a lot of stress from its flying surfaces, especially when launched on a C-class motor. The spruce weighed in at 4.11g vs the carbon tube’s 3.12g, and the carbon tube is absolutely bulletproof when it comes to durability and strength.

little late to this post.

couple things.

RE: the cross pieces holding the screws

are these a balsa ply? Having strength in orthogonal directions may help keep it from splitting. You clearly picked the right direction for single grain.

an idea for future iterations that maaaaaay make it easier. Cut fin slots on opposing sides. Cut your cross pieces as a single piece that threads through the fuselage from one side to the other. Yes I know, the MOTOR has to go there, but bear with me.

using External glue/fillets, glue the piece in place on both sides, NO GLUE on inside.

once dry, cut the inside piece of as close to the inside wall as you can.

assuming this is BT-20, wrap sandpaper (can go pretty rough) around a 13mm motor casing (or something smaller than 18 mm, anyway) and sand off the stubs INSIDE the tube flush with the tube.

ASSUMING your cuts are straight, should make alignment perfect (not easy to do with externally mounted short stubby segments like this). Eliminate “hold time“ (always nice.)

RE: the “codpiece” (the little piece at the midline tail end of the wings). I’ll give you a 10 for style points, it looks sharp (no pun intended.) I am wondering about flight characteristics.

the piece adds surface area, which is a plus. Whether it is worth weight of balsa and glue?

contour is more interesting. My gut instinct is that avoid positive angled edges (like yours) or negatively angle edges (like yours would be WITHOUT the codpiece). I am think aerodynamically the most efficient (lowest drag) would be a smooth concave tailward single curve that smoothly blends the right and left wings.
I ran out of 1/32" balsa to sandwich into an orthogonal ply so I went with a piece of 3/32" balsa instead of 1/8" to save what weight I could. Due to the splitting problem I ended up laminating a piece of 1/64" ply onto it. Did the trick, and while I could have predrilled the holes before cutting out the tabs, the ply keeps the screws snugly in place while the softer balsa "thread" holes might have loosened up fairly fast (believe me, I spent a lot of time repeatedly adjusting those screws on multiple trimming sessions).

I like your idea of a single piece passing through the fuselage to ensure alignment and eliminate holding it in place while the glue sets.

It triggered another idea, one that might involve less work. A jig made from scrap tubing and balsa. Just tape it in place to accurately position and support the tabs while the glue dries. Ah yes, hindsight is such a great thing…too bad it’s always after-the-fact.

jig.jpg




Agree, that “codpiece” 😂 was just cause I thought it looked cool and served no other purpose. While I admit I don’t have the engineering chops to determine how it might affect aerodynamics, a smooth curve would probably have been less work. But what the heck, this was just for fun to see how well this design idea worked, and I prefer small-field sport fliers vs max performance gliders that I’ll likely lose on their 1st flight. (I actually have a scratch-built 13mm glider where my goal was max performance and air time just to see what I could achieve. Glad I didn’t fly it at this outing, I’m almost sure I would’ve lost it considering this less-than-optimized glider was aloft for a totally unexpected 42 seconds and probably would’ve made it to a minute if the tree hadn't snagged it).
 
Agree, that “codpiece” 😂 was just cause I thought it looked cool
It does, 10/10 for style.

RE:1687452217985.jpeg

I’m a lazy son of a gun.

I like this. ‘Cept I’d ditch the balsa fillets.

Cut the tube 1/2 piece.

Set it on your balsa or bass ply.

Cuts obviously need to be straight, it will self level.

Cut out the inside piece so you have pretty much your picture.


Tape it in place.

Put glue fillet on top (glue the wood pieces on.)

When dry Carefully trim off the tubing.

Add a bottom fillet and you’re done.
 
I’m a lazy son of a gun.

I like this. ‘Cept I’d ditch the balsa fillets.

Cut the tube 1/2 piece.

Set it on your balsa or bass ply.

Cuts obviously need to be straight, it will self level.

Cut out the inside piece so you have pretty much your picture.


Tape it in place.

Put glue fillet on top (glue the wood pieces on.)

When dry Carefully trim off the tubing.

Add a bottom fillet and you’re done.
Actually I'm an even lazier guy; the half tube is just a jig that's taped to the motor tube. The two shelflike things on either side are just to align and support the tabs (that hold the adjustment screws) while the glue dries.
 

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