Suggestions for removing a stuck engine? Can’t twist too hard or the body will break. Tried jamming a rod into the front but not a lot to catch on.
Stuck motor
- Thread starter Ronz Rocketz
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Use a rod or angle tool. Feed it into the body from the front.
Feed it into the spent casing until it catches on the clay nozzle.
Brace the metal piece and push down on the rocket.
Caution: make sure you are pushing against the clay nozzle and not the thrust ring.
I have ripped out a thrust ring accidentally using this method.
OR....
Try and grab the exposed engine casing with a pair of pliars and twist/wriggle it out.
Feed it into the spent casing until it catches on the clay nozzle.
Brace the metal piece and push down on the rocket.
Caution: make sure you are pushing against the clay nozzle and not the thrust ring.
I have ripped out a thrust ring accidentally using this method.
OR....
Try and grab the exposed engine casing with a pair of pliars and twist/wriggle it out.
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Yikes. Did anything happen to it, or just got stuck for no reason?
BTW a mini rail is perfect for the job if you have one. Perfect width for 18mm motors and plenty stiff. Otherwise a 1/4" rod will do.
Is that a Pong?
For the next launch try wrapping the outside rear of the engine around the motor and tube instead of friction fit.
It works, believe me.
Looks like you have enough of the motor tube sticking out for tape wrap retention to work.
![0720201454[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/rocketryforum/data/attachments/342/342181-4ca5a62bd52125f152e41eba15e4786e.jpg "0720201454[1].jpg")
Is that a Pong?
For the next launch try wrapping the outside rear of the engine around the motor and tube instead of friction fit.
It works, believe me.
Looks like you have enough of the motor tube sticking out for tape wrap retention to work.
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You can unwrap the casing from the inside out.
ThirstyBarbarian
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Loos like the nozzle is already gone so there might be nothing to push on from the forward end.
I would try some pliers. I would not try grabbing the whole casing from opposite sides and twisting. I’d try getting a grip on one side of the casing with half the plier jaw inside and the other half outside. Then pull straight out and wiggle.
if all else fails, you could try unraveling the casing by peeling out layers of paper from the inside of the casing. I’ve heard of people doing that, but I’ve never done it myself.
I would try some pliers. I would not try grabbing the whole casing from opposite sides and twisting. I’d try getting a grip on one side of the casing with half the plier jaw inside and the other half outside. Then pull straight out and wiggle.
if all else fails, you could try unraveling the casing by peeling out layers of paper from the inside of the casing. I’ve heard of people doing that, but I’ve never done it myself.
Ah, exhibit A why I don't like friction fit, at least for BP motors. Second Kuririn's suggestion to use tape wrap in the future.
Thin piece of plywood, etc with a hole in it just big enough to slide the motor tube through up to the aft end of the body tube. That will give you a littler safer way to get some leverage. Drill a hole through the exposed end of the engine case as close to the motor tube as you can get, big enough to get a heavy nail or bolt through. Use that to twist and pull...
Or with a bolt in there, you could fasten a couple of L-brackets on and gently jack it out with screws.
Or just start peeling...
Or with a bolt in there, you could fasten a couple of L-brackets on and gently jack it out with screws.
Or just start peeling...
This is what I would do. Just unwind it from the inside.
Thanks guys. I peeled away enough to get in there with a 1/2" drill bit. I surmise I had too much glue for the engine block causing too much friction. The heat from the motor probably adhered the case to the tube. I got too excited about trying out my new launch controller (thus the 6ft cable) and jammed the motor into the tube thinking that I could get it out later with pliers.
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You might want to triple that wire length
I almost sacrificed an extension cord but then decided to wait until the new wire arrives on Friday.
Ive launched rockets 3 times in the past week so probably won’t again until next week despite Wednesday promising lite winds.
Ive launched rockets 3 times in the past week so probably won’t again until next week despite Wednesday promising lite winds.
ThirstyBarbarian
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Definitely need to have longer wires and stand further back. If your motor catos, you are going to be showered with burning propellant grains standing that close.
Unfortunately, Amazon lost my package so no wire this Friday. Guess I'll have to risk going to Walmart to buy wire.
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I use a 30 foot extension cord for my launch controller, works great. Easy to replace, large gauge wire, etc. Controller has a surface mount receptacle and I use extra computer power cords for the clip whip, cut off the IEC end and install gator clips.
heada
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Keep close control of that power lead. Since you're using a standard plug at one end(C13?, C14?...I forget), it's entirely possible that someone can plug it into 110v AC live and get quite the surprise on the other end. Not saying you shouldn't do that, just keep track of your cords.
Electricians call that a widow maker.
stickershock23
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You did make the cable at least 15 feet long....you are standing too close per NAR safety rules.....BUT it does look nice...great job on controller excerpt for 15 feet??
Yes you are correct, could be hazardous to someone unaware what they are doing. At minimum I keep the clip whips and controller in a lockable range box, definitely not lying around the house. Thank you for pointing out the potential for danger if misused.
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Or you put the clips on the side with the socket, and have the whip coming out of your control box be the plug. If you were really clever, you could even build in a recharger for your battery into the control box.
That's medieval.
Here's more bad examples of electrical contrivances that I've found in my travels.
I'm pretty late to this party, but as to the original topic, I use a lot of rebar around the yard to keep rocks where I want them on banks, borders, etc. Sometimes I have to pull one out. I've found that if I take a vice grip and twist it around a few times, I can then start twisting and pulling and out it comes, whereas a straight pull I may as well go grab an engine hoist or something, because it isn't moving otherwise.
True. The difficulty was that the PONG rocket is especially fragile so could only twist so much.
I suspect it had glued itself in. Was not easy to drill out the remainder of the motor. If it was easy, everyone would be doing it, right? Oh wait...
Karl
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All the comments are handy tricks to know, getting a motor stuck is a PITA. In the past if I've exhausted all the usual approaches I get the nozzle removed and then take a hobby knife with a fresh blade to start cutting the inside of the motor away from itself.
Or suicide leads. I would really thing about not doing that.
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Yeah, "suicide cable" is the term I've heard.
Our club uses extension cords for running between an LCO control panel and a box at the high power pads, but I don't think the leads to the pads are cut extension cords. I could be wrong, though...
arconhi
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You could try very slowly drilling it out starting with a small drill bit and working up the sizes bigger each time. The motor casing will relieve the pressure as the hole gets bigger. I did this a few times and it works. Do not do this with an unused motor. The propellent could ignite with a spark from the bit.
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arconhi
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Dont do this with an unused motor. A spark could ignite the motor.
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