Stratus Gale from Arkansas [Apogee Components] (non-R/C)

[Crawf56]

This rocket glider has intrigued me for a while. At launch, the wing is back at the tail. Once the motor expires, the wing slides forward. In this forward position, it 'rotates' the leading edge slightly up, to give lift for gliding.

This model has a 16-1/4 inch wingspan.

https://www.apogeerockets.com/Rocket-Kits/Skill-Level-5-Model-Rocket-Kits/Stratus-Gale?cPath=1_92&

 

[aerostadt]

Nice write-up by Apogee. Let us know how this works.

 

[Ez2cDave]

The method used by Apogee is an upward curve in the fuselage. The end result is a "0-0" Wing Incidence during Boost and a positive 3 degree Wing Incidence at deployment.

Dave F.

 

[Crawf56]

Yes, here is a look at the Wing and Fuselage.

 

[Crawf56]

The kit does NOT come with a set of written instructions. However, it does come with an INSTRUCTION VIDEO. You get a DVD, and a listing of the instructions on YouTube.

 

[Crawf56]

Wing dihedral is very important with this model. You start by making the Wings Alignment Fixtures (or "jigs"). Here are the sheets:

 

[Crawf56]

Working on the wing jigs.

 

[Crawf56]

Moving along to the sanding of the wing (video: Stratus Gale 03).

The wing is sanded as one piece, prior to cutting the dihedral section. The line is the "25% chord" mark. After sanding is complete, this is the high point.

 

[Crawf56]

Time to "smite the balsa". (Sanding the wing.) Apogee's video goes into quite a bit of detail.



So, been sanding away on the leading edge of the wing (right side of the pick). This is a view from the wingtip, to show the airfoil shape.

 

[Crawf56]

Weapons of choice.

The silver object on the table is my ancient aluminum sanding block, which has adhesive sandpaper on it.

The black object on the wing is a razor plane. Used it to remove balsa on the trailing edge.

Finished with overall sanding. Underside of wing fairly untouched.

 

[Crawf56]

Looking at the trailing edge of the wing. I have used the razor plane on the left side; right side is untouched.

 

[Crawf56]

Looking at the razor plane pic again. Sometimes, the razor plane would gouge the soft balsa of the wing (see RED circle). Rotating the razor plane at an angle helps, but it still happens.

This was sanded out.

 

[Crawf56]

And here is the final wing shape. Leading edge on left; trailing edge on right.

Note the balsa shavings on the ground. I like to sand outside, and wear a mask.

 

[aerostadt]

Thanks for posting. That is good to know how much sanding/shaping is involved. It looks like the wing has a very thick airfoil. I am not sure that I would want to go through that much trouble.

 

[Ez2cDave]

Thanks for posting. That is good to know how much sanding/shaping is involved. It looks like the wing has a very thick airfoil. I am not sure that I would want to go through that much trouble.

If you want performance, weight reduction, drag reduction, and aerodynamic lift ( "airfoiling" ) are "everything" in a competition glider. This glider is all about that and not "eye candy", unlike many other "rocket-boosted gliders" . . . Great job on the build, so far !

Dave F.

 

[Crawf56]

Thanks for posting. That is good to know how much sanding/shaping is involved. It looks like the wing has a very thick airfoil. I am not sure that I would want to go through that much trouble.

Yeah, the wing is fairly thick. In fact, it borders on a built-up wing size (ribs & spars).

Per Apogee Components, the thick wing was chosen for strength.

 

[Crawf56]

Let's cut up a perfectly good wing. [Making the dihedral.] The wing is cut at the lasercut marks.

By the way, the lasercut quality is fantastic.

 

[Crawf56]

Once the wingtip is cut, you see this outline. These are burn marks from the laser cutting, and they will act as a sanding guide.

 

[Crawf56]

Grabbibg the smaller jig that was made earlier, I sand the edge to get the correct angle for the wing dihedral.

But use a WOOD sanding block, not a foam one like I have (on the right). The foam block deforms, giving rounded edges & front/back.

 

[Crawf56]

As you sand, the burn marks diminish. Tells you if you are sanding too much on one side.

 

[Crawf56]

Time to join the wingtips. Here is the big jig.



Setting the wing parts in place.

 

[Crawf56]

Here ya go. I used CA glue to attach the wingtips while they were on the big jig (I like saying that).

But I left too much of a gap at the leading and trailing edges. Went back and filled the gaps with 5-minute epoxy.

 

[kuririn]

I need to get me a micro planer. I've been using a razor blade, straight edge and angle tool to taper fins.

 

[BABAR]

Little late to the party. I think it was @Rktman who put dihedrals in wings by cutting out wedges from the top side without cutting all the way through, then bending it rather than fully cutting it.

 

[Rktman]

Grabbibg the smaller jig that was made earlier, I sand the edge to get the correct angle for the wing dihedral.

But use a WOOD sanding block, not a foam one like I have (on the right). The foam block deforms, giving rounded edges & front/back.

Little late to the party. I think it was @Rktman who put dihedrals in wings by cutting out wedges from the top side without cutting all the way through, then bending it rather than fully cutting it.

A much easier alternative (for next time) than trying to sand in the correct dihedral angle is to cut partially through where the joint will be, then gently bending the wingtip up to the correct angle. Here's a good video that details the technique (from 0 - 3:23 seconds):

 

[Rktman]

Weapons of choice.

The silver object on the table is my ancient aluminum sanding block, which has adhesive sandpaper on it.

The black object on the wing is a razor plane. Used it to remove balsa on the trailing edge.

Finished with overall sanding. Underside of wing fairly untouched.

View attachment 519559

Quick fix tip: for shallow gouges and dings, a Q-tip dipped in water will swell the balsa and either minimize the problem area, or remove it entirely. (I'm not a big fan of sanding; anything that reduces that chore definitely improves my mood).

 

[Crawf56]

Thanks for the advice. Ever forward.

Starting on the Box, which attaches to the wing, and goes around the fuselage.

Again, the lasercut parts are very well done.

 

[Crawf56]

Three parts are marked "Front". These face the leading edge, and go on the outside of the Box.

 

[Crawf56]

Box assembly. Got a bit difficult; had to lightly sand tips to help fit in slots.

 

[Crawf56]

Attaching the Box to the wing. Using CA, followed by epoxy.



Put CA in slots on top of wing, to help secure Box.