I just caught this on a re-read and I instantly thought of this:(Yes, my homemade launch controller has two launch buttons that have to both be pressed at the same time to launch the rocket.
I just caught this on a re-read and I instantly thought of this:(Yes, my homemade launch controller has two launch buttons that have to both be pressed at the same time to launch the rocket.
I can't speak to the A10, but I do know that the A8 Estes motor designation is due to grandfathering in of older names that were created before the NAR engine number conventions were put into place.Tim Van Milligan was just writing that he didn't know why they called it an A8 and A10.
Umm, can you post some pictures please?"Umm..."? What does "Umm..." mean??? Inquiring minds want to know.
The A10 advertises its improved maximum thrust over the A3. Both are actually closer to an A2.I can't speak to the A10, but I do know that the A8 Estes motor designation is due to grandfathering in of older names that were created before the NAR engine number conventions were put into place.
STOP!on the first 2-stage flight the booster section got stuck on the sustainer after burn-out (the spent motor dropped free) and got totally roasted by the upper stage motor. !
That's what happened Saturday with the Sting Ray. Used masking tape instead of cellophane tape for extra friction fit but worked too well.STOP!
This to me is a design flaw (with all due respect to the Estes designers, who produce some great rockets, with a few exceptions like the Cosmos Mariner and the MIRV.)
With a good design it should be impossible to eject the booster motor without separation. This means a short rear engine block or a motor hook.
If your want to rebuild the booster and fly your old sustainer, rebuild the booster with a either a motor hook OR a body tube that allows you to place a 1/8” engine block (just a 1/8” section of body tube, cut a small slice out, and glue it into the Rear End of the booster tube. Add a fillet or just and extra layer of glue, keep it short both to avoid Krishnic effect and make it easier to install igniters
this solves problem 1, motor ejection.
problem 2 is failure of separation with the booster motor in place, upper motor fires through the booster motor, as you can imagine doesn‘t work well.
if you have cellophane tape nongap staging, use one layer of tape (just enough to hold the motors together, not enough to unintentionally friction fit.)
you do need a SEPARATE piece of tape to friction fit the booster motor into the booster section (not much, just enough so booster tube doesn’t slide off the motor on boost phase due to drag.
and a SEPARATE friction fit for the sustainer (again if going non-gap staging).
My suspicion is this second failure mode is due to the motor to motor tape wrap UNINTENTIONALLY acting as a friction fit that holds the booster in place after upper stage ignition. You may want to put a motor casing slightly into the forward end of booster (the part that overlaps the tape) and “waggling” it to make sure it is a bit loose around the motor to motor tape joint. This is for taped nongap staging ONLY, the taped motors will maintain alignment on boost.
You do NOT want any “waggle” on GAP staging,
If not for the tape, the stages should separate as easily as a low or mid power nose cone for both gap and no gap staging.
The internet must not me your native language.Okay, he could have just said that and eliminated the confusion, but whatever...
If you are interested in black powder staging you should find this useful.
high-speed video analysis of staging
Good video.
Don't make mistake I did of watching it on a computer with no audio and relying on the transcript. Not even sure what a 'Brick Vicar' is.
View attachment 542093
Enter your email address to join: