Semroc Lil' Hustler question

[DocSeuss]

So I've got a Semroc Lil' Hustler (I also have the SLS Lil' Hustler, but I haven't built it yet because I want to get much better at building rockets so I don't mess that one up) and I notice that it's got a longish coupler tube that you're supposed to attach the motor mount and the shock cord too. Looks like it beefs up the interior of the rocket a bit.

I tried to glue it in as per the instructions using some titebond quick and thick on the aft ring, and I checked it this morning and it popped right out.

What's the most advisable way to keep this tube secure? Get something and paint some glue inside ahead of the fin slots?

Right now I'm trying to pull it back out, but some of the dried wood glue is giving me trouble.

Photo of the instructions showing what the assembly looks like.

 

[BEC]

Ah, the Mini-Hustler. One of several kits that Carl introduced (the so-called "ready to build" series) that went together like that with that long inner tube of ST-9 inside a main body of ST-10.

It's been so long since I built my Mini-Hustler (and the Start and Mini Aero-Dart which were also done this way) that I really don't recall what I used on those builds. I've been using Titebond II — and if I'm worried about grabbing, Alleene's Original Tacky Glue — for most of my builds for some years.

I suspect what happened to you is that the Titebond thick glue just didn't get in between the upper centering ring on the inner tube well enough to do what it was supposed to do.

I'm trying to think how I'd fix this but I can't think of any brilliant way to do it that doesn't involve a syringe or pipette or some other similar device to deliver some thinner glue (regular Elmers? Titebond I or II?) to where it needs to go while you've pushed the motor tube forward a little to allow access it. Maybe you can just use a toothpick to get some drops of glue on the inside of the ST-9 tube where that upper centering ring is supposed to go (again, while the motor mount is pushed forward some). Then pull the assembly back while twisting it a bit to spread the glue drops around. Just a suggestion.

 

[kuririn]

Assume you mean the Mini Hustler?
The long coupler is referred to as an "insulating tube"
Insulates, provides added rigidity and an anchoring point for the base of the fin tabs.
And two slits at the top provide an anchoring point for the elastic shock cord.
Old school-ish.
IIRC I used a dowel to get the glue just behind of the forward centering rings' final position in the airframe.
I partially slid the tube and motor mount up the main tube then put another bead of glue on the inside end of the main tube.
Then slid the insulating tube/motor mount to the final position, making sure the engine hook is between the fin slots.
Putting glue on the dowel without it dripping takes a little practice. I make sure not to overload it and keep the dowel turning while I position it inside the airframe. Might take multiple passes to get enough glue in there. Marking the depth of the dowel so you know how deep to put the glue also helps.
Hope this helps. Have fun!

 

[DocSeuss]

Yes, the mini hustler, though it doesn't seem so mini, haha. Thank you both!

When I said assembly, I meant the entire thing, including the ST-9 tube. I managed to get it out, painted some glue just ahead of the fin slots with a long cotton swab (that's what I had handy), and then re-glued the bottom ring as well. The top ring of the motor mount is pretty secure in there.

I'm not sure I understand the advantage of the insulating tube, but I found on this and the other Semroc kit I built with one (a mini centurion which went off without a hitch), the forward (white) ring doesn't seem to actually be smaller than the rear (brown) ring. I always have to sand them a little bit to get them to fit at all.

Too bad Semroc isn't still selling the Hustler. I love that design. I wonder if I could make an upscale BT-70/80 version...

 

[kuririn]

Too bad Semroc isn't still selling the Hustler. I love that design. I wonder if I could make an upscale BT-70/80 version...

This may be useful.
Scroll down towards the end for cloning info.
https://plans.rocketshoppe.com/centuri/cenKF-10/CenKF-10Hustler.pdf
Erockets may still have the LT tube sizes that Centuri/Semroc used.
They may even have the nose cone and transition.
I haven't checked.

 

[DocSeuss]

Oh, interesting, thank you! I'll dive in when I can.

Looks like the re-glued version is rock solid. Almost done.