Pyro Pro
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2003
- Messages
- 442
- Reaction score
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The Hydra 7 is a currently the "newest" kit by Semroc Astronautics (original release in 1969, new release on January 1st, 2004). The rocket is based around 6, 18mm motor tubes, and is a great clustered, high altitude payloader, and retails for $23. The rocket can fly on anything from 1 C6-3 to 3 C6-5's to 7 C6-7's. With its largest motor loadout (7 C6's) it is supposed to reach 1700'
I bought this kit last Saturday at the Whitakers launch, and have been working on it nonstop ever since. I finished it today around 1:00.
All parts came packaged in a large plastic bag, with the smaller ones being inside their own small bag. All parts were in exellent condition, and all there.
Parts List
2-Body Tubes 1.69"
7-Body Tubes 0.79"
1-Body Tube 3.63"
1-Nose Cone 1.631"
3-Nose Cones 0.714"
4-Laser Cut fin sheets
1-Balsa Tube Coupler for 1.69" Tube
1-Launch Lug 1/8"
1-Screw eye
2-Elastic Shock cords
1-Kevlar Shock cord
3-Parachutes 12"
3-Sets of shroud lines
1-Wooden dowel 3/16"
7-Thrust rings
6-Plugs for thrust rings
1-Decal Sheet
1-Engine spacing tube
1-Q-Tip for glue application
Construction starts with sealing the fins, because there are so many it would be hard to reach them after the rocket is finished. I used about 3 coats (on each side) of some type of spray on sealer, although I'm not sure what brand it is. Next, you glue together the 7 motor tubes in a six-point star pattern. From here, you attach the 6 shroud support fins in between the joints of the motor tubes (LOC Viper style). Then you glue on the shroud, and put in the motor blocks. The six outside blocks are plugged with cardboard disks, and the central one is left open for the ejection charge to go through. The next step is where the rocket begins to get its unique appearance. From the outside, the nosecones in the kit appear to go halfway through the body tube. However, instead of cutting the body tube, you are supplyed with 3 nose cones. You have to cut each one in half, and then sand the curvature of the 1.6" tube into the side of them so they conform to the body tube. I thought this step would be the trickiest of them all, however it was quite easy. First I cut the Nosecones in half with a microsaw, then I used a drum out of a drum sander to sand down the curve on the nosecones. Once you get that done, you test fit them into the booster tubes and slide the Main body tube down onto them. You are supposed to re-sand if nesecsary, however I didn't have to. The next few steps involve gluing on the fins, which I'm sure everyone here knows how to do just fine. The only little catch with the fins is that...there are 21!!!(thank you laser-cutting
). After that is done, you assemble the payload section (glue in coupler, glue in screw eye), and the other little things you do at the end like filits, launch lug, etc.
Contruction Rating 5/5
Finishing: I still havent't painted it, givin that there are about 4" of snow on the ground outside and the temperature is about 20degrees Farenheight. However, I don't have school tomorrow, so I may paint it then. I'm thinking blue payload and nosecone, blue cluster tube nosecones, and white everything else.
Flight: I plan to fly it at the Febuary 2004 Whitakers launch, with paint of course.
Overall, a very nice kit. Everything fit well, which definatly made constuction simpler, and the laser cut fins are a nice touch, especially with the number on this rocket. I can't wait to fly it, so I may take it to the field by our house and fly it on a single C6-3 (250'), but I'd hate to crash it before I can fly it full-up on all 7 motors. So, if you don't already have one, I'd buy one, because, even on display, it is a spectacular kit.
Overall rating: a well deserved 5/5
Mini Review: Rocket Stand
I got this along with the kit, and it is designed to hold the small specification card that comes with Semroc kits, as well as the rocket. All parts are laser cut thin cardboard, and it goes together nicely with laser-cut precision. You can see it holding the rocket in the picture below.
-David
I bought this kit last Saturday at the Whitakers launch, and have been working on it nonstop ever since. I finished it today around 1:00.
All parts came packaged in a large plastic bag, with the smaller ones being inside their own small bag. All parts were in exellent condition, and all there.
Parts List
2-Body Tubes 1.69"
7-Body Tubes 0.79"
1-Body Tube 3.63"
1-Nose Cone 1.631"
3-Nose Cones 0.714"
4-Laser Cut fin sheets
1-Balsa Tube Coupler for 1.69" Tube
1-Launch Lug 1/8"
1-Screw eye
2-Elastic Shock cords
1-Kevlar Shock cord
3-Parachutes 12"
3-Sets of shroud lines
1-Wooden dowel 3/16"
7-Thrust rings
6-Plugs for thrust rings
1-Decal Sheet
1-Engine spacing tube
1-Q-Tip for glue application
Construction starts with sealing the fins, because there are so many it would be hard to reach them after the rocket is finished. I used about 3 coats (on each side) of some type of spray on sealer, although I'm not sure what brand it is. Next, you glue together the 7 motor tubes in a six-point star pattern. From here, you attach the 6 shroud support fins in between the joints of the motor tubes (LOC Viper style). Then you glue on the shroud, and put in the motor blocks. The six outside blocks are plugged with cardboard disks, and the central one is left open for the ejection charge to go through. The next step is where the rocket begins to get its unique appearance. From the outside, the nosecones in the kit appear to go halfway through the body tube. However, instead of cutting the body tube, you are supplyed with 3 nose cones. You have to cut each one in half, and then sand the curvature of the 1.6" tube into the side of them so they conform to the body tube. I thought this step would be the trickiest of them all, however it was quite easy. First I cut the Nosecones in half with a microsaw, then I used a drum out of a drum sander to sand down the curve on the nosecones. Once you get that done, you test fit them into the booster tubes and slide the Main body tube down onto them. You are supposed to re-sand if nesecsary, however I didn't have to. The next few steps involve gluing on the fins, which I'm sure everyone here knows how to do just fine. The only little catch with the fins is that...there are 21!!!(thank you laser-cutting
). After that is done, you assemble the payload section (glue in coupler, glue in screw eye), and the other little things you do at the end like filits, launch lug, etc.Contruction Rating 5/5
Finishing: I still havent't painted it, givin that there are about 4" of snow on the ground outside and the temperature is about 20degrees Farenheight. However, I don't have school tomorrow, so I may paint it then. I'm thinking blue payload and nosecone, blue cluster tube nosecones, and white everything else.
Flight: I plan to fly it at the Febuary 2004 Whitakers launch, with paint of course.
Overall, a very nice kit. Everything fit well, which definatly made constuction simpler, and the laser cut fins are a nice touch, especially with the number on this rocket. I can't wait to fly it, so I may take it to the field by our house and fly it on a single C6-3 (250'), but I'd hate to crash it before I can fly it full-up on all 7 motors. So, if you don't already have one, I'd buy one, because, even on display, it is a spectacular kit.
Overall rating: a well deserved 5/5
Mini Review: Rocket Stand
I got this along with the kit, and it is designed to hold the small specification card that comes with Semroc kits, as well as the rocket. All parts are laser cut thin cardboard, and it goes together nicely with laser-cut precision. You can see it holding the rocket in the picture below.
-David
