Scissor Wing Transport Construction

[MetMan]

I've started building this new Estes kit. The laser cut balsa is GREAT! Everything is going together smoothly so far, but the button that secures the wing/pivot assembly takes a bit of finesse to avoid gluing it to keep the "swing".

The plastic is a bit soft but the Testors orange tube seems to attack it well enough. I'm roughing up as best I can and also using medium CA when I can.

A question for you gliber folks out ther. The elevators have a vinyl decal hinge. Will this hold together/stay attached or should I use something to it to make it stick?

All together this is a fantastic kit and a real bargain!

MetMan

 

[Micromeister]

Met:
I have a scissor wing transport I've been flying for Oh gee Since 1991 and a Crusader swingwing that's older yet completed in 1989, both use a vinyl tape elevator hinge. I've been using mostly sliver mylar vinyl for scratch built gyroc, folding helicopter blades, canard flaps and other hinge joints without a single failure. I usually crash the model or fly it away before the vinyl cracks or the adhesive lets go. I wouldn't worry about the elevator hinges.
One thing I find on both the scissor wing and the Crusader swingwing the pod tube beccomes charred and weak after a few flights. I ran reinforcing spare at 3rd points along the long axis between the centering rings to prevent the tube from crimping at the chute attachment points.

 

[Micromeister]

I just realized you can see the silver mylar elevator hinges better on this micro-maxx powered scissor wing.

 

[MetMan]

Originally posted by Micromeister
One thing I find on both the scissor wing and the Crusader swingwing the pod tube beccomes charred and weak after a few flights.

Thanks! I've got some BT-20 tube couple stock. Maybe I'll put a length inside the power pod.

 

[Donaldsrockets]

Awesome!!!

I really want to get one of these. My hobby shop currently has them on back order.

Keep us posted, I'm very interested to hear how this rocket flies and glides.

 

[urbanek]

Originally posted by MetMan
Thanks! I've got some BT-20 tube couple stock. Maybe I'll put a length inside the power pod.

Or you could use the trick that was used in the MIRV Griffon. Make insulator tubes out of thick paper. You cut a length of paper and roll it into a tube and put it where the ejection gasses might char the inside of the tube. You replace this each time. That way, the burnt parts are replaced each time.

urbanek

 

[sandman]

WOW!

The foums "time dilation" problem is making it really hard to understand this thread...questions are being answered before they are even asked!

Back to the Scissor Wing...mines in a box wrapped for Christmas day!

 

[MetMan]

Someone may have already answered this question <g>, but does anyone know where the CG is supposed to be on the boost configuration scissor wing? The glider is about an inch or so nose heavy so I'll add clay to the rudder tube. I suspect the whole thing is somewhat more tail heavy than it "should" be. Thanks for any assist!


MetMan

 

[George Gassaway]

Metman wrote:

>>>>
Someone may have already answered this question , but does anyone know where the CG is supposed to be on the boost configuration scissor wing? The glider is about an inch or so nose heavy so I'll add clay to the rudder tube. I suspect the whole thing is somewhat more tail heavy than it "should" be.
<<<<

I do not know where the glide CG should be. If you can’t find it anywhere, try about 35-40% back from the leading edge of the wing root and see how that goes.

As for the boost CG, if it is nose heavy in boost configuration, that is a GOOD thing, do not bother with it. Also, if you did for some reason want to add any tail weight to make the boost CG be more to the rear, that ought to go to the rear of the ejecting pod, not the rear of the glider (unless the glider was too nose heavy for glide, otherwise if the glide CG was good any tail weight you added would mess up the glide balance).

The original Scissor Wing kit plans are on Jim Z’s site. You might check those out to see if they are clearer than the instructions in the re-released kit.

https://www.dars.org/jimz/est1265.htm

- George Gassaway

 

[MetMan]

George,

Great suggestion! The boost CG should be no closer than 5 3/4" from the rear of the glider.

The glider CG is covered well in the new instructions. It should be from 8 3/4-9" from the rear of the glider.

MetMan

 

[dtomko]

A few years ago, I bought the Lawn Dart Rocketry clone kit. It was (is) a lot of work, as you just get patterns and have to hack away at the plywood. Here's a shot of the pivot mechanism, which follows the Estes original. How close is the new plastic assembly. Could someone post a few pictures?
Thanks,
Drew Tomko

 

[gpoehlein]

This isn't a really good pic (had to shoot without flash - it whited out with it) and it's kinda blurry, but it does give an idea of the new swing mechanism in the new Estes version.

Greg