Scale Rivots

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Jun 27, 2004
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I have a V-2 and I want to make it as realistic as possible. I heard that putting on "rivots" makes it look very cool. Anyone know anything about doing this or how it is done?
I know of two ways,
you can use diluted elmers glue(white or yellow) and a hypodermic needle to apply them one by one
the riveting on the v2 was not very straight and even looking

or you and take a plastic comb, remove some of the points to get the spacing you want and dip the comb evenly into the diluted glue than transfer the dots to the model ,,

either way, you have to experiment with the mix to get the rivets just right

I'm sure there are other ways as well

this would probably be more at home in the techniques forum
Some of the Launch Pad kits say to use cut off pin heads for rivets.
I have used sheet styrene punched out with the tip of an old mechanical pencil.
They are kind of small, but they weigh nothing and add texture.
I've seen the "pin-head" method stevecarr mentioned used on armor and aircraft plastic models, and it looks pretty convincing.

Snip most of the pin shaft off, leaving a little of the pin shaft on the pin head. Put on a dab of CA or epoxy, then poke it through the tube. Never tried it on a rocket, but seems like it should work fine.

*sits back and waits for the bad "pin head" and "pin shaft" jokes to start flying*
I have used RC56 canopy glue, used to install canopies on R/C airplanes. It is white like Elmers but a bit thinner, hence the right consistancy. Unlike elmers though, it is waterproof, oilproof fuelproof etc when dried, so paints won't attack it. I use the hypodermic method, whcih lets you work as fast as you can go. If you mess one up, simply wipe it away with your finger and do it again. A piece of masking tape is placed on the model with marks showing each rivot location.

Here are the results:

Some guy around these parts made a scale model of the Nautilus submarine from 20,000 leagues under the sea and he had something like 15,000 rivits on it made with a toothpick and semi-frozen epoxy. Apparently the epoxy would stay thick and not cure for hours, allowing lots of diddling time. He has way more patience than I do!:rolleyes:
The hypo or needle in a pin-vise method has worked best for me on LPR type models. there are also single and 5 dot tools used in ceramics called ..." Dotting tools" in a number of Dot sizes that have worked well on LMR's. I've also used the pin head method on a couple larger scale Model rockets that worked out well.
Ditto Carls mention of RC56 canopy glue. No mixing necessary;)
Originally posted by phaar
I have a V-2 and I want to make it as realistic as possible. I heard that putting on "rivots" makes it look very cool. Anyone know anything about doing this or how it is done?

If using any sheet styrene, say .010 to .030 thick, you can use a pounce wheel. This tool looks like a gear stuck on a handle. You run this gear along the plastic pressing down lightly, and you get a nice even line of little bumps sticking out the other side of the sheet plastic. Looks quite convincing.

Micro-Mark has them or you can go to a fabric shop and get them there; fabric folks use them to mark and transfer patterns to fabrics.
All the above discussion is correct for the old-fashioned kind of rivet with a protruding head. This is probably the correct kind of rivet head for V-2 missiles and other older designs, but be aware that flush-headed fasteners are also widely used.

A flush-headed rivet or bolt leaves the outer surface flat, and does not mess up the aerodynamics as badly. These fasteners do, however, show from the outside as a small circle, and often have a slotted head or a small central dimple (from pulling the stem out of a blind fastener).

These can be added to your model by using a small piece of tubing with a sharpened lip. Press it into the paint as it is drying and it will leave a small round mark that looks like a flush rivet head.

Mind you, I am telling YOU to do this, because there ain't enough $$$$$ in the world to make ME sit down for hours and do this!