Sad Micro Max News
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Neil:
The point Young man is the Challange of building and flying Very small models and/or very detailed tiny models.. the little brick RTF's were never inended to be the focus of the line.. just a sad result of poor decisions by toy-biz.
Have you looked at any of the Kit type micors from ASP, Pratt hobbies,QCR or bothered to try building your own micros of your favorite designs?
I've been building and flying MR for more years than I really like to remember and I have to say these tiny treasures are more fun than anything I've flown. Not to mention I can carry over 90 models to the range in tool box, and fly for a year on the money you'd spend on a single M or up motor. In your young limited budget situation I'd think you'd jump at the chance to produce 10 or 15 models for less then $20.00 and be able to fly those same models to 30 to 300 feet for about .80 a flight.
Would you like to produce a model like this that will fly to over 200 feet, returns on a streamer and fly again,and again from a foot ball size field? Just make lots of sense to me. Of coarse I live in the northeast where flying fields are tough to find. Out west I might not be a High on the micros... Just remember ANYthing you can fly in standard, LMR or HPR.. I've already made and flown in Micro-Maxx, Except RC which isn't that far off either.
Most of the plans for these models are available FREE for anyone to build.
Hope this helps you see the Micro-Maxx point
The point Young man is the Challange of building and flying Very small models and/or very detailed tiny models.. the little brick RTF's were never inended to be the focus of the line.. just a sad result of poor decisions by toy-biz.
Have you looked at any of the Kit type micors from ASP, Pratt hobbies,QCR or bothered to try building your own micros of your favorite designs?
I've been building and flying MR for more years than I really like to remember and I have to say these tiny treasures are more fun than anything I've flown. Not to mention I can carry over 90 models to the range in tool box, and fly for a year on the money you'd spend on a single M or up motor. In your young limited budget situation I'd think you'd jump at the chance to produce 10 or 15 models for less then $20.00 and be able to fly those same models to 30 to 300 feet for about .80 a flight.
Would you like to produce a model like this that will fly to over 200 feet, returns on a streamer and fly again,and again from a foot ball size field? Just make lots of sense to me. Of coarse I live in the northeast where flying fields are tough to find. Out west I might not be a High on the micros... Just remember ANYthing you can fly in standard, LMR or HPR.. I've already made and flown in Micro-Maxx, Except RC which isn't that far off either.
Most of the plans for these models are available FREE for anyone to build.
Hope this helps you see the Micro-Maxx point
Neil
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I live the in new england also.
All good points... I just never really got into them for some reason.
Those are VERY detailed rockets! Im impressed! I doubt I could get so much detail into a 4" diameter rocket, let alone a 4" tall rocket!
I also never really got into small scale models. Bigger ones like the AT Tomahawk are nice, but I dont put hours into making exactly scaled "peanut scale" models. I prefer bigger, faster ETC. Some people like smaller, more detailed, scale models. Just a personal preference, I guess. I have TRIED to make peaunut scale IQSY Tomahawks, but I just didnt see much exitement in it, so now they are just sport birds.
Ive flown a few of the little RTF things, and I didnt see much exitement in the flight. I guess the exiting part is building them, and I didnt do that, so I guess I am missing the point. The flight actually interests me more than the building, though it is obviously different for other people. In my opinion its worth the extra money it takes to fly HPR. You just dont get that rush of exitement that you do with the HPR birds with a MMX engine. I like being startled by loud engines while I am prepping my rockets. To each his own, I guess
All good points... I just never really got into them for some reason.
Those are VERY detailed rockets! Im impressed! I doubt I could get so much detail into a 4" diameter rocket, let alone a 4" tall rocket!
I also never really got into small scale models. Bigger ones like the AT Tomahawk are nice, but I dont put hours into making exactly scaled "peanut scale" models. I prefer bigger, faster ETC. Some people like smaller, more detailed, scale models. Just a personal preference, I guess. I have TRIED to make peaunut scale IQSY Tomahawks, but I just didnt see much exitement in it, so now they are just sport birds.
Ive flown a few of the little RTF things, and I didnt see much exitement in the flight. I guess the exiting part is building them, and I didnt do that, so I guess I am missing the point. The flight actually interests me more than the building, though it is obviously different for other people. In my opinion its worth the extra money it takes to fly HPR. You just dont get that rush of exitement that you do with the HPR birds with a MMX engine.
I like being startled by loud engines while I am prepping my rockets. To each his own, I guess 
n3tjm
Papa Elf
That is why you don't install the igniters until your rocket is on the launch pad
...HOLD ON TIGHT!!!
Don't worry, I knew what you meant
Just watch your fingers LOL
Neil: check out the 60 or so one page plans in the files section of the micro-maxx yahoo group, they'll at least give you a strating point with the tiny ones
Neil: check out the 60 or so one page plans in the files section of the micro-maxx yahoo group, they'll at least give you a strating point with the tiny ones
Neil
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LOL....
Ill take a look at em. Several times I have considerd getting myself a MMX Jayhawk or somethin from ASP, but I decided my money would be better spent on a V2 or something I might get a "tubes o plenty" thing from Apogee.... Does that have a MMX sized tube in it? Its worth a shot, I guess. I can never get those things to ignite with that silo pad, though.....:kill: How do you guys do it? What do I use for fins on something that small? Not 1/4" plywood, im guessing!
Ill take a look at em. Several times I have considerd getting myself a MMX Jayhawk or somethin from ASP, but I decided my money would be better spent on a V2 or something
I might get a "tubes o plenty" thing from Apogee.... Does that have a MMX sized tube in it? Its worth a shot, I guess. I can never get those things to ignite with that silo pad, though.....:kill: How do you guys do it? What do I use for fins on something that small? Not 1/4" plywood, im guessing! 
sandman
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Neil,
Micro Maxx motors are 1/4" in diameter and 1" long.
Totally Tubular has Micro Maxx tube (T-2+ 2.55" I.D.)
But 1/4" diameter x 3" launch lug from Apogee works just fine.
I use 1/64" ply (cut it with scissors!) for fins.
I use their standard igniters and a 14.4v launcher...works every time!
Just tape the igniter to the launch wire and set your model down on the igniter.
sandman
Micro Maxx motors are 1/4" in diameter and 1" long.
Totally Tubular has Micro Maxx tube (T-2+ 2.55" I.D.)
But 1/4" diameter x 3" launch lug from Apogee works just fine.
I use 1/64" ply (cut it with scissors!) for fins.
I use their standard igniters and a 14.4v launcher...works every time!
Just tape the igniter to the launch wire and set your model down on the igniter.
sandman
Neil:
Ca works very well on the Bic pen models, If you go to the files section in the micro-maxx yahoo group. ( You have to joint the group to get into the files and photos section)
https://groups.yahoo.com/group/MicroMaxRockets
Art Applewhite has the one page plan for the Bic pen rocket in the files section, Print the instrustions sheet on #110 lb card stock then cut and fold the fin unit. I've lost 4 or 5 of the pen models flying out of sight I've gone a step further than Art, by adding a motor block, 24" kevlar shock line and 1/2" x 12" teflon tape streamer.
OBTW we pull the pen point out replacing it with a tooth pic. you can also cut the clear/clean part of the ink tube to from the launch lugs.
Ca works very well on the Bic pen models, If you go to the files section in the micro-maxx yahoo group. ( You have to joint the group to get into the files and photos section)
https://groups.yahoo.com/group/MicroMaxRockets
Art Applewhite has the one page plan for the Bic pen rocket in the files section, Print the instrustions sheet on #110 lb card stock then cut and fold the fin unit. I've lost 4 or 5 of the pen models flying out of sight
I've gone a step further than Art, by adding a motor block, 24" kevlar shock line and 1/2" x 12" teflon tape streamer. OBTW we pull the pen point out replacing it with a tooth pic. you can also cut the clear/clean part of the ink tube to from the launch lugs.
Mike
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Neil, you need a thinner lug otherwise its like sticking another rocket to the side! I've heard people use the inside tube of a bic pen (where the ink is) for MMX lugs. Just use the ink first!
I bet you never guessed how many rocket parts bic pens had in them!
I bet you never guessed how many rocket parts bic pens had in them!
Neil:
the Igniter plugs are 2 piece plastic, it should pop out with pliers. If you now have a straight piece stuck you may need a pair of needle nose pliers to attempt to catch one side at a time. If that doesn't work You'll need a #1 Phillips Screwdriver. remove the bottom, and lay the controller aside out of the way. there are 4 screws in the plate above the controller, remove these 4 screws and slide the plate/contact wires out.. Note this plate only goes in one way (check the 2 slotted "Key" try to remember the location, it make reassemble much easier
Once the contact plate is removed you should be able to pull out the dead igniter body from the inside. reverse the procedure to put the launcher back together.
Here's a trick to prevent the igniters from jambing in the base. before inserting tirm off all the excess paper from the sides of the igniter plastci plug sides. taking care not to cut into the plug plastic. a sharp X-acto knife does a fine job of trimming.
Hope this helps...Heres a page of how to alter the Silo for 12v. which shows how to open the bottom
the Igniter plugs are 2 piece plastic, it should pop out with pliers. If you now have a straight piece stuck you may need a pair of needle nose pliers to attempt to catch one side at a time. If that doesn't work You'll need a #1 Phillips Screwdriver. remove the bottom, and lay the controller aside out of the way. there are 4 screws in the plate above the controller, remove these 4 screws and slide the plate/contact wires out.. Note this plate only goes in one way (check the 2 slotted "Key" try to remember the location, it make reassemble much easier
Once the contact plate is removed you should be able to pull out the dead igniter body from the inside. reverse the procedure to put the launcher back together.
Here's a trick to prevent the igniters from jambing in the base. before inserting tirm off all the excess paper from the sides of the igniter plastci plug sides. taking care not to cut into the plug plastic. a sharp X-acto knife does a fine job of trimming.
Hope this helps...Heres a page of how to alter the Silo for 12v. which shows how to open the bottom
Guys:
mike has one solution, the ink tube from Bic pens will work, coffer stir sticks work will and the store brand Q-tips have a hollow plastic stem that is very handy for lugs.
RyanS also has an excellent way. rolling you own with a piece of .050 or thicker music wire as a mandrel plain old printer paper strips can be rolled into very nice spirial lugs with a little elmor's glue. Like this
mike has one solution, the ink tube from Bic pens will work, coffer stir sticks work will and the store brand Q-tips have a hollow plastic stem that is very handy for lugs.
RyanS also has an excellent way. rolling you own with a piece of .050 or thicker music wire as a mandrel plain old printer paper strips can be rolled into very nice spirial lugs with a little elmor's glue. Like this
Yes: clustering is possible, I've done as many a 8 using bare nichrome on a 12v system. Not the supplied iginters. 2, 3 and 4 motors are a lot more reliable. here a look at the 8 motor plan. It's funny you ask about clustering Micros, Sandman & I were talking about a MMX Saturn-1b, 8 motor cluster this morning. That's how I had this drawing resized to post
I'll put a couple picture of some Clusterd micor's in the Really tiny rockets thread. We can better discuss them and other micro there.
I'll put a couple picture of some Clusterd micor's in the Really tiny rockets thread. We can better discuss them and other micro there.
