Rustoleum Fluorescent Orange Crazing

[Rockiteer]

Having some issues applying Rustoleum fluorescent orange paint to my rocket body and fins. Shortly after application it starts to craze or crack. I am spraying over Rustoleum apple red spray paint as a base coat over auto primer. What gives? Should I sand it down, reprime with auto primer then try again. Any input appreciated and thanks!

 

[neil_w]

How long did the red coat dry before you applied the orange?

 

[hcmbanjo]

Most all the Rusto paints say to "Re-coat within and hour or wait 24 hours before re-coating."
There are some dry time variations in different types of paint, always check the fine print on the can.

I shoot a light coat and can re-coat after about 5 - 10 minutes.
If I have to sand something after that first coat, I let it dry for two days then sand and re-coat.
Summer humidity really slows down the drying times.
If there has been a break in spraying I'll wait two of three days before applying more paint.

 

[Rockiteer]

How long did the red coat dry before you applied the orange?

24 hours

 

[Rockiteer]

Thanks Hans for the info. It has been very humid here so that may have contributed to the mess. Had to sand everything down and start all over again. Going with regular Rustoleum 2x Orange this time around.

 

[neil_w]

24 hours

Yeah, that is usually not gonna be enough with the spray enamels. I wouldn't even recoat after a day in dry weather, much less humid weather. Doesn't matter if it's fluorescent or not, just inherent to the paint type.

I don't think I've ever recoated after less than four days (usually longer), which is conservative and tedious but I've yet to experience any sort of problems due to insufficient cure (knock on wood).

 

[Rockiteer]

Yeah, that is usually not gonna be enough with the spray enamels. I wouldn't even recoat after a day in dry weather, much less humid weather. Doesn't matter if it's fluorescent or not, just inherent to the paint type.

I don't think I've ever recoated after less than four days (usually longer), which is conservative and tedious but I've yet to experience any sort of problems due to insufficient cure (knock on wood).

Thanks Neil, your insight is most appreciated.

 

[tomsteve]

i had that happen on an apogee aspire with the flourescent green. i ended up clearing over it just as it was. pretty cool look.

 

[Daddyisabar]

I use the Rusto base white primer and let it cure for a week in a dry climate. Then lots of coats of thin, runny Fluorescent orange. One time I did not let the white base cure completely on a Comanche 3 and it crackled all over. Ending up calling the rocket Molten Magma 3 and the kids loved the lava orange crackle paint job.

 

[Marc_G]

Another thought is that the fluorescent paint doesn't like a glossy substrate. I've had better luck with slightly rougher surface.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

[Rockiteer]

Another thought is that the fluorescent paint doesn't like a glossy substrate. I've had better luck with slightly rougher surface.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

I think you just nailed it my friend. Seem to remember the same problem back in my static scale model days when trying to paint the seats of a 68 GTO flat black over a base coat of gloss enamel maroon. The results were horrific. That was 50 years ago... should of remembered. Thanks!

 

[Marc_G]

I think you just nailed it my friend. Seem to remember the same problem back in my static scale model days when trying to paint the seats of a 68 GTO flat black over a base coat of gloss enamel maroon. The results were horrific. That was 50 years ago... should of remembered. Thanks!

I've got some hairy pictures of florescent paint crackle somewhere. The stuff when dry just flaked off. Just scuffed the white gloss coat with 800 grit then resprayed the florescent. Worked fine.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

 

[neil_w]

Gloss vs. flat undercoat could be an issue but cure time for the base coat is still key. 24 hours is not reliably long enough.

 

[snrkl]

I paint almost exclusively with rustoleum - it all comes down to drying times for me - what I've found is:

1) all coats done inside an hour or wait 48hrs (even if the can says 24)

2) if you're spraying plastics or stuff that is CA sealed, I find I have to get it all done in an hour, or wait 72-96hrs before re coating.

Since I've done this, I haven't had problems.

 

[muddymooose]

I've used Rustoleum fluorescent on several rockets now with good results. This has been on plastic, fiberglass, and QT at 70-80 degrees in moderate humidity.

1) Scuffed entire surface with 220 sandpaper then wiped with alcohol.
2) Applied Rustoleum primer in several light coats, each 10-20 minutes apart.
3) Let that dry overnight.
4) Applied Rustoleum flat white in several light coats, each 10-20 minutes apart.
5) Let that dry overnight.
6) Applied Rustoleum fluorescent in several light coats, each 10-20 minutes apart.
7) Let that dry overnight.
8) Applied Rustoleum clear coat in several light coats, each 10-20 minutes apart. Last coat a little thicker to bring out the gloss.