No real story Glasspack, other than I've been there in the past and I've since moved past it.Plugger, Almost seems like there is a story behind that advice ???
+1, same here.No real story Glasspack, other than I've been there in the past and I've since moved past it.
When you get into the hobby it's funny the things you choose to focus on, convince yourself of, and the things you ignore. But often over time logic wins out.
Exactly, and at that point are you really worried about the extra weight of JB Weld??At the end of the day, it is the same reason we use it on the retainers. Heat. Pretty much any epoxy will give you enough hold to keep the retainer on the rocket if it is cold, but JB Weld retains its hold even when it gets very hot.
Same principle for surface mounted fins on a minimum diameter rocket. The heat may not be high enough to go over the Fiberglass' Tg temperature, but it could get high enough to soften the epoxy on the fin mount and cause the fin to pop off. Combine that with the fact that I (and most people, it seems) like to fly their minimum diameter rockets at extreme speeds (Mach 2 or 3+), and JB Weld again seems to be the natural choice.
It is more of a "why not?" thing. If you have JB Weld and you are making a minimum diameter rocket and you know it is going to get hot, why not use an adhesive you know works well in extreme heat and is really thick, which makes excellent fillets? If you are building a rocket that cost hundreds of dollars, are you really going to skimp on the fillets?
As we say up north here, uff da!Was told at the check in table I needed to add booster lights to my Night Flyer to make it night safe in case of separation. A quick trip to the vendor trailer and I taped some LED strip lights up and down the booster then tightly taped the battery at the transition coupler. The motor ejection, main ejection and backup couldn't overcome the friction. Beautiful K sparky up and a long long whistle coming back down. Made a 7 foot rocket into a 3 footer real quick. Never noticed the problem because the booster was shear pinned to the transition.
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The only difference for me is I usually write the motor size with the drilled delay (H-238-8) on a piece of masking tape in large writing on the case. When it is burned, I pull the tape and re-label for the next load. My rubber band skills are lacking.Especially for the 'building motors the night before':
Take the Motor face card from the packet. Mark on it the delay used / drilled to. Also mark intended rocket it'll be used for. Build motor. (Assemble motor?!)
- Rubber-band it (and igniter) to the motor case.
- Rubber-band it (and igniter) to the rocket body ONCE THE MOTOR IS INSERTED into the rocket.
And you'll never be unsure of what motor is what, and what delay it has..
that works too!The only difference for me is I usually write the motor size with the drilled delay (H-238-8) on a piece of masking tape in large writing on the case. When it is burned, I pull the tape and re-label for the next load. My rubber band skills are lacking.
I do a slightly different method.Using the little loop on a molded nose cone as an attachment point for the recovery system.
- Cut a hole in the side of the shoulder, large enough to drop a washer in (large washer preferred) and large enough to fit a wrench.
- Insert an eyebolt into the hole at the bottom of the nose cone.
- Washer into nose cone, on the eyebolt
- Nut on eyebolt.
- Insert wrench, tighten nut by turning the eyebolt.
- Add a second nut as a jam nut.
- Add epoxy to the nuts and the thread of the eyebolt so it ain't going nowhere. Now you have a proper attachment point.