If you have a vice ( or extra hands available) they should bend better if you heat them (red hot) with a propane torch.
I've made a couple without heating in the past, just a 90 at both ends (like old school). Didn't trust them enough to use them.
Wilton vises-You're Nobody unless you own a Wilton over on The Garage Journal (which I quit 5 years ago)Also, vise. Unless you also hang out on garage/shop forums and have a habit of collecting too many of them, then vises can become a vice.
Wilton vises-You're Nobody unless you own a Wilton over on The Garage Journal (which I quit 5 years ago)
I do... Then again, I'm into the history of the hobby, and the history of kits.Who uses engine hooks anymore....I quit using them long ago and now just leave the motor mount a 1/2" long and use aluminum tape to retain motors of all sizes from13mm to 75mm (I haven't flown a 98mm yet).
I have found some wiper spines don't like to be bent 90 degrees to make motor hooks....but I don't know which spines came from which brand of wipers, all I can say is "watch out for cracking".
The one I am showing is for a scratch build that used a AT composite motor (as shown). Composite motors have a much higher ejection force and can zipper the motor hook right out of a cardboard motor tube.I thought the top 90 degree bend went into a slot in the tube?![]()
You can also clamp an aluminum block as a heat sink and spot anneal the bends leaving the long section springy(?), I used to use an old Radio Shack mini torch (two CO2 cylinder looking tanks) for that purpose and silver soldering gun sights.And that's sage advice. The technique of how the hook is bent is the key to success.
What I've learned when making homemade motor hooks is to ensure there is a radius at the 90 degree bends. I typically use (2) pliers to bend the wiper spine, and not a vise and a hammer.
You only get one chance. If you bend the spine in the wrong location, you can't flatten it out and re-bend it. The forming process work hardens the material... it will indeed crack if over worked.
A nice fluid motion when bending the metal is the result when using pliers... as opposed to multiple blows with a hammer with the steel clamped in a vice.
When I make my own, I make them long enough to go over the thrust ring, so the slot is on top of that reinforced part of the motor tube. Estes kits have the hook in a slot just under the thrust ring.I thought the top 90 degree bend went into a slot in the tube?![]()
Proceed with caution and....When I make my own, I make them long enough to go over the thrust ring, so the slot is on top of that reinforced part of the motor tube. Estes kits have the hook in a slot just under the thrust ring.
My homemade engine hooks will be used with Estes BP motors. Nothing more powerful than E black powder motor. Is the zipper issue still applicable? Definite don’t want zippered motor tubes!The one I am showing is for a scratch build that used a AT composite motor (as shown). Composite motors have a much higher ejection force and can zipper the motor hook right out of a cardboard motor tube.
I've proved that theory....![]()
My homemade engine hooks will be used with Estes BP motors. Nothing more powerful than E black powder motor. Is the zipper issue still applicable? Definite don’t want zippered motor tubes!
Odd'l Rockets used to sell an extended engine hook like that.When I make my own, I make them long enough to go over the thrust ring, so the slot is on top of that reinforced part of the motor tube. Estes kits have the hook in a slot just under the thrust ring.
Does removing the aluminum tape damage the tube or do you reinforce the tube? Is aluminum tape the stuff they use on heating ducts?Who uses engine hooks anymore....I quit using them long ago and now just leave the motor mount a 1/2" long and use aluminum tape to retain motors of all sizes from13mm to 75mm (I haven't flown a 98mm yet).
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