Replaced my Windshield Wipers - Time to Make Engine Hooks!

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tear those things apart and take another picture so that we can see what you end up with, and if you can get the right dimensions you need.
 

BEC

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I have found some wiper spines don't like to be bent 90 degrees to make motor hooks....but I don't know which spines came from which brand of wipers, all I can say is "watch out for cracking".
 

T-Rex

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If you have a vice ( or extra hands available) they should bend better if you heat them (red hot) with a propane torch.
I've made a couple without heating in the past, just a 90 at both ends (like old school). Didn't trust them enough to use them.
 

SolarYellow

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If you have a vice ( or extra hands available) they should bend better if you heat them (red hot) with a propane torch.
I've made a couple without heating in the past, just a 90 at both ends (like old school). Didn't trust them enough to use them.

That will anneal them, unless you make sure to cool them at the correct rates to maintain the springiness. I'd have to read up to remember how to do all that and not make them overly brittle.

Also, vise. Unless you also hang out on garage/shop forums and have a habit of collecting too many of them, then vises can become a vice.
 

SolarYellow

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Wilton vises-You're Nobody unless you own a Wilton over on The Garage Journal (which I quit 5 years ago)

8-incher. 100+ lbs. of garage bad-assitude. Don't know what I'd do without it.

Also have a Panavise that has Long Beach, CA cast into it. And a German Ridgid XF50 Quick Acting swivel-base vise. And the 2.5-inch Wilton that's a total Chinesium POS. And a Wilton woodworking vise.

Yeah, I might have the vice.
 
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rharshberger

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Who uses engine hooks anymore....I quit using them long ago and now just leave the motor mount a 1/2" long and use aluminum tape to retain motors of all sizes from13mm to 75mm (I haven't flown a 98mm yet).
 

Ladykate

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I use my own screw on retainers unless it is a motor that doesn't use an ejection charge. If you want to make the springy things, take a hint from the lock pick crowd, walk a few neighborhood streets and pick up street sweeper brushes that have broken off. You will find lots of them. It is springy, tough, and just about the right width.
 

lakeroadster

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I have found some wiper spines don't like to be bent 90 degrees to make motor hooks....but I don't know which spines came from which brand of wipers, all I can say is "watch out for cracking".

And that's sage advice. The technique of how the hook is bent is the key to success.

What I've learned when making homemade motor hooks is to ensure there is a radius at the 90 degree bends. I typically use (2) pliers to bend the wiper spine, and not a vise and a hammer.

You only get one chance. If you bend the spine in the wrong location, you can't flatten it out and re-bend it. The forming process work hardens the material... it will indeed crack if over worked.

A nice fluid motion when bending the metal is the result when using pliers... as opposed to multiple blows with a hammer with the steel clamped in a vice.

Hook.JPG DSCF2043.JPG
 
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lakeroadster

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I thought the top 90 degree bend went into a slot in the tube? :questions:
The one I am showing is for a scratch build that used a AT composite motor (as shown). Composite motors have a much higher ejection force and can zipper the motor hook right out of a cardboard motor tube.

I've proved that theory.... :facepalm:
 

Paul Howard

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I save my used windshild wiper blade spines all the time and make all sorts of things with them since they tend to be pretty good stainless steel. I've made engine retainer hooks too, and generally they work great!
 

rharshberger

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And that's sage advice. The technique of how the hook is bent is the key to success.

What I've learned when making homemade motor hooks is to ensure there is a radius at the 90 degree bends. I typically use (2) pliers to bend the wiper spine, and not a vise and a hammer.

You only get one chance. If you bend the spine in the wrong location, you can't flatten it out and re-bend it. The forming process work hardens the material... it will indeed crack if over worked.

A nice fluid motion when bending the metal is the result when using pliers... as opposed to multiple blows with a hammer with the steel clamped in a vice.

You can also clamp an aluminum block as a heat sink and spot anneal the bends leaving the long section springy(?), I used to use an old Radio Shack mini torch (two CO2 cylinder looking tanks) for that purpose and silver soldering gun sights.
 

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