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Removing Rustoleum 2X

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Nytrunner

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Alright, I've tried searching around online and the forum, but haven't found anything definitive.

I'd like to remove the paint from my L1 nosecone and redo it with better surface prep. (The first time I painted it, I knew nothing about spray painting, the last time I refinished it has fallen victim to the poor original paintjob underneath).

Since it is 2X, I'm leaning towards using a healthy amount of acetone, but I wanted to ask around first in case there was a better substance that would work faster (despite likely being more toxic).

Anyone else had experience removing 2X?
 

Gary Byrum

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Sand it off as much as possible and use less acetone. A palm sander would help a great lot.
 

Nytrunner

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I've got a mounted belt sander, not a palm sander. I bet I could gently work it against that. Perhaps I was subtly hoping for a product that required less sanding lol.

So acetone it is? I know mineral spirits did zilch to the finish.
 

tightwad

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May I suggest lacquer thinner. I have used it numerous projects with great success. Test it first on the shoulder of the NC to make sure it doesn't eat away the plastic. If the NC is fg you may be able to use paint remover. It is smelly and does make a mess. Be sure to wear nitrate gloves with both products.
 

Nytrunner

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It's a Madcow plastic cone (4" short ogive).

Between lacquer thinner, acetone, and paint stripper, which are more likely do damage plastic cones?
 

MikeyDSlagle

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My Madcow nose .cones all I have to do is bump something hard and the paint falls off. Lol. Not quite that but I'm having more and more chip off. Sorry, I'm not helping...
 

Nytrunner

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If I can get it clean down to the plastic, Im considering some kind of adhesion promoter.
 

ep29030

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I agree with the sanding approach, although lacquer thinner would probably work. I would avoid acetone--dries too fast and is very aggressive, so easy to overuse it. I would sand it myself. You could hand sand with 100 grit paper. Once paint is removed, get some 400 grit wet/dry paper from the automotive area of the store and wet sand the nosecone. Use a bowl of water with a drop of detergent in there and keep dipping the paper to keep the cone wet. Then clean it, dry it. Consider using an automotive store primer made for bumpers, as it has a plasticizer in it to make the primer stick better to plastics.

've had good luck with wet sanding, followed with a good brans of primer and paint. The wet sanding is the magic here.

My rocketry experience says: avoid Rustoleum. Go to auto store for your spray cans. Use Dupli-Color or Plasti-Coat brands and you will be happy with the finished product. Worth the extra $1 per can. In particular, Dupli-Color Filler primer walks all over Rustoleum sandable primer in every way, hands down. Builds faster, dries faster, sands better. And the nozzle doesn't clog all the time. You can thank me later :)
 

Nytrunner

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I'll try acetone to get rid of the residue left by the belt sander. (I think I've got an 80 belt on it atm).

Honestly, I've gotten a pretty good routine using 2X and I enjoy the color selection available at my local Walmart, so I'm likely to stick it. I'll keep your suggestion in mind though.
 
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