Reload case cleaning

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grandcross

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How do you clean your casings? What do you do on the field? And how do you clean a case that (ahem) may not have been cleaned properly after flight and has been sitting for a while?
 
I use wet wipes once the case is cool. If your case has been sitting awhile try a soak of vinegar and water, mild solution.
 
Baby Wipes on the field, and if it has been sitting for a while I use Hoppes #9 gun solvent.
 
I use dish soap and water at home. I have a small baby bottle nipple brush (really!) for the hard to get into areas. For the larger areas, I have a long brush that was originally designed for cleaning dryer vents.
 
I use a bucket of white vinegar and dawn dish soap. I throw the cases in there after each flight and let them and I use a dowel with a rag wrapped around it to clean the inside and then I throw the cases in a bucket of clean water and then dry.
 
Baby wipes on the field. I have brushes in the 29 - 75 mm sizes, but for stubborn spots I use scotchbrite pads. I never recover my rocket before the case has cooled, but I think a warmer case cleans easier.
If I get busy and don't clean them at the field I'll do it at home in the kitchen sink with dish soap and paper towels.


Steve Shannon
 
Baby Wipes on the field, and if it has been sitting for a while I use Hoppes #9 gun solvent.

Hoppes #9 works great. Just don't forget the casing and leave it soaking overnight. Really messes with the anodizing!

The casing will still work fine, it will just look butt ugly.
 
WD 40 and a rag and a dowel for pushing the rag inside the case. Anything else that won't come off using WD-40 at field, i use Hoppes #9 when I get home. Normally the WD-40 cleans all but the most stubborn crud
 
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I have scotchbrite strips between fender washers on the end of a threaded rod. I put that in the drill and use a tub of soapy water. I shove it through the motor into the water, then spin it up and down in the motor until clean. I doesn't take long at all. I have different size rods and scotchbrite pads for different size motors, 54mm and up.
 
Baby wipes and towels on the field and I am typically generous with the silicone lube when assembling the motor, which makes the cleanup easier. Back at the hotel if I have time I will take the motor tube brushes to them with soap and water. https://www.csrocketry.com/search.html?search[keywords]=brush&_a=category One thing I discovered that works really well for cleaning some persistent marks off the hardware is the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser.
 
Plus one on those brushes.
At the NSL Chris of Chris's Rockets had some great brushes. Picked up a 29 and 38 mm. Work awesome.

Mike
 
When the tough get going and crusty, I use cleaning brushes and Goo Gone, that stuff cleans most anything. I've got a case from Ken that he leased to someone that never cleaned it. Sometimes you just got to get out the flapper wheel. Of you have to scuff the inside real bad you can take said cleaning brush and polishing compound to smooth the finish, why, so future burns won't cause as much residue.
 
When the tough get going and crusty, I use cleaning brushes and Goo Gone, that stuff cleans most anything. I've got a case from Ken that he leased to someone that never cleaned it. Sometimes you just got to get out the flapper wheel. Of you have to scuff the inside real bad you can take said cleaning brush and polishing compound to smooth the finish, why, so future burns won't cause as much residue.

Not to derail the thread, but Ken has a problem with loaned cases that don't get cleaned. I don't think he checks when they come back. The one he loaned me for my L2 cert still had an old liner in it. Fortunately a couple of TAPs had their sharpened rod and a BFH and split the old liner out for me so I could use the case.
 
I use dish soap and water at home. I have a small baby bottle nipple brush (really!) for the hard to get into areas. For the larger areas, I have a long brush that was originally designed for cleaning dryer vents.

Exactly what I do. I also have a toothbrush for threads that I didn't lube enough.
 
Be very careful with Simple Green as it can cause corrosion with aluminum and strip anodizing.

Their own advisement.

"Is it safe to use Simple Green on aluminum?

Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft, automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years. However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent oxidation."
 
I have never had any problem with Simple Green. I spray it on case and parts and wipe it off within 5 minutes or less.
 
Plus one on those brushes.
At the NSL Chris of Chris's Rockets had some great brushes. Picked up a 29 and 38 mm. Work awesome.

Mike

The 29mm is nice and portable, but the 38-98mm brushes have quite long handles for transporting. With the 54mm brush I cut the loop (handle) off the end, stick it in my drill, and use it in an in and out motion, to clean my hardware.
 
Baby wipes on a warm case usually does the trick. If not that, I soak them in the sink with dish soap
 
Not to derail the thread, but Ken has a problem with loaned cases that don't get cleaned. I don't think he checks when they come back. The one he loaned me for my L2 cert still had an old liner in it. Fortunately a couple of TAPs had their sharpened rod and a BFH and split the old liner out for me so I could use the case.

That's why I told him to take a deposit on a loaner.
 
I use dilute Simple Green in an ultrasonic cleaner for 10 minutes or so. Rinse with clean water, dry and apply lube to the threads. Store until next time.

I can't believe how clean the threads get with the ultrasonic.
 
Try to get the liner out while it's still warm, and baby wipe afterword. I then take them home and clean with dish soap and one of these: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Bottle-Scrubbing-Pad-Pack-of-3/39088439 For longer cases I have a piece of 3/4 inch PVC that fits over the handle. Works for 29/38/54mm cases (which is as large as I currently own).

Any carbon that just won't come off, I soak it with some Hoppes #9.
 
The 29mm is nice and portable, but the 38-98mm brushes have quite long handles for transporting. With the 54mm brush I cut the loop (handle) off the end, stick it in my drill, and use it in an in and out motion, to clean my hardware.

Chris mentioned the cut and mount in a drill deal when I purchased them.
Thanks for adding that tip.

Mike
 
I'll use the baby wipes in the field, then soak everything in a sink full of hot water and dish soap. After I make sure there's nothing in them, I run them through the dishwasher. Although, I'm still trying to figure out how the 54/2550 case will fit in there....
For the bigger cases, I use a toilet cleaning brush on a large dowel, that works real well. (BYW- that's the sole purpose of that brush). For the stubborn stuff, Hoppes #9 works great.

Phil L.
 
For the bigger cases, I use a toilet cleaning brush on a large dowel, that works real well. (BYW- that's the sole purpose of that brush). For the stubborn stuff, Hoppes #9 works great.

Glad you don't err ah "cross thread" that brush.
 
"Scrubs in a Bucket" at home or in the field. Water based citrus cleaner on a rugged, lightly textured towel. Won't harm the anodizing or your hands (might dry them a bit). Cleans the grease off easily and even cleans the threads beautifully.

For the caked on spots, Hoppes #9 and a Scrub on a wooden dowel.
 
The 29mm is nice and portable, but the 38-98mm brushes have quite long handles for transporting. With the 54mm brush I cut the loop (handle) off the end, stick it in my drill, and use it in an in and out motion, to clean my hardware.

I've requested shorter handles on the 38 and 54mm, they are being "designed ". Maybe the next batch.
 
I have scotchbrite strips between fender washers on the end of a threaded rod. I put that in the drill and use a tub of soapy water. I shove it through the motor into the water, then spin it up and down in the motor until clean. I doesn't take long at all. I have different size rods and scotchbrite pads for different size motors, 54mm and up.

I like this. Onwards to the hardware store
 
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