Re-usable motors

[scottluther1369]

<caution - newbie ahead> Can you use reusable motors on B, C &D engines for practice in setting them up for working up to Level 1 certification. Is it cheaper to use resuable motors? If this is possible how does one go about it and what are good reusable engines? Do they slip into the engine mounts just like the estes engines?
--Scott

 

[rabidsheeep]

i think what you have in mind is the aerotech 18mm or 24mm hardware

https://aerotechrocketry.com/customersite/products/motors/RMShardware/RMSmotors_hardware.html

although i dont know about b, c, and d motor reloads the at 18mm can take (i think) 2 different D reloads, and the 24 can take from E-G impulse reloads

 

[KenParker]

Originally posted by rabidsheeep

although i dont know about b, c, and d motor reloads the at 18mm can take (i think) 2 different D reloads, and the 24 can take from E-G impulse reloads

The 24mm RMS has D-F reloads. The 29/40-120 RMS has E-G reloads.

 

[scottluther1369]

<newbie alert> Is "24mm RMS has D-F reloads" Aerotec? A "C" reload would be perfect for around here.
Sorry.....
TIA
--Scott
P.S. I have a LOT of research to do!

 

[BlueNinja]

Aerotech used to make IIRC a B and C reload for the 18/20 case. Now it's just 2 loads. As Ken said, the 24/40 takes D-F loads, and the 29/40-120 takes E-G reloads. I've heard talk of some new loads coming out for that case

 

[KenParker]

As BN150 said, Aerotech *used* to make B and C reloads for the 18/20 case, but they don't make them any more, The only reloads you can get for that case now are two D reloads.

However, using other vendors 18mm A, B, and C single use (aka SU) motors, and using the Aerotech D reloads gives a nice range of power for 18mm birds.

Ask all the questions you want to ask, that's what TRF is for.

That, and showing pics of your latest creations.

 

[r1dermon]

the 24/40 is a great casing. if you want more info, try checking the propulsion forum, look under "reloadable casings" thread. this has been a recent topic.

 

[scottluther1369]

I think I'm going to go with the suggestion of the 24/24 since it does D's thru F's. I don't think it does G's for level 1 though.

Anyway. It look likes a good beginners choice. Really right now I want something to go low and slow until I get more comfortable.

Will this casing fit right into an "Estes" D engine block or will I need to modifiy the rocket to fit the casing? If so how hard is it? What dealer has great prices on these engines?
Thank you! Pics to follow!
--Scott

 

[rstaff3]

Originally posted by Blue_Ninja_150
Aerotech used to make IIRC a B and C reload for the 18/20 case. Now it's just 2 loads. As Ken said, the 24/40 takes D-F loads, and the 29/40-120 takes E-G reloads. I've heard talk of some new loads coming out for that case

I believe the rumored new loads you are thinking of are for the new 29/120 case, which currenly holds only the G79.

 

[BlueNinja]

A G isn't level 1. L1 starts at H, but G motors are cool anyways


I would recommend the 29mm 40-120 case for your first reload. It has a bit more power (E-G) but I've heard bad things about the grain liner for 24/40 (too tight). Besides, there's nothing like a G64 .

 

[scottluther1369]

Can I fly low and slow with thr 29mm? I think you are right with growth potrntial. Does reusable engines more cost effective?

thanks!!!! You guys are great
!
--Scott

 

[r1dermon]

way more cost effective. low and slow depends on your rocket, however, you can RIP something off the pad with that case, a G64 in the right rocket will spin your head. same with an F52. however, if you want really low and slow and visible, there are also blackjack loads for it too. plus, if you go with a heavy rocket that only gets 1000' on a G64, you can always use a bigger 29mm case for your cert. (you'll need new closures too, because the 29/40-120 dont work with any other 29mm hardware.) but you can get the 29/180 case which would be great for a low and slow cert on the right rocket.

 

[KenParker]

Can you fly low and slow with the 29mm 29/40-120 RMS? I think so. There is an E16 reload available for it. That's a pretty anemic E motor. On the other end of the spectrum is the G64 that BN150 was talking about.

The other thing that you can do if you put a 29mm motor mount in a rocket is to make a 24mm adapter for it. If you don't want to design one of your own, Aerotech sells a 24mm to 29mm adapter. That way, you can use 24mm motors in a 29mm bird. A lot of Aerotech kits come with a 29mm motor mount (aka mmt) and also have a 24mm adapter included with the kit.

I know that the Cheetah and the Arreaux Aerotech kits come with the 29mm mmt and a 24mm adapter, because I have both of those kits. I'm pretty sure that the Mustang kit has both 24mm mmt and 29mm mmt, too.

Yes, the 24mm Aerotech (aka AT) RMS (Reloadable Motor System) fits in a standard 24mm motor mount.

The only thing you have to be careful with on a 24mm mmt is that there are different length 24mm SU motors. For instance, Estes D impulse motors are 2.75" long, whereas Estes E impulse motors are 3.75" long. If you put a thrust ring in a 24mm mmt at 2.5" for a D impulse motor, then the E impulse hangs out by an inch and a quarter. The thing to do is to either

1 - put no thrust ring in the mmt, and if you use a motor that would normally require a thrust ring wrap enough 1/4" wide masking tape around the nozzle end of the motor to act as a thrust ring

OR

2 - put the thrust ring 3.5" up in the motor tube and then use a 1" adapter (take a burnt D motor and cut 1" of the motor casing and use it as the adapter) when you are going to use a D motor, and leave the adapter out when you are going to use an E motor.

HTH

 

[hokkyokusei]

Personally, I would go with the 24/40 as a first step. It will allow you to learn about assembling reloads and caring for your casing, with the advantage that you may be able to use it in some of your existing rockets. The casing is ideal for some of Estes' bigger rockets such as the Phoenix or Big Daddy (though you may need to add a little nose weight).

The issue of the tight liners is easy to solve. If it feels at all tight when you're pushing in the liner, stop pushing and pull it out. Take a sharp knife and lift a single layer of the outside of the liner where the spiral meets the end of the tube. Peel away a complete layer. The liner will lose that smooth glossy feel, but will slide right into the casing.

 

[ggoldy]

Originally posted by scottluther1369
<caution - newbie ahead> Can you use reusable motors on B, C &D engines for practice in setting them up for working up to Level 1 certification. Is it cheaper to use resuable motors? If this is possible how does one go about it and what are good reusable engines? Do they slip into the engine mounts just like the estes engines?
--Scott

Good answers to your questions except the last, about slipping in the standard 'estes mounts'. The top of the metal engine clip will need to be filed off a bit to allow the ejection cap to pass by. A thin file and a lot of care will do the trick. I prefer a Dremel tool with a small diameter grinding stone. Makes short work of it.