I think that's wise.Stability Modification
2nd guessing stability. I've been stewing over a simple modification that would up those stability numbers.I'll build this rear mounted "Ring Pod"... should be an easy retrofit with the rear eject pod.Thoughts?
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Those use clear fins, which John usually shuns.With upgraded mmts, they both fly well enough
After the MandalorianStability Modification
2nd guessing stability. I've been stewing over a simple modification that would up those stability numbers.I'll build this rear mounted "Ring Pod"... should be an easy retrofit with the rear eject pod.Thoughts?
View attachment 681029
Have you considered using Sonotube and adding a "stabilizing ring"? A ring cut from plywood with the OD to get the tube round and the ID maybe a half inch smaller. Of course, that ring is in the air flow and would have some effect on the efficacy of the ring as a fin, but I bet it would still work.
Good luck.Just got back from the store and I measured some Sonotube... it has roundness issues, like 1/4" out of round. It would work fine for a rocket that has centering rings and a nose cone to force it back into compliance, but it won't work for this application.
I could make the ring from another side wall of a bowl, but plastic in this case is likely going to be to heavy.
I'll take a crack at forming some balsa: (4) plies of 1/16"or (8) plies of 1/32"? Probably 1/32" since I'll be trying to form it the "hard way".
Ring Dimensions: 9.75 I.D. x 10" O.D. x 1.68 Long9.875 x 3.14 = 31" long stripsNeed to make a 9-3/4" diameter x 2" buck to from the balsa around.I'll go back and read @neil_w's thread on making a balsa ring.Edit: Here's the links to making the ring. Only the 1st four apply to making the ring itself.. but I was on a roll a documented the complete ring portion of his build...Done
Why does it have to be a circle? Couldn't it be square or rectangle?Just got back from the store and I measured some Sonotube... it has roundness issues, like 1/4" out of round. It would work fine for a rocket that has centering rings and a nose cone to force it back into compliance, but it won't work for this application.
I could make the ring from another side wall of a bowl, but plastic in this case is likely going to be to heavy.
I'll take a crack at forming some balsa: (4) plies of 1/16"or (8) plies of 1/32"? Probably 1/32" since I'll be trying to form it the "hard way".
Ring Dimensions: 9.75 I.D. x 10" O.D. x 1.68 Long9.875 x 3.14 = 31" long stripsNeed to make a 9-3/4" diameter x 2" buck to from the balsa around.I'll go back and read @neil_w's thread on making a balsa ring.Edit: Here's the links to making the ring. Only the 1st four apply to making the ring itself.. but I was on a roll a documented the complete ring portion of his build...Done
Why does it have to be a circle? Couldn't it be square or rectangle?
True, but that might be easier than rolling balsa into a shape it doesn't like, and may not keep long term.Sure... but then we have to worry about supporting the flat sides to prevent them from flexing during flight.Nothing beats a continuous ring...
+1Why does it have to be a circle? Couldn't it be square or rectangle?
True, sort of. Certainly the pylons function as fins, although in these cases the pylons alone would not provided sufficient stability.@BABAR ... those are all very nice... they all have actual fins, with a box of balsa around them. All that mass isn't needed on this rocket.PS: and the ring fin on this one is slated to be made from balsa... 2 ply's of 1/16" balsa.
Wieght and drag on this oddroc model is already .... Well we should always strive for maximum efficiency! It is rocket science after all.Whatever you think best, obviously. To my eye, that little triangular piece seems like it would weigh less and be less draggy than a dowel for equivalent contact area with the sides.
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Agreed.6 of 1, half a dozen of the other, Joe.
Soaking the outside bend angle with ammonia may also help prevent cracking/splitting, as it softens the lignin in the wood, making it more flexible.@Rktman had a nice trick. He used it for dihedral on gliders
Draw your lines
Don’t cut all the way through the wood. In fact, if you can cut a 1/16 circumference radial pie wedge out.
then BEND the balsa. May want a template piece outside to set the angle. You also maaaay want to put masking tape on the outside,obtuse angle to make sure it doesn’t split.
This works with balsa, bass may be too stiff.
Unbend, put a dab of glue in the divot, and rebend and hold with template.
Add a fillet on inside when done.
Methinks this will be easier, neater, less draggy, then the above. Likely just as strong. Of course you will need at least ONE real joint. This however COULD be done mid fin, perhaps on the backside to hide it.