Question on how to proceed with project

[JoeFilgas]

Hi I’ve completed my Apogee Saturn V, but did some things in finishing before I learned how it should have been done. Have built my second project as well with the same paint, but I’m going to gloss clear that and then install decals with micro set followed by another clear coat. I now know the right way to have done this and that is not my question. I’m looking for recommendations on how to proceed from where I’m at now with the Saturn V. I used a satin Rust Oleum white and black. I also used a Rust Oleum Bright Coat silver (bad idea as I found out too late it won’t accept clear) applied the decals straight onto the rocket (water slide). A couple have come off after they were dry and stuck to my hand. I have re-applied those. At this point would micro set over the top help? Just go to a clear coat when the paint has cured? Other ideas? Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[KenECoyote]

Hi I’ve completed my Apogee Saturn V, but did some things in finishing before I learned how it should have been done. Have built my second project as well with the same paint, but I’m going to gloss clear that and then install decals with micro set followed by another clear coat. I now know the right way to have done this and that is not my question. I’m looking for recommendations on how to proceed from where I’m at now with the Saturn V. I used a satin Rust Oleum white and black. I also used a Rust Oleum Bright Coat silver (bad idea as I found out too late it won’t accept clear) applied the decals straight onto the rocket (water slide). A couple have come off after they were dry and stuck to my hand. I have re-applied those. At this point would micro set over the top help? Just go to a clear coat when the paint has cured? Other ideas? Thanks in advance for any help!

I don't have experience with Microset and others can chime in on that, but do you have any scrap decal or border left over? If so, you can make new decal "glue", by taking the scrap, wetting it a bit, sliding off the scrap decal and using the resulting backing, rub a wet finger to make some more glue and apply where you want the decal to stick. Also decals go over gloss/smooth surfaces better.

Finally, if the grayed silver bothers you, you might want to try respraying the silver (after masking and also test over the clear coat on something first).

Good luck!

 

[Antares JS]

Just go to a clear coat when the paint has cured?

^This. I have a rocket that's almost entirely done in bright coat silver and once the paint is fully cured, it accepts clearcoat fine.

 

[neil_w]

I also used a Rust Oleum Bright Coat silver (bad idea as I found out too late it won’t accept clear)

The issue using clear on metallic paints is that it allegedly dulls the metallic-ness a bit (fluorescents should not be clear-coated for the same reason). But I have done it and it is totally fine. No worries there.

applied the decals straight onto the rocket (water slide). A couple have come off after they were dry and stuck to my hand.

That should never happen. If you could describe (in detail!) your waterslide decal process, maybe we can diagnose why you had this particular problem.

I have re-applied those. At this point would micro set over the top help?

Micro-set is not designed to be applied over the decal. Rather, after the decal has been applied, you can use Micro-sol, which will partially dissolve the decal and make it really settle in and adhere to the surface (particularly good when decal is applied onto a non-smooth surface).

 

[KenECoyote]

The issue using clear on metallic paints is that it allegedly dulls the metallic-ness a bit (fluorescents should not be clear-coated for the same reason).

Agree 99.999%

 

[JoeFilgas]

I don't have experience with Microset and others can chime in on that, but do you have any scrap decal or border left over? If so, you can make new decal "glue", by taking the scrap, wetting it a bit, sliding off the scrap decal and using the resulting backing, rub a wet finger to make some more glue and apply where you want the decal to stick. Also decals go over gloss/smooth surfaces better.

Finally, if the grayed silver bothers you, you might want to try respraying the silver (after masking and also test over the clear coat on something first).

Good luck!

Thanks for the info!

 

[JoeFilgas]

^This. I have a rocket that's almost entirely done in bright coat silver and once the paint is fully cured, it accepts clearcoat fine.

Thanks that’s good to hear!

 

[JoeFilgas]

The issue using clear on metallic paints is that it allegedly dulls the metallic-ness a bit (fluorescents should not be clear-coated for the same reason). But I have done it and it is totally fine. No worries there.

That should never happen. If you could describe (in detail!) your waterslide decal process, maybe we can diagnose why you had this particular problem.

Micro-set is not designed to be applied over the decal. Rather, after the decal has been applied, you can use Micro-sol, which will partially dissolve the decal and make it really settle in and adhere to the surface (particularly good when decal is applied onto a non-smooth surface).

Thank you for the info. When I installed the decals I soaked them water for a few moments (added a couple drops of dish soap to the water). I had wiped the entire rocket as best I could with a damp paper towel and dried with another. Then I slid the decal from its backing onto the rocket surface and positioned. Then I gently blotted, but pressing as hard as I dared, the decal with a paper towel. Then I let it all sit for a couple of days.

 

[KenECoyote]

Thank you for the info. When I installed the decals I soaked them water for a few moments (added a couple drops of dish soap to the water). I had wiped the entire rocket as best I could with a damp paper towel and dried with another. Then I slid the decal from its backing onto the rocket surface and positioned. Then I gently blotted, but pressing as hard as I dared, the decal with a paper towel. Then I let it all sit for a couple of days.

How much water were the decals soaking in? Too much water can dilute the glue. I dip for about 3 seconds, remove and let the wet decal sit on a plastic plate and then check for slide after about 5 minutes.

 

[JoeFilgas]

How much water were the decals soaking in? Too much water can dilute the glue. I dip for about 3 seconds, remove and let the wet decal sit on a plastic plate and then check for slide after about 5 minutes.

Maybe a couple of minutes.

 

[teepot]

I submerge mine in a bowl of water. They curl up at first. When the flatten out I take them out of the water and apply. I read that in some instructions a whole bunch of years ago.

 

[JoeFilgas]

Well after 60 days letting all the paint dry I got the nerve up to test clear my scraps I had made for that purpose. Over the last two days I was able to completely clear coat the Apogee 1/70 Scale Saturn V and save the decals (kind of messed up a couple of tiny roll squares which is where the touch up comes in). I had made a huge error in painting the rocket with satin colors instead of gloss before I had learned the proper finishing techniques. Then I installed the decals and most did not adhere well at all. After much research and contemplation I felt the best course of action would be letting this paint cure completely then lightly mist coating the entire rocket and then continued light mist coats (about 6) over just the decals to hopefully “lock them into the surface. RustOleum told me it wouldn’t work. They also said don’t clear any of the ”Bright Coat” silver I used. Again after some research and a successful test piece I did it anyway. One thing it did was really wash out the silver which now looks really great! On the engine nozzles it pretty much removed the “hammered” look it had, but also toned down those silvers. The decals as far as I can tell are now sealed in. The matte finish really looks great! I’ve got a couple of small touch ups to do tomorrow, but it’s finally done!