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putawaywet

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putawaywet

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Got my Mean machine yesterday.
I'm gonna build it to spec. first and give it a few test runs.
Been doing some research and should get about 600' out of a D12-5 or 1400' out of an E15-7/E30-7.
Question,
I eventualy want to customize this to a 3 stage but specs. require the back centering ring to be nearly flush with bottom of the rocket.I estimate that I'll need at least 3/4 of an inch clearance between the bottom and the back ring to attatch the first two stages.I'm thinking of moving the bottm ring up and adding an additional ring between the two factory rings.This should add some stability and help absorb the shock from the first two ignitions.
Also,I'll need to keep the engine hook on the main body to guarantee chute deployment but this should'nt interfere with 3rd stage ignition.
"Right?"
:kill:

Any input would be appreciated.
 

jflis

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it probably *won't* interefer, but you certainly don't *need* the engine hook there. Many rockets (FlisKits included) use friction fit. On our 2-stage Cheeta and 3 stage Nomad, we use friction fit for the upper (sustainer) stage.

Never had a problem
 
A

Austin

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Good luck on your build and keep us up to date on your progress.

Carl
 

putawaywet

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My Comanche 3 uses friction on all three stages and performs well.I may go that route.
Checked your site and saw several kits that I am interestd in.It will be a while because I've got way too many irons in the fire right now.
Two surfboards being repaired
The Mean machine
New roller guides and wrapping for my trolling rod
Replacing all the no skid on the boat
Cleaning out office
and a myriad of chores my wife wants from me(ha!:rolleyes: )
 

powderburner

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If the little lady ain't happy, NOBODY is happy.

putawaywet, if you want to build 'belt-and-suspenders' style, there is nothing wrong with it. Yes, friction fit works well. And occasionally it doesn't. It won't cost you anything but a little time and a fraction of an ounce to add a motor clip, and it may turn out one day to be the little something extra that saves your rocket. I put in extra clips too. I push the clip gently away while inserting the motor stack, and it springs back into locked position after staging. IMHO, a very good approach.
 

bmhiii

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putawaywet,

After you fly the Mean Machine a hand full of times and want to crank it up a notch, try a Mean Machine CHAD. I flew mine on a D12-0/D12-5 and it was awesome!!!:D

bmhiii

Oh, and welcome to the forum!!
 

jflis

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Originally posted by powderburner
If the little lady ain't happy, NOBODY is happy.

And to quote Jeff Foxworthy: "and if she ain't happy long enough, she ain't happy with half yer stuff"... LOL
 

Rocketjunkie

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Originally posted by bmhiii
putawaywet,

After you fly the Mean Machine a hand full of times and want to crank it up a notch, try a Mean Machine CHAD. I flew mine on a D12-0/D12-5 and it was awesome!!!:D
I've seen a stock Mean Machine CHAD staged D12-0 D12-0 D12-0 D12-7. Stable but slow off the pad. One less D12 for 3 stages works well.
 

Justy

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Originally posted by Rocketjunkie
I've seen a stock Mean Machine CHAD staged D12-0 D12-0 D12-0 D12-7. Stable but slow off the pad. One less D12 for 3 stages works well.
Reminds me of a D12-0 > D12-0 > E9-6 > six grams FFFFG I saw once. Thankfully, it had a staging failure. :)
 

kelltym88

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OK. I'm not new to rocketry, been builing for over 20 yrs. But what is CHAD staging and how does it relate the this thread on the Mean Machine?
As for Mean Machines, I just finished my conversion to a 29mm and added a bulkhead so it can seperate into 2 pieces, much like Jim's Rictor Rector(great kit by the way).

Picture...
 

kelltym88

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And another picture assembled. No it's not pink, it's Raspberry!!!!!
Also my second attempt at adding flames. Very hard to do.
 

jflis

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CHAD staging stands for CHeap And Dirty staging.

What you do is take an over-stable model (like the Mean Machine) and simply tape a booster motor to the motor in the engine mount to make a quick two stage flight without an actual lower stage.

jim
 
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