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PS II Inspired Black Brant V

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jqavins

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My BT55-60 Apache taught me that I wanted to be a bit bigger than BT60. I never claim to be more than sport scale.
I would do it sport scale in that I'm not interested in doing the fiddly details or perfect paint jobs. I would just want to get the sizes right if I'm going to be stacking them.
 

Bruiser

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Painting is done. Now I need to get those decals done :)

Painting Done.jpg


I have a half built Semroc Nike-Tomahawk. I started it when I was on my 1/10th scale phase. The Tomahawk is built and the Nike is mostly done. I built it as a two stage that using gap staging to ignite the sustainer. The booster engine would ignite the sustainer and also push the motor mount out of the booster for rear ejection. It seemed like a great idea and other people have done it. Then I ran into problems with the inter stage coupler and it's still waiting for me to sort those problems out. It's hard to stage small rockets...

-Bob
 

Charles_McG

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That looks nicely painted.

I can't believe I left the Ute/Paiute booster out of my table! 15" OD, Big Daddy 3" tubing for 1:5.0.

And Joe, there definitely a satisfaction in winding ones' own tubing. But not so much that I want to do it all the time :) In particular, while I'm ok with cutting a slice out of tube and re-gluing to make a tubing coupler, I'm less happy doing that for the interstage coupler. So far, those are all purchased couplers on my rockets. Hmmm... that's not quite true - the Talos - Terrier interstage is 3D printed with a coupler core - the outer diameter is printed and lined with a section of body tube to lend strength to the print.

Apologies for cluttering your thread with chatter on adjacent topics, Joe.
 

jqavins

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Painting is done. Now I need to get those decals done :)

View attachment 442725
Nice looking paint job. Nice looking rocket all around.
I have a half built Semroc Nike-Tomahawk. I started it when I was on my 1/10th scale phase. The Tomahawk is built and the Nike is mostly done. I built it as a two stage that using gap staging to ignite the sustainer. The booster engine would ignite the sustainer and also push the motor mount out of the booster for rear ejection. It seemed like a great idea and other people have done it. Then I ran into problems with the inter stage coupler and it's still waiting for me to sort those problems out.
That's the plan for the 2 stage conversion of my Quest kit. I've got all the details worked out really nicely. The interstage is the plastic one from the kit. Then I realized that a C6-0 in the Terrier won't get me sufficient speed off the launch rod. A Q-jet could do the job, but not the staging. I'll start all over with a 24 mm mount in the Terrier and a D12-0 will get it going safely. I miss the B14-0. (I never even flew one, and I miss it.)

Apologies for cluttering your thread with chatter on adjacent topics, Joe.
Um, it's Bob's thread. So I guess I should stop the threadjacking too.
 

Bruiser

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I printed some decals last night and I put them on today. The first one I tried was the temperature data that goes by the motor. I put it in the water and counted to 15. Just as I went to pick it up the print turned into a cloud and was gone. After rubbing my eyes a few times only to open them and see a blank paper did I realize that I forgot to clear coat them :)

I clear coated them and thankfully I had printed an extra of the one that vaporized so I started with that one. I put on both of them and three rows of rivits. It all went great until about three hours later when I noticed the first decal I put on had lifted off and was all wrinkled. The others are on but the other temperature decal seems lifted at the corners. I have some microsol and micro set so I need to learn how to apply them. I think they will solve the issue.

I did print up another of the bad decal and I designed and printed up a few more decals. I also clear coated them so they will be ready in the morning. Heading over to you tube now to learn about the "micro" products.

-Bob
 

Bruiser

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I checked out the other temperature decal this morning and it has lifted on the edges.
Decal Lift.jpg


I have applied some micro sol and so far it seems to be settling back down. The rivet decals seem fine but I went ahead and applied some micr sol to them as well.

I plan on using the micro set and micro sol when I re-apply the other temp decal and the payload area decals later on. Watched several You Tube videos so I should be good to go :)

-Bob
-Bob
 

Bruiser

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I have all the decals on and have been working on the antennas that are just below the nose cone. I can't believe how much trouble they are giving me!

My only small bottles of paint are enamels so when I mess up the paint I have to let it dry for a day, repaint the base coat, let it dry for a day and then try again...

Almost time to spray the clear coat. I think I am going gloss. I had thought about matte but since Black Brant rockets were specifically made as sounding rockets I figure they more than likely got gloss paint.

I think I am still on track for having it done buy the end of the year.

-Bob
 

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This last few things have been quite problematic.

First I went to paint the simulated fasteners on the fin can. I was using a toothpick with enamel paint. THis has always worked great in getting consistant circles in the past, but not this time. Not only was I getting different sizes but a few has runs. I sprayed some of the red paint into a lid and tried to touch up the areas and I ran into the "lacquer won't go over enamel" problem. I ended upremoving the black paint and respraying the red. I bought some acrylic black and repainted the fasteners this morning.

I also felt safe to glue on the telemetry antennas today so I did. That went well.

The last thing was spray on the clear coat. I started prepping the rocket and I noticed one of the UNITED STATES decals had lifted around the edges and had wrinkles. It came right off. So now I need to make a new decal, clear coat and get it installed. I hope to get that done tonight. I jut don't understand why I am having so many problems with these decals. I did buy some new decal paper so maybe that will break the curse...

-Bob
 

Bruiser

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Problems with decals continue into today. I printed up the new decals on the Sunnyscopa paper yesterday and gave them two coats of Krylon clear. They came out much better than they printed on the Tamiya paper. The top is the Testors paper. You can see how it looks cracked. It came out of the printer that way.

UNITED.jpg


I went to put the new decal on this morning and it didn't cooperate. I soaked it for about 15 seconds and tried to install it. As soon as my finger touched it, the ink started going away where my finger was. I took it off and started thinking of what to do.

I had made a spare decal and decided to give that decal a heavy coat of clear. I let it dry for a few hours and tried again. This time everything went good and I am on track for clear coating the rocket tomorrow.

Have I mentioned decals hate me...

-Bob
 

jqavins

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You're makimg me think nice thoughts about lettering stencils. And StickerShock.
 

PeterAlway

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OK, looking at the image here, I agree that the firing and storage temperature looks more like -10 to +mumblesomething than +10 to +mumblesomething. I don't know if I had a better source to work from, or if I had been up too late the night I drew it, and the - blurred into a+. I am ashamed to announce here publicly that I am, and have in the past, been fallible. Worse yet, I expect to be in the future. I do hope to be more honest about my fallibility in my drawings, though.
 

Bruiser

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NOOOOOOOO! I am not taking the +10 decals off, making -10 decals and installing them. Nope. not doing it.

My decal troubles continue. So three hours later I check on the newly installed decal and see this!

S.jpg


That was the worse area. Does anyone know if decals and lacquer paint don't get along? Just asking because this is the second time I have made decals. The first was on the Rocketerium Black Brant 5 that I built. It was painted with enamel (Rustoleum 2X) and they worked great. This rocket is painted with automotive lacquer...

Anyway, I went at the decal with Micro Set and the decals laid back down. I'll check on it again before bed.

Errrrrrr,
-Bob
 

David_Stack

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Good Morning Bob;

Sorry to read of your continuing finishing issues with this Black Brant...

I have used "Expert's Choice" decal paper from Bare Metal and had good results. Printer is an HP OfficeJet. I lightly clear-coated using the Testors product specifically designed for that purpose. Decals were applied over DupliColor Perfect Match lacquer (and eventually received a final coat of clear lacquer, also DupliColor).

IMG_0339.JPGIMG_0340.JPGIMG_0342.JPG

Hope you are able to overcome these challenges (If interested, send me a file and I'll print some up on my stock and send them to you for a trial)

r/
Dave
 

Bruiser

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Thank you David for your offer but I think I made some headway today. While wiping it down preparing to spray clear coat today I noticed one of the old decals had rolled up a little. I got out the red bottle of micro whatever and was able to get it back down. I waited a little to allow some dry time them sprayed the clear coat. It's in my office at work drying overnight so I'll know for sure how it came out in the morning. Everything looked good before I left so I am hopeful. I'll have pictures tomorrow.

-Bob
 

Bruiser

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Sorry, didn't get by the office yesterday but I came in early today to look it over and get a picture. I think it came out well. One of the screw decals rolled just a little but I think it'll be a pretty easy fix.

Painted.jpg


That pretty much wraps this build up. I still need to sew up the harness but it'll be the same as my others so nothing to really see there.

Thanks for following along,
-Bob
 

Ez2cDave

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Sorry, didn't get by the office yesterday but I came in early today to look it over and get a picture. I think it came out well. One of the screw decals rolled just a little but I think it'll be a pretty easy fix.

View attachment 445269

That pretty much wraps this build up. I still need to sew up the harness but it'll be the same as my others so nothing to really see there.

Thanks for following along,
-Bob
Bob,

Beautiful !

When is the maiden flight and what motor will you be using ?

Dave F.

DSCN2062 - ADJ.jpg



DSCN2065 - ADJ.jpg



DSCN2064 - ADJ.jpg



FIN DETAIL - VC.JPG



NOSE CONE DETAIL.JPG



NOSE CONE DETAIL - 2.JPG




TAIL ASSEMBLY - VC.JPG



Screenshot_20191008-215623.jpg



BlackBrantV.JPG



MPE LOGO - ADJ.jpg
 
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Bruiser

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The club launches on the third Saturday of the month so the first possible launch date I am looking at is January 16th. If the environmental conditions are good I'll give it a go. I have a F50 and a F67 SU motors hanging around that I bought for my not-yet-launched Ventris clone. Either motor should be good for it. I think that I was getting more altitude with the F50 than the F67 when I simmed it in OR.

The problem is that I live in the desert. The launch area is desert filled with mesquite trees, cactus, barb wire fences and dirt. Mornings are pretty calm but the breeze grows as the morning goes by. First launches are normally around 9, maybe 9:30 some days and it's usually not to windy yet. I have my JLCR now so I don't have to worry too much about hiking but I put a lot of time into the rocket's finish and I don't want it to be dragged across the desert getting damaged.

Right now I am working on repairing a sport rocket just in case so I can launch something. This happened at the November launch
Ven.jpg


-Bob
 

Bruiser

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Yep, just as I remembered. The F50-6 is 1377 and the F67 is 1117 feet

I'll try to get it in flight condition some time this week so I can check the weight and the CG against OR and adjust as needed.

-Bob
 

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Black Brant was a no-go today. I was finishing it up yesterday, installing the recovery harness, chute and nose cone when I discovered the nosecone fit very snug. I sanded the NC shoulder and it was still snug so I started sanding the inside of the body tube. I had hardened it previously with some thin CA and it was smoothing out nicely. Ten I moved my hand and one of the screw head decals came off the rocket. I looked at the decal below it and that decal was lifting at the edges. This really surprised me as I had clear coated the rocket after I put the decals on.

So now I am going to check all the decals and replace any that pull off with new decals. I also need to finish up the nose cone fitting. Since the monthly launch was today, I now have a month to straighten it out.

-Bob
 

Ez2cDave

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Black Brant was a no-go today. I was finishing it up yesterday, installing the recovery harness, chute and nose cone when I discovered the nosecone fit very snug. I sanded the NC shoulder and it was still snug so I started sanding the inside of the body tube. I had hardened it previously with some thin CA and it was smoothing out nicely. Ten I moved my hand and one of the screw head decals came off the rocket. I looked at the decal below it and that decal was lifting at the edges. This really surprised me as I had clear coated the rocket after I put the decals on.

So now I am going to check all the decals and replace any that pull off with new decals. I also need to finish up the nose cone fitting. Since the monthly launch was today, I now have a month to straighten it out.

-Bob
So, compared to water-slide decals "back in the day", why don't the new ones stick and stay put ?

Dave F.
 

Bruiser

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I really don't know. These were custom made on Testors paper and I had used paper from this package to make the decals for my Rocketarium Black Brant 5 build. They worked without issue on that build but have been problematic on this build. I even used microsol and microset on this build. I mean I even had problems with the quality of the print on the decals this time around.

The first decal that I had problems with was the UNITED STATES decal. Print quality was poor but I decided to use it anyway. It just wouldn't stay stuck. I bought some Sunnyscopa paper and printed another (see post 69) and it has worked good. I just need to print out all the decals again on the Sunnyscopa paper and replace the decals printed on Testors paper. Apparently it went bad sitting in my house for the last year or so.

-Bob
 

jqavins

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Was it the same paint underneath with both of the builds mentioned above? Does anybody have any wisdom as to some paints that allow decals to adhere better than others? Paint brands and/or types, that is.
 

Bruiser

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Joe,

I think I did mention in an earlier post (#73) that the first rocket was painted with Rustoleum 2x and this rocket was painted with DupliColor Perfect MAtch Lacquer. A change in the surface doesn't explain the problem with the print quality though (post #69) .

These problems are why I bought a cricut machine so I could make masks to paint details on. Unfortunately it only cuts letters out so small...

-Bob
 

John Brohm

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To me it sounds like the decal adhesive on this particular sheet of paper is a bit dodgy, or perhaps too much adhesive was lost while wetting the decal. MicroSet won't solve that problem; it relies on residual adhesive to do its job. You might want to try adding some adhesive to solve the problem.

Decal Adhesive (tamiya.com)

Available on Amazon and a number of on-line hobby stores.
 

Bruiser

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Hello John,

Thanks for that post. I thought one of the "micro" products was some sort of adhesive. I will get some of the Tamiya adhesive. I think I saw some at Hobby Lobby a few days ago. I want to have it on hand for the next go-around just in case :)

-Bob
 

John Brohm

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I hope it all works out, Bob. You have a very nice Black Brant going on there. I particularly like the job you've done on the metallic sections of the payload. Looking forward to the flight results!
 

Bruiser

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John, thank you for your kind words. I didn't really want to use metallics on those areas but I couldn't find any metal colored paints in a lacquer. I did end up using metallics but I took a green scrub pad to the areas to "tone" them down just a little.

I will get the decals sorted out. I am working on my version of the Lockheed Cuda right now but I will take a break from that in a week or two and come back to this.

-Bob
 
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