3D Printing Prusa MK4

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I find small objects do not stick to the textured sheet. I'll use smooth sheet for those.

The object should be 3 inches or more in diameter to stick well. Adding wide brims will help.

I rarely use the textured sheet. The Satin sheet is the best of both worlds - I use it 99% of the time - they're very nice - highly recommended!
You can also try a spray of aquanet.
 
You can also try a spray of aquanet.
Like the slower first layer print speed, I haven't tried Aquanet either. I remember reading about it when I first started printing but I did not have any adhesion issues with the smooth bed – if anything, I had problems getting prints off the bed. (Windex was the solution there.) I looked up Auqanet on Wikipedia and under the 'Alternative uses' on the Wikipedia page, it has this list:

Besides hairstyling, Aqua Net has been used: (links removed from Wikipedia source)
  • as a fixative in microbiology, typically during staining procedures;
  • as a fixative for charcoal or pastel artworks;
  • by ballerinas, to reduce slippage of pointe shoe ribbons;
  • for stiffening or straightening crinolines, skirts and tulle;
  • as a solvent for un-gluing hair extensions;
  • as a stain remover for makeup;
  • as an insect killer;
  • as a propellant in potato cannons;
  • as an inhalant in recreational substance abuse;
  • for increasing print adhesion in 3D Printing.
It appears to be very versatile! I'll have to track some down and give it a shot, literally. The stuff we do to get stuff to work.


Tony
 
Aquanet is a great bed adhesive and it helps protect the bed as a release layer which over adhesive filaments.
 
I think it depend on the printer,
That is a good point. The auto bed leveling of the MK4 produces a “one size fits all” z adjustment regardless of the material. On the manual bed leveling printers I calibrate with the nozzle closer to the bed for PETG to get it to stick better. The MK4 auto level might be a little too high for PETG especially with textured sheets where the material does not get pressed down as much. The MK4 supposedly has a live z adjustment you can access by pressing and holding the knob during the first layer. It is a temporary offset so you would have to do it on every print. I have never tried it, but it might be another way to get PETG to stick better.
 
That is a good point. The auto bed leveling of the MK4 produces a “one size fits all” z adjustment regardless of the material. On the manual bed leveling printers I calibrate with the nozzle closer to the bed for PETG to get it to stick better. The MK4 auto level might be a little too high for PETG especially with textured sheets where the material does not get pressed down as much. The MK4 supposedly has a live z adjustment you can access by pressing and holding the knob during the first layer. It is a temporary offset so you would have to do it on every print. I have never tried it, but it might be another way to get PETG to stick better.
I'm not entirely sure. I have three MKs. Two of them (upgrades) stick too much with ABS, so I have had to use a razor blade with one brand to get them off. The third is perfect (factory-built). I have thought about swapping plates.

I do not have the same issue with some brands on an X1C also. I can't say that it is as severe.

One possibility is that it is the age of the plates (for me).
 
My satin sheet never has a problem w PETG sticking. Like Prusa says: The MK4 has a perfect first layer every time!

The Live Z-calibration is permanent on my MK3 and MK4.

The textured sheet in another matter - not much sticks to it without help.

Aquanet (unscented) did help on my old glass bed.
 
10+ prints on my Mk4s today. I did not use Auqanet, but the filament was brand new. I found that my prints stick better if I thoroughly cleaned my nozzle before printing—just something to check on your next print.
 
10+ prints on my Mk4s today. I did not use Auqanet, but the filament was brand new. I found that my prints stick better if I thoroughly cleaned my nozzle before printing—just something to check on your next print.
Thanks for that. Can you describe your nozzle cleaning process?


Tony
 
Thanks for that. Can you describe your nozzle cleaning process?


Tony
I don't know if it will work for you, but I changed something on my XL and Mk4s this weekend. I noticed that I had poor adhesion with my XL on several prints. None of the lines were merged/fused. Then it happened on my MK4. I switched to my Satin plates, which were less pronounced but still there.

There was a small, minute amount of filament pre-printing during leveling on all of the printers. I removed the filament with tweezers to ensure the leveling was more accurate. It has made a 100% difference.
 
I don't know if it will work for you, but I changed something on my XL and Mk4s this weekend. I noticed that I had poor adhesion with my XL on several prints. None of the lines were merged/fused. Then it happened on my MK4. I switched to my Satin plates, which were less pronounced but still there.

There was a small, minute amount of filament pre-printing during leveling on all of the printers. I removed the filament with tweezers to ensure the leveling was more accurate. It has made a 100% difference.
I mostly use PETG and as you know, it oozes like crazy. I suspect I've had the same issue – some filament 'ooze' interfering with good bed leveling. I have a pair of long, sharp needle nose plies that should work well to clean the nozzle right before leveling.

Thanks for the tip.


Tony
 
I mostly use PETG and as you know, it oozes like crazy. I suspect I've had the same issue – some filament 'ooze' interfering with good bed leveling. I have a pair of long, sharp needle nose plies that should work well to clean the nozzle right before leveling.

Thanks for the tip.


Tony
I hope it works for you also. I notice that I only have this issue with PETG. Not ABS or nylon.
 
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