Problem - Bolt Corners Rounded Off

[CORZERO]

Well, the things I tried didn't work. Heat gun, propane torch, Craftsman damaged bolt head remover, etc. The result is an almost polished round bolt head.

Looks like I'm cutting/grinding it off.

I picked up a 4-1/2" angle grinder from HF. Anyone have any tips for this stage? Cut the bolt head off then grind or grind only?

Greg

Heat gun ad propane are a waste of time. You need oxy-acetylene and a pipe wrench with some leverage (steel pipe over the handle). If that doesn't work, why waste your time with anything else?

https://www.partshotlines.com/component/phl/search/

$60 for the spindle and you already have the bearings. I'd wager to say with a local yard search you could score a spindle for half that. Half-ton Chevys are ubiquitous. Just don't round off anything else during the replacement

 

[jd2cylman]

Immediately after cutting the bolt head off, start touching the cut off stuck portion with the remains of a nice quality wax candle. The wax liquefies, and creeps into the threads. That's how we extract rusted bolts and nuts and has a high rate of success. If you have access to a welder, weld a nut to the cut off bolt. This serves two purposes. First, a new hex to turn, and second, it warms up the threaded portion. If you have the room, you can use a bigger nut than the original head. Just don't weld the nut to the frame. You'll be welding in a small hole, so a MIG welder works best. Hope these ideas help.

 

[GregGleason]

Victory!



I ground off most of the head and ground a slot (all of this done with a cutting wheel) into the bolt, like a large screw. I then used a cold chisel and a 3 lb sledge to bang into one side of the slot until it began to turn. I was relieved when it began moving.

The rotor was placed and the brakes were mounted and torqued. After the tire was mounted, we took it for a test drive. It drove well and it fixed the "turbo" noise coming from the front of the vehicle. I appreciate all of the input and I am glad that this challenge was won!

Greg

 

[Lowpuller]

Yahoo!

 

[dixontj93060]

Speedout

[YOUTUBE]kaWqBTN79zo[/YOUTUBE]

 

[GregGleason]

Speedout

[YOUTUBE]kaWqBTN79zo[/YOUTUBE]

Ha Ha! I actually bought that set a while back, even though I haven't used it. I'm glad I didn't have to go the bolt extractor route. Even the diamond cutting wheel on my Dremel was making very slow progress on that steel.

Greg

 

[byoungblood]

Another suggestion for future reference, you can take a cheap socket and weld it to the bolt head. Then attach a breaker bar (and cheater, if needed) and have at it. Works great for studs that nothing else will work on too.

This is also a reason why an impact gun is very handy. Many times the hammering force can break a stuck nut or bolt free. If you can't get an impact on it (or don't have one) a combination wrench and dead blow can also help knock stuck fasteners free.

 

[Woody's Workshop]

Glad to see you were Victorious!
Somehow, I just new it would include a Chisel.

Victory!

View attachment 310089

I ground off most of the head and ground a slot (all of this done with a cutting wheel) into the bolt, like a large screw. I then used a cold chisel and a 3 lb sledge to bang into one side of the slot until it began to turn. I was relieved when it began moving.

The rotor was placed and the brakes were mounted and torqued. After the tire was mounted, we took it for a test drive. It drove well and it fixed the "turbo" noise coming from the front of the vehicle. I appreciate all of the input and I am glad that this challenge was won!

Greg

 

[Tonimus]

Congrats on getting it off. I'm surprised no one mentioned the pound a socket on. For a 15mm, I'd get a cheap 6 point 9/16" socket and beat the thing on. Usually works pretty well. That's how you get wheel locks off that you can't find the key for.

 

[jd2cylman]

Always use 6pt sockets when possible. And ALWAYS double check the torque spec!
As far as rounded heads/nuts go, again using a 6pt socket, try the next smaller size (keep in mind it may not be metric or standard) and use a hammer to pound the socket over head/nut. Then loosen carefully...

Congrats on getting it off. I'm surprised no one mentioned the pound a socket on. For a 15mm, I'd get a cheap 6 point 9/16" socket and beat the thing on. Usually works pretty well. That's how you get wheel locks off that you can't find the key for.

oint: oint:

 

[GregGleason]

I think this bolt was too hardened to do that. I split one socket in the process. I figured it must have been near the spec torque. I'm just glad I got it out!

Greg

 

[Tonimus]

oint: oint:

Oi! I wasn't wearing glasses!

 

[OverTheTop]

Someone suggested earlier to weld a nut on. Based on my tools and skillset that is the approach I would take.

Tactics depend on what you have available.

 

[GregGleason]

Someone suggested earlier to weld a nut on. Based on my tools and skillset that is the approach I would take.

Tactics depend on what you have available.

If I had those tools and skillset I would have done that, too.

Greg