3D Printing Printing Materials for High-power

[ZeroGPrints]

I recently got my L1, and I am now entering the world of 3d printed high-power rocketry. I have mostly used PETG for my rockets. I am wondering if that is sufficient for high-power, or if I should get something like PC. I do have some ABS I have been trying, but I have yet to get sufficient layer adhesion for rocket flights. Should I stick to PETG, try to work out ABS, get some PC, or something else. Any insight would be appreciated.

 

[OzHybrid]

I recently got my L1, and I am now entering the world of 3d printed high-power rocketry. I have mostly used PETG for my rockets. I am wondering if that is sufficient for high-power, or if I should get something like PC. I do have some ABS I have been trying, but I have yet to get sufficient layer adhesion for rocket flights. Should I stick to PETG, try to work out ABS, get some PC, or something else. Any insight would be appreciated.

PETG is a pretty good choice for a lot of HPR requirements.

If you want to print ABS you NEED the following

A filament dryer. I use the cheap Sunlu one with the built in fan. Au$50.

An enclosed printer.

Turn the part cooling fan OFF
Set the printing line width of your printer to 10-20% larger than your nozzle diameter. This forces more ABS down into the previous layer, making the interlayer bonding better.
Print 1 part at a time if possible. This prevents cooling of the previous layer due to travel time to other parts.
A heated bed temperature of 95-105 deg C. The bed also heats the chamber of the enclosed printer, but does not temperature control the chamber temp.
Good ventilation. Don't print in your bedroom. Fumes are bad for you. But don't use a fan to blow the fumes away. Keep the printer out of drafts.
Do NOT open the printer for a look during printing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ideally anneal the part afterwards. 90deg C in an oven for 8-12 hours.

Or buy a Bambu P1S and use the default settings. It prints ABS out of the box......

 

[ZeroGPrints]

PETG is a pretty good choice for a lot of HPR requirements.

If you want to print ABS you NEED the following

A filament dryer. I use the cheap Sunlu one with the built in fan. Au$50.

An enclosed printer.

Turn the part cooling fan OFF
Set the printing line width of your printer to 10-20% larger than your nozzle diameter. This forces more ABS down into the previous layer, making the interlayer bonding better.
Print 1 part at a time if possible. This prevents cooling of the previous layer due to travel time to other parts.
A heated bed temperature of 95-105 deg C. The bed also heats the chamber of the enclosed printer, but does not temperature control the chamber temp.
Good ventilation. Don't print in your bedroom. Fumes are bad for you. But don't use a fan to blow the fumes away. Keep the printer out of drafts.
Do NOT open the printer for a look during printing!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ideally anneal the part afterwards. 90deg C in an oven for 8-12 hours.

Or buy a Bambu P1S and use the default settings. It prints ABS out of the box......

I currently have a bambu lab p1s but i still have had issues. I will look into printing one part at a time and filament drying. I have been using bambu abs with the default profile.

 

[OverTheTop]

3D printed parts can be acceptable as long as they are designed for the relevant material properties, including strength. You might have to do things differently than they were done before, but it is really just another set of materials/processes.

I have used ABS successfully for nosecones, transitions, Vertical Trajectory System (including canards). Resin prints can be even better if you have such a printer.

 

[OzHybrid]

I currently have a bambu lab p1s but i still have had issues. I will look into printing one part at a time and filament drying. I have been using bambu abs with the default profile.

You could just dry the filament in the oven @50degC for a few hours and use it as a test. Dry filament makes a massive difference to the consistency of all printing, regardless of the material. If you've not got material consistency, it's impossible to dial the print settings in properly.
Here's my settings.
Check your part cooling fan is set to 0. ABS doesn't like getting cold.
I'm using the textured plate with external brim of 8mm with 0mm part gap for part adhesion (turn auto off) Also keep parts away from the front Bambu door. I'm NOT using any glue on the bed.

 

[JohnCoker]

Some data: https://www.jcrocket.com/printed-components.shtml

 

[ZeroGPrints]

Some data: https://www.jcrocket.com/printed-components.shtml

Yeah I have looked at your website before and it has some useful data. My problem is that the layer adhesion for abs is problematic for functional parts.

 

[OzHybrid]

Yeah I have looked at your website before and it has some useful data. My problem is that the layer adhesion for abs is problematic for functional parts.

I've printed 3 versions of your AV Bay. 2 are annealing, 1 is not. Can you reply to the PM I sent.
I'll test them tomorrow.

 

[JohnCoker]

Yeah I have looked at your website before and it has some useful data. My problem is that the layer adhesion for abs is problematic for functional parts.

Interesting. I've not had problems with ABS myself, but I know PETG is easier to print and would love to see the results replicated for that filament.

 

[cwbullet]

No problems with ABS, but I print most with PETG, PLA+ and Polycarbonate Blend. I do dry all filaments over night in a photography dry box.

 

[ZeroGPrints]

I was able to get this issue mostly resolved, thanks to @OzHybrid. Thanks for all the insight.

 

[kramer714]

Been printing and flying parts on high powered rockets using PETG for years with VERY good results. Couple of things

Annealing can be used to improve strength and dimensional stability
Dry filaments are important, a filament dryer is cheep and very useful.
Design for the materials, shapes that are fine for plywood or fiberglass may not work for 3d printing without changing the dimensions.
I (almost) never do parts with partial infill. I design ribs in and print 100% fill. Much better strength that way.


Mike K