3D Printing Printing Centering Rings for A-D powered rockets out of PLA?
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I used PLA in the beginning but had some parts melt -- I cannot recall if they were centering rings exclusively or motor mounts but I have moved over to ABS. Once I put an enclosure around my 3D printer it is very reliable with ABS.
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I would also look into PETG and Nylon for centering rings.
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I used pla+ centring rings and motor tube on my L1 cert, worked fine. Only flown once so doesn't really answer your question.
hermanjc
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I have used PLA for centering rings on a couple 24mm motor mounts and a 3 motor cluster pod. Heat from launches hasn't been an issue so far, but I take care to keep my rockets out of the sun as best I can. Printing thick helps prevent warping in momentary exposure.
I do print rings but the larger diameter rings I cut with the laser.
It will warp and it will warp bad. It is not the sun light. It is the heat in a car over time. I put a piece in my car for one week. Temperatures 92-96 F all week. Temps reached 143-150F in my car. All PLA+, PLA, LW-PLA-HT parts warped. PETG did not warp at all.
That was round but it wrapped between the supports.
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Some blends of Nylon, maybe just maybe ABS - look at the deflection temp rating.
FDM is basically a hot glue gun - it melts the filament in order to "print". Partial melt, i.e. deflection temp, will obviously be lower than the nozzle temp used by the printer. The lower it is, the easier for it to deform it, and if you can deform it in the heat of a car, then it'll deform with the heat of a rocket motor (up to 220C on outside of the motor casing is allowed), and the heat from the BP ejection charge.
FDM is basically a hot glue gun - it melts the filament in order to "print". Partial melt, i.e. deflection temp, will obviously be lower than the nozzle temp used by the printer. The lower it is, the easier for it to deform it, and if you can deform it in the heat of a car, then it'll deform with the heat of a rocket motor (up to 220C on outside of the motor casing is allowed), and the heat from the BP ejection charge.
Do you guys all print solid centering rings (i.e., basically like a plywood ring)?
I have been printing frame structures instead. My assumption is that they are stronger, less prone to warping, and benefit from having a larger contact surface with the tubes or fins they are inside/around and glued to. I do add a thin (usually 1-2mm) solid layer if I need to seal off the opening (e.g., at top of stuffer tube).
I have not compared print speed, strength, or weight so wondering folks thoughts on the two styles.
Here is an example of my centering rings in the [in-progress] BT-80 A-10.
I have been printing frame structures instead. My assumption is that they are stronger, less prone to warping, and benefit from having a larger contact surface with the tubes or fins they are inside/around and glued to. I do add a thin (usually 1-2mm) solid layer if I need to seal off the opening (e.g., at top of stuffer tube).
I have not compared print speed, strength, or weight so wondering folks thoughts on the two styles.
Here is an example of my centering rings in the [in-progress] BT-80 A-10.
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Interesting I have only done solid like plywood. Cool idea. I like it.
I have used PLA for stuff in the past (gets hot here in the summer in KY, and I had a fin can warp in the car). Lately I have been printing ABS, PC or ASA (have a CF ASA I have gotten dialed in here recently). I usually would print centering rings as 100% infill with 3 shells and thicker than normal. Even with PLA never had a problem (was probably over doing it)
I like it very much! Would be light, yet strong.
Is the rear ring not filled in order to save weight? Where as the front ring has to seal off the chamber for the ejection charge?
Would love to get my hands on those! Parametric would be awesome.
I love 3D printing but I love my laser also and it's awesome for rings and fins. So fast and easy.
Thanks. Yes, just did not seem necessary to close the rear one but close the front one to seal ejection charge and make it easier to add dog barf / wadding.
When I want to really make light centering rings I do 2mm plywood.
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