Primer

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I used kilz primer on my rocket and it stuck to everything. I did not use it on the nose cone though and have not tried but kilz works quite well

Matt
 
Thanks! I forgot the stuff i used but it crackled and some pieces fell off.Alex:eek:
 
I use the Filler Primer from Walmart. It's a high solids primer and coats thick. Used to us Duplicolor thick primer, but most places seemed to stop carrying it. The walmart stuff is half the price, but is doesn't spray too well, lots of splatter. That is ok, since the point of the filler primer is to sand it down again anyway.
 
I also like Rustoleum gray primer. Goes on beautifully and sands great.
 
I use the Rustoleum filler primer found in the automotive section of Wal-Mart. Bonds to everything well except for unprepped Loc and Aerotech nose cones (these should be sanded to make a better bonding surface).
 
My all around favorite primer is Duplicolor sandable primer/filler. it is a high build primer meant to fill in the finer imperfections in autobody repair and it works great for rockets.

I see that Rust-Oleum is popular in these parts. I have only one experience in my entire life with Rust-Oleum rattle can primer. I repaired a rust spot on my 1977 Eldorado (in 1989) and primed it with rust-Oleum. The Duplicolor paint fish-eyed. If you are using Rust-Oleum color than I would recommend Rust-Oleum primer. I would actually recommend that you stick with the same brand and line of paint from primer up through clear coat. There is some cross compatibility from brand to brand and experience will tell which brands are compatible with others.

Just FYI, Dupicolor is Owned by Sherwin Williams as is Krylon. I would look into the compatibility of these two brands. I know that Ace Hardware Store brand paint applies well over Duplicolor primer and I have been told by the guy at the local Ace Hardware store that Ace Hardware Store brand paint is just relabled Krylon for $2 per can less.
 
I have experienced no problems with painting Krylon over Rustoleum sandable primer.
 
For nose cones or Quantum Tube, get a solvent cleaner and bumper primer. They are specifically made for getting automotive paint to stick to plastic parts. The solvent is needed to get rid of any mold release left from the molding process and the bumper primer adheres to plastic better than regular primer.
 
For nose cones or Quantum Tube, get a solvent cleaner and bumper primer. They are specifically made for getting automotive paint to stick to plastic parts. The solvent is needed to get rid of any mold release left from the molding process and the bumper primer adheres to plastic better than regular primer.

Scrubbing with hot, soapy water is an easy way to do this, as well. Once it's cleaned, do not touch it with bare hands.

-Kevin
 
Not sure if it's the best solution, but it's worked for me... I "prime" my nose cones with Krylon Fusion paint (which is supposedly made for plastics), then use a compatible primer over the top of that. Downside is that the Fusion paint suggests recoat within 24 hours or after 7 days. It also says maximum chip resistance in 7 days, so I wait at least a week before putting anything on top of it.


:2:
 
For nose cones or Quantum Tube, get a solvent cleaner and bumper primer. They are specifically made for getting automotive paint to stick to plastic parts. The solvent is needed to get rid of any mold release left from the molding process and the bumper primer adheres to plastic better than regular primer.

Larry,

Where do you get the solvent and what is it called and the bumper primer too? Thanks Alex
 
I just painted my PML Quantum Tube and nosecone with Rustoleum Plastic Primer, and so far so good.

This is a night rocket, so the primer coat needs to be clean as I am spraying Valspar Glow-in-the-Dark paint over it and it is translucent.

I cover the "flat" glow paint with Rust-oleum Crystal Clear Enamel.

This worked great on another rocket using Rust-oleum Clean Metal primer (before I saw the Plastic primer) with no issues.

Alien_LEDs.jpg
 
I use a couple different primers depending on the job. For small jobs I use Dupli-color hi build primer. If I have a lot of priming to do I use automotive lacquer primer in a spray gun. If I am filling the weave on a fiberglass rocket I use a 2 part hi build automotive primer, this stuff fills the weave fast but you will need a good respirator.

Also for plastic nose cones I wet sand in a water and ivory dish soap solution. Rinse off and let dry. Now it is ready for primer. Doing this process I have never had the paint come off. This is just using dupli-color or automotive laquer primer.
 
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I've never primered any of my rockets in the past and should do so from now on. What kind of grit do you guys use to sand after?
 
I also use the Rustoleum Gray Primer but have on occasion used other colors as well.

I sand with 220-320-400 and occasionally with 600 if I'm really looking for a glassy look. It's probably overkill but my motto is "Some is good, more is better, too much is JUST ENOUGH".
 
I too use Duplicolor hi-solids primer....but have also used Rustoleum and the results were pretty much the same.

Just a note ,in case it was not mentioned ,although I`m sure many of the savy rocket guys know this ,but it`s important to wash the nose cones first in soapy water before you do any kind of sanding.If there is any release agent on the cone ,sanding before washing could work it into the plastic and causing problems later on.
Personally I wash the cone first and rinse well ,fill and sand then wash again with alcohol and wipe clean.
Adhesion seems to be less a factor on cones made of styrene ,fiberglass or urathane.

Paul
 
Guys, Rustoleum Gray primer seems to be the winner here. I notice that Rustoleum also makes a variety of other color primers.......does it matter? I've read that certain topcoats look better on top of certain primers.........any truth to that? Also, how does Rustoleum primer do in the compatibility test with other brands ( Testors, Krylon) that would form the top coat?
 
primer color doesn't matter , if you spray a white "base coat" before you start painting.Almost all colors work best over white unless your doing the metallic colors that work good over a black base coat.

also a base coat provides a natural surface for wet sanding if you want a really slick paintjob
 
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