Pirouette 2

[BABAR]

Making 2 ply balsa fins.

Big ones

 

[BABAR]

Nose cone.

The internal slide pod I have learned generates a heck of a wallop.

 

[Five]

Is that a bible(redbook) your building on on?

 

[BABAR]

Is that a bible(redbook) your building on on?

Only if you are an old pharmacist!

they are a couple of Physician Desk References, big thick books full of all the information on current drugs given free to anyone who can prescribe.

the pages are unglossed paper, so they absorb the moisture.

one of the pics above actually shows the wood beginning to curl after I coated one side with wood glue.

 

[BABAR]

Nose dremeled

Then sanded

Trick I picked up from the HPR guys.

 

[Funkworks]

What do you use for each "ply"?
Why are there two dowels in the nose cone instead of just one?

 

[BABAR]

What do you use for each "ply"?
What are there two dowels in the nose cone instead of just one?

1/16” balsa. By going ply, it handles stress in different directions.

i am gluing it in with gorilla glue, I figure two pieces gunked together with poly glue will be stronger than one, but maybe not.

 

[BABAR]

Ply fins trimmed and sanded.

@neil_w recommended blue taping before papering. Not sure if that is for adhesive paper only or for glue as well.

I am going to put hinges on BEFORE I paper.

I DID notice it took off quite a bit, which I didn't expect after I had already wiped it down, so I see how it would definitely make a difference with adhesive paper.

 

[neil_w]

@neil_w recommended blue taping before papering. Not sure if that is for adhesive paper only or for glue as well.

I am going to put hinges on BEFORE I paper.

I DID notice it took off quite a bit, which I didn't expect after I had already wiped it down, so I see how it would definitely make a difference with adhesive paper.

My thinking was for adhesive label paper only, where dust could definitely hinder adhesion. With glue, I would think the glue would fuse everything together, and the dust wouldn't make much difference. But, as is so often the case, just guessing.

 

[BABAR]

5 degree up angle at hinge.

 

[BABAR]

Rotor stops
Will be 6
Paired opposite grains

Papered

Slots cut for rotors stops

 

[BABAR]

Ye old double tape hinge

 

[BABAR]

Cheaters
Alignment for fins, which also will supply very strong attachment ( big fins, small attachment points)

 

[BABAR]

Papering big fins over hinges

Cut to shape, one piece, both sides, wraps around the NONATTACHED root segment

Glue

Squeegee with card. I use a throw away mail order catalog or magazine in back, carefully lift it off and place on a clean page before sticking on fin

Apply fin and wrap segments, then fold over to hide most of the seams.

Stick in waxed paper and in a book overnight.

I will cut the paper on the "open" side of the hinge when dry

 

[BABAR]

Dried papered fins.

Should have known, red ink on balsa bleeds through

 

[BABAR]

Highlighter pink works on white body tubes

Tape at front allows nose cone to be removable, as a base for other tape.

Port holes

 

[BABAR]

Tape to protect surfaces
Vent holes
Taped on.

 

[BABAR]

Launch lug attachment. Given the large fin area of this rocket I suspect that for a low-power rocket it will get significant stress from Crosswinds while it is sitting on the pad so I want a really strong launch lug attachment.

The use of a cheater not only helps me make sure the alignment is straight but also provides more surface area for attachment, hence more strength.

Drawing the line and putting on a base of glue.

Cheater applied.

Launch lug attached.

 

[BABAR]

Drilling holes for the rubber band pegs. I drilled smaller holes first then enlarge them. The cheaters provide a little more space to work with.

Well, pics didn't post.

Final trimmed pegs

 

[BABAR]

Papered over hinge

Score with back side of blade

Hinge

 

[BABAR]

You can see the cutouts for the rotor stops through the two layers of paper

Dots at corners for cut side

Drew rectangle

Cut out ONE side, left paper on the other side intact