Perfectflite Schurter switch notice

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PokerJones

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We were talking about different switches on the NAR facebook page and someone brought this to my attention. Apparently Perfectflite is including this notice with all of their Strattologger shipments. I have used a lot of Schurter switches with no issues and I'm using two of them in my L3 cert rocket that will fly at Airfest this weekend. They have always seemed very reliable to me.

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The one thing to keep in mind in situations like this is that the switch may provide great service as we use it. However it is not designed for that application and as such when used like that, we roll the dice. That switch is really designed for a static application and to be set once and left that way for an indefinite period of time.
 
Thanks for sharing the info. I can say that I've personally had 1 fail, they are cheap plastic and cannot take any abuse. I've changed to Aerocon switches KS2 or 3 - or twist wire
 
Don't these have 2 sets of contacts in them? Couldn't you just wire the switches parallel and get redundancy in one package? That way BOTH sets of contact would have to fail/wear out to have a failure?
 
I have recently switched to MissleWorks screw switches after I had one fail (during testing). My failure was caused by me overheating the switch when I was soldering it. Since then I would rather not take the chance of having one fail due to overheating and besides, the screw switches are so much easier to install, especially in tight situations.
 
I have recently switched to MissleWorks screw switches after I had one fail (during testing). My failure was caused by me overheating the switch when I was soldering it. Since then I would rather not take the chance of having one fail due to overheating and besides, the screw switches are so much easier to install, especially in tight situations.

Ummmmm. Problem with those PC board switches are they can be destroyed by over-tightening. That really wrecked my flying one time. I ditched the phillips head screw and use a socket head one for positive engagement.
I'm becoming more like Cris though. Remote activation is sooooo much easier. Connect the battery(ies), button up the ebay and arm on the pad with a device that has WiFi and a browser.
I've also had luck with keyswitches but some of those can get pretty big. Kurt
 
Less than you might imagine. Pain in the butt to get the switches mounted 120 degrees apart on a 3 fin rocket (I use 3 holes on a 3 fin rocket, 4 on a 4 fin) UNDER the vent hole.

lol I do the same thing, 3 holes for 3 fin and 4 for 4 fin..if I ever make a 5 or more fin I may have to rethink that one otherwise the rocket will end up looking like Swiss cheese.

I have never used mechanical switches as I bought into the featherweight magnetic switch idea and haven't looked back. Having said that as much as I am confident in them, when it comes to my L3 I may opt for a screw switch. One thing I do on all my AV bays is to key them which makes lining up the shear-pin holes a snap.

I do own a few 110/220 SCHURTER switches, as well as screw switches and even the snap action switches, but I have yet to use them. I even contacted an inside sales rep at SCHURTER, Inc. to find out if it was possible to have a custom legend (safe/armed) printed on their switches but the min quantity was 5,000 plus a set up fee, which I never asked about.
 
One thing that bothers me with description of the switches from aeroconsystems is that the key can only removed in one position. Since you cannot fly with the key in the switch, I assume that means that the key would always be in the rocket when it is on the ground, being transported, etc.
 
If I can get the parts, is anyone interest in a build thread that will show just how to make your own switch
 
Here us some screw switch I build before I changed all rocket to magnetic switches.
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One thing that bothers me with description of the switches from aeroconsystems is that the key can only removed in one position. Since you cannot fly with the key in the switch, I assume that means that the key would always be in the rocket when it is on the ground, being transported, etc.

That is true - key can only be removed in the "on" position.
 
These are screw terminal for attaching wires for example with eyelets.
But I have stopped using them since they tend to chatter when you turn them on, some altimeters do not like this.

The spacetec safeswitch uses similar screw terminal pressing on a PCB, that removes the possible over tightening of the screw switches with the nut soldered to the pcb.
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I have recently switched to MissleWorks screw switches after I had one fail (during testing). My failure was caused by me overheating the switch when I was soldering it. Since then I would rather not take the chance of having one fail due to overheating and besides, the screw switches are so much easier to install, especially in tight situations.

"Hammer hits nail on head"...

- overheating solder posts can alter the internal spring-loaded cam contact stack-up
- the switch bodies are not hermetic and can potentially be fouled by contaminants
- one can wire in DPST mode for redundant off-axis contacts
- ymmv
 
After starting this thread about the Schurter switches last week I still used them on my L3 rocket this weekend at Airfest because they were already installed and worked well after numerous test. During my pre-flight prep I tested the electronics and found one of the switches was shorting out causing my altimeter to power on and off intermittently. I had to cut the wires and use twist and tape. I'm done with these.
 
After starting this thread about the Schurter switches last week I still used them on my L3 rocket this weekend at Airfest because they were already installed and worked well after numerous test. During my pre-flight prep I tested the electronics and found one of the switches was shorting out causing my altimeter to power on and off intermittently. I had to cut the wires and use twist and tape. I'm done with these.

Do you know wher you bought yours? I bet Bill from Doghouse will buy them back from you!
 
Do you know wher you bought yours? I bet Bill from Doghouse will buy them back from you!

I did buy them from Doghouse but they are all soldered and wired up heading for the trash can. This is definitely not Bills problem, I love his stuff and the service is always incredible I just need to find a better switch.
 
I did buy them from Doghouse but they are all soldered and wired up heading for the trash can. This is definitely not Bills problem, I love his stuff and the service is always incredible I just need to find a better switch.

Not saying it is. I have had some communication with Bill in the last week regarding these switches and he has bought up quite a few of the failed switches to determine root cause failure.
 
After having one come apart on a hard landing I'm not going to use the Schurter switches anymore...I've acquired some small key switches that someone linked in a previous thread. The RobotShop mini switches also look pretty robust. Electrically they are great; somebody did a load test and they took 57A for 5 min without failing.
 
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