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Here is a neat little tech tip for composite makers that use peel plys to achieve that secondary bonding or for that smooth finish. Just like fiberglass and carbon fabrics, peel ply also frays strands (except for porous teflon peel ply). This is an annoying issue especially when making tubes. After the glue has hardened and pulling the peel ply at the end where it was cut, small strands will get embedded in the tube. These can be annoying to remove.

I read somewhere that peel ply can be hot knife slit, so after much thinking I thought, why not try a soldering iron. I bought me a 30 Watt soldring iron that heats up to 735F. I let it heat up to its max temp and it cut the peel ply really well.



The results is a hot melted cut edge that prevents the fabric from fraying. Hope this helps out for you composite makers.


Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 

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I only recently began to encounter peel-ply fraying, and accounted it to my lack of experience working with it. Tfish38 had given me a sample that was great, but when I had to locate my own, I went with West Systems 87918 Release Fabric.
It worked great most of the time, but when I started to work with Carbon fiber, it would stick more, and yup, sure enough, it would sometimes embed at the edges.
I tossed a couple of items that were either too much trouble to correct/replicate, or tune within specification by sanding the bits away.

Like I said, I simply assumed it was entirely my inexperience that caused the problem, and so I really appreciate this tip.
I love the peel-ply, but I did'nt even think it was like how you show it is.
I can make cutting knives for my soldering iron too and try this next time!!!
I love to multi-task a tool like a soldering iron!
I'm already trying to figure out a tool to use on the lathe with foam, so as not to make a mess, but it requires a mandrel spindle be made first, so it is just a sketch, but the sketch has a soldering iron and a telescope drive assembly to slowly hot melt a perfect foam thing.
Basically, a poor-mans 3d printer. Stuff like CF, FG or Kevlar fibers can be blown onto the foam as it turns and cures, and the guaranteed particle alignment can be insured with stuff like vacuum and wind or magnets.
I'm making a knife handle right now that has Kevlar and Carbon Fiber, and it is really interesting to see how each additional layer I add changes everything from the knife's CG to the aesthetics of how it rides in your hand. I'm only on layer 4, and it would make one heck of a concealment piece, but I am making a Steak Knife, even though I do not enjoy Steak.

Steak Knife 2 2016-07-28 001.jpgSteak Knife 2 2016-07-28 003.jpg
 
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mpitfield

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Here is a neat little tech tip for composite makers that use peel plys to achieve that secondary bonding or for that smooth finish. Just like fiberglass and carbon fabrics, peel ply also frays strands (except for porous teflon peel ply). This is an annoying issue especially when making tubes. After the glue has hardened and pulling the peel ply at the end where it was cut, small strands will get embedded in the tube. These can be annoying to remove.

I read somewhere that peel ply can be hot knife slit, so after much thinking I thought, why not try a soldering iron. I bought me a 30 Watt soldring iron that heats up to 735F. I let it heat up to its max temp and it cut the peel ply really well.



The results is a hot melted cut edge that prevents the fabric from fraying. Hope this helps out for you composite makers.


Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
I use the Teflon peel ply so I have not had this issue however thanks for the information as I am likely to try different peel ply along the way.
 

TopRamen

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This guy is pretty kooky, but he seems like a craftsman, so check out the hot knife.
There is also a guy that talks with a Russian Accent about making one, but it is not rocket science...
And at least this guy seems legit since he has annoying little brats like a lot of us.

I have made some attempts at modifying the soldering iron, but I failed due to not adding a copper element.
I have hot wire cutters, but tomorrow, I will have hot knife too.

[video=youtube;3mHX_R4aW-0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mHX_R4aW-0[/video]

Now, if he only had positive air and some skin and eye pro, he could live long enough to become a rocket scientist.
I watched one of the coolest friends of mine get hit in the eye with a nail from a nail gun because he was being stupid and not wearing eye pro.
He was just so cool, til he was "That One Eyed guy".
Do dangerous things, but do them safely so that they may be done with frequency.
 
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REK

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I only recently began to encounter peel-ply fraying, and accounted it to my lack of experience working with it. Tfish38 had given me a sample that was great, but when I had to locate my own, I went with West Systems 87918 Release Fabric.
It worked great most of the time, but when I started to work with Carbon fiber, it would stick more, and yup, sure enough, it would sometimes embed at the edges.
I tossed a couple of items that were either too much trouble to correct/replicate, or tune within specification by sanding the bits away.

Like I said, I simply assumed it was entirely my inexperience that caused the problem, and so I really appreciate this tip.
I love the peel-ply, but I did'nt even think it was like how you show it is.
I can make cutting knives for my soldering iron too and try this next time!!!
I love to multi-task a tool like a soldering iron!
I'm already trying to figure out a tool to use on the lathe with foam, so as not to make a mess, but it requires a mandrel spindle be made first, so it is just a sketch, but the sketch has a soldering iron and a telescope drive assembly to slowly hot melt a perfect foam thing.
Basically, a poor-mans 3d printer. Stuff like CF, FG or Kevlar fibers can be blown onto the foam as it turns and cures, and the guaranteed particle alignment can be insured with stuff like vacuum and wind or magnets.
I'm making a knife handle right now that has Kevlar and Carbon Fiber, and it is really interesting to see how each additional layer I add changes everything from the knife's CG to the aesthetics of how it rides in your hand. I'm only on layer 4, and it would make one heck of a concealment piece, but I am making a Steak Knife, even though I do not enjoy Steak.

View attachment 297958View attachment 297959
I think the carbon/kevlar knife will look more good than the steak lol.

The soldering iron with the standard tip works just as good, but yeah for more convenience it would be more better with the exacto knife blade. Im sure there is an attachment for it that I can buy later on.

Making a tool with multiple uses just saves you a lot of trouble and money. Good luck with the foam tool idea.


Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 

REK

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I use the Teflon peel ply so I have not had this issue however thanks for the information as I am likely to try different peel ply along the way.
That teflon peel ply is my favorite. It just sucks it does not do the secondary bonding. Nothing like a good sanding wont fix, but it is a real pain to sand away the texture to get a good bond.


Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 

REK

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This guy is pretty kooky, but he seems like a craftsman, so check out the hot knife.
There is also a guy that talks with a Russian Accent about making one, but it is not rocket science...
And at least this guy seems legit since he has annoying little brats like a lot of us.

I have made some attempts at modifying the soldering iron, but I failed due to not adding a copper element.
I have hot wire cutters, but tomorrow, I will have hot knife too.

[video=youtube;3mHX_R4aW-0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3mHX_R4aW-0[/video]

Now, if he only had positive air and some skin and eye pro, he could live long enough to become a rocket scientist.
I watched one of the coolest friends of mine get hit in the eye with a nail from a nail gun because he was being stupid and not wearing eye pro.
He was just so cool, til he was "That One Eyed guy".
Do dangerous things, but do them safely so that they may be done with frequency.
Damn that sucks about your friend. Yes I will encourage caution and safety always. Especially with a soldering iron.


Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 

StanO

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Perfect timing! I was going to cut my peel ply yesterday but ran out of time. Probably will start today using your tip. Thanks!

StanO
 

REK

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I wanted to share the results of trying out the tip I mentioned and I was very please to see no strands stuck. Using a nice metal ruler or you can also use an L angle bar, it gives you a nice straight cut.

After rolling a difficult to wet out fiberglass. I applyed the peel ply with the edge that I had cut using the soldering iron.

After cure I removed the peel ply and the results is a nice straight seam, with no left over strands from the peel ply.

Here is a picture showing the seam.




Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 

StanO

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That teflon peel ply is my favorite. It just sucks it does not do the secondary bonding. Nothing like a good sanding wont fix, but it is a real pain to sand away the texture to get a good bond.
Please help me with your statement. Am I to infer that when you plan to add layers and need secondary bonding you use fabric peel ply? But when you do not plan on secondary bonding you use porous Teflon peel ply? I was under the impression they were interchangeable but since I have yet to use either one I could use the benefit of your experience.

Thanks,
StanO
 

REK

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Please help me with your statement. Am I to infer that when you plan to add layers and need secondary bonding you use fabric peel ply? But when you do not plan on secondary bonding you use porous Teflon peel ply? I was under the impression they were interchangeable but since I have yet to use either one I could use the benefit of your experience.

Thanks,
StanO
Yes that is essentially true, because the teflon peel ply uses as the name implies teflon to prevent adhesion to the laminate. When the teflon peel ply is removed it can leave behind the teflon coating and this can be trouble if you bond fins to the body tube or vise versa. This of course can be avoided by roughing up the surface, however as someone not a fan of sanding, it is just easier to go with secondary bonding cable peel plys.

This is a carbon fin I made with teflon peel ply and did not rough up the surface and applied fiberglass tip to tip. Notice the white foggy area. This is an indication of delamination.






Alexander Solis - TRA Level 1 - Mariah 54 - CTI-I100 Red Lightning Longburn - 6,345 Feet
 
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