- Dec 2, 2018
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Any help would be appreciated. Above is one of my Nakka 100 cm chutes.
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Googling finds a few links, but I've never made my own parachute so I'm not sure which ones are valid.Thanks John, is there an online calculator for sizes for payloads for these shapes?
The French fell has proven to be the most efficient parachute seam for radials. Both seams can use the same amount of allowance for the seams. It is really up to you on how much allowance you put in. A true french fell uses 2 loaded stitch rows where a flat fell only uses one. There are videos on how to do a true french fell for parachutes on youtube, might take a little searching but you can find them.That was a good video, and other good videos followed. I learned that there is a French felled seam and a flat felled seam (but probably no such thing as a French Felled seam). I think the goal for parachutes is the strongest seam with the least amount of fabric or "allowance." From my extensive 10 minutes of video training, I am guessing the flat felled seam would be the winner for both the least fabric and most strength.
If you need a spreadsheet for the Viking DGB ratios, let me know. Very simple to make.As far as patterns go, the X-form is about the easiest, as you have discovered. It is also very strong and very stable. It can in theory tangle and/or spin, but I have had excellent luck with them, especially for drogues. I haven't had the need to make my own main chute in quite a while, but if I did, I would try a disc-gap-band chute like they used on some Mars missions. It looks like a very simple but good design.
Which are you referring to?If any you decide to make flat hex shaped parachutes, take the time and sew the shroud lines across from each other. Doing so will keep the lines from tangling. Every flat hex chute I've seen always has their lines crossed.