ArthurAstroCam
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Are there any helpful tutorials available for the average builder starting out, as far as types, brands, and best practices for painting their rockets?
Thank you. Exactly what I have been looking for, and a great start.There really should be, but I'm not aware of one. There are loads of tips (and opinions) scattered everywhere, but I'm not aware of seeing it all in one place.
For LPR, I would say rattle cans are most common. Everyone has their brand preferences. In general, there are really four separate categories of paint products to deal with: primers, regular top coats, metallics, and clear coats. Sticking with the same brand for all is often safest but there are loads of exceptions.
I usually use: Rustoleum Filler/Primer, followed by sanding. Then (sometimes) Rustoleum 2x Primer, followed by Rustoleum 2x top coats. Finish with Future clearcoat. When I need metallics I use Rustoleum Stops Rust metallics which are consistently great.
#1 rule: Follow instructions regarding environmental conditions and dry/recoat times.
If you read @hcmbanjo 's blog, he has lots of paint explanations in pretty much every build. http://modelrocketbuilding.blogspot.com/
Thank you- this looks like fantastic stuff!I have had amazing results with the following: https://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-DE1653-Ceramic-Engine-Paint/dp/B002988HSI/ref=sr_1_8?crid=DGDJ7MEHFCZF&keywords=duplicolor+high+temp+with+ceramic&qid=1641920293&sprefix=duplicolor+high+temp+with+ceramic,aps,116&sr=8-8.
Comes in a variety of colors and is the next best thing to Emron for durability.
I highly suggest using https://www.amazon.com/Respirаtor-Protective-Equipment-Decorating-Carpentry/dp/B08GYKQLD4/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=ZUS4SXUP07AG&keywords=paint+filter+mask&qid=1641920498&sprefix=paint+filter+mask,aps,98&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyWUNPNkowUVhGUVE1JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI0Nzg2MkYxVkc2TkhTUTE5RyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzU4NTI0RThKN1ZCQ1AzM1dNJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== when spray painting, even when outdoors.
The only more…interesting…thread than a glue thread is a paint thread
You’ve cracked open a can o’ worms!
Here’s my opinions, and even though they are informed opinions it’s what’s worked for me! not an absolute of any kind.
First, every brand of consumer grade spray paint has upsides and downsides - most problems with those rattle cans are caused by two factors: aggressive carrier solvents (they evaporate faster, minimizing VOC pollution, in order to comply with environmental regulations) and pigment quantities, the more transparent the paint, the heavier folks paint, the more those aggressive solvents cone into play. So regardless of what brand or type there are basic things that need attention - surface preparation, dry/cure times, paint compatibility. Here’s what I do (and I use multiple brands - Rustoleum, Krylon, various store brands - mostly Ace Hardware, weird proprietary stuff I bought at a surplus store…) for typical wood and paper rockets after filling any seams or papering my fins:
1. Light sanding, 400-600 grit
2. Wipe down with a non-residue cleaner - I like eyeglass cleaner or cheapo window cleaner
3. Coat of sandable filler/primer - I use Rusto high build that is usually in the automotive section or parts store
4. Sand smooth - 200 then 400 then 600
5. Another coat of primer and repeat sanding if needed
6. Gloss white base coat
7. Here’s the most critical step - let the white base coat dry and cure completely! That can take over a week depending on humidity, temperature, paint brand. The sniff test is your friend - if it smells like paint it isn’t cured.
8. Light layers of final color coat applied per the instructions on the can - follow the recoat times and temperature suggestions as closely as possible.
9. When it doesn’t work - and sometimes no matter ho careful you are it simply doesn’t work and the paint wrinkles - be ok with sanding it all down and starting over
My paint jobs aren’t award winners or worthy of some kind of “show rockets” but I get consistent results that please me. The best advice I can give is to experiment until you find what works best for you.
Oh, only other tip is do test sprays on old body tubes, kitchen wrap and wrapping paper rolls etc to make sure of coverage, compatibility etc.
Good luck and happy painting!
Here’s some good resources on rocket painting:
http://rocketn00b.blogspot.com/search/label/painting
https://www.nar.org/educational-resources/model-rocket-building-techniques/
http://www.jcrocket.com/kitbuilding.shtml
Thank you! ArthurThe only more…interesting…thread than a glue thread is a paint thread
You’ve cracked open a can o’ worms!
Here’s my opinions, and even though they are informed opinions it’s what’s worked for me! not an absolute of any kind.
First, every brand of consumer grade spray paint has upsides and downsides - most problems with those rattle cans are caused by two factors: aggressive carrier solvents (they evaporate faster, minimizing VOC pollution, in order to comply with environmental regulations) and pigment quantities, the more transparent the paint, the heavier folks paint, the more those aggressive solvents cone into play. So regardless of what brand or type there are basic things that need attention - surface preparation, dry/cure times, paint compatibility. Here’s what I do (and I use multiple brands - Rustoleum, Krylon, various store brands - mostly Ace Hardware, weird proprietary stuff I bought at a surplus store…) for typical wood and paper rockets after filling any seams or papering my fins:
1. Light sanding, 400-600 grit
2. Wipe down with a non-residue cleaner - I like eyeglass cleaner or cheapo window cleaner
3. Coat of sandable filler/primer - I use Rusto high build that is usually in the automotive section or parts store
4. Sand smooth - 200 then 400 then 600
5. Another coat of primer and repeat sanding if needed
6. Gloss white base coat
7. Here’s the most critical step - let the white base coat dry and cure completely! That can take over a week depending on humidity, temperature, paint brand. The sniff test is your friend - if it smells like paint it isn’t cured.
8. Light layers of final color coat applied per the instructions on the can - follow the recoat times and temperature suggestions as closely as possible.
9. When it doesn’t work - and sometimes no matter ho careful you are it simply doesn’t work and the paint wrinkles - be ok with sanding it all down and starting over
My paint jobs aren’t award winners or worthy of some kind of “show rockets” but I get consistent results that please me. The best advice I can give is to experiment until you find what works best for you.
Oh, only other tip is do test sprays on old body tubes, kitchen wrap and wrapping paper rolls etc to make sure of coverage, compatibility etc.
Good luck and happy painting!
Here’s some good resources on rocket painting:
http://rocketn00b.blogspot.com/search/label/painting
https://www.nar.org/educational-resources/model-rocket-building-techniques/
http://www.jcrocket.com/kitbuilding.shtml
No worries - though be ready for another armchair expert (though, technically I’m a couch sitting expert right now!) to come along and tell you I’m completely wrongThank you! Arthur
No worries - though be ready for another armchair expert (though, technically I’m a couch sitting expert right now!) to come along and tell you I’m completely wrong
But are you in a comfy (arm)chair!You are completely wrong!!
Just thought I'd get that out of the way.
Ah, the good Doctor reminded me of the one important thing I forgot to mention - shaking the danged cans! I try to do at least 4-6 minutes (2-3 per hand, you know, so it counts as an “arm day”) per can and then keep shaking while using between coats. I really do need to rig a paint shaker attachment for my oscillating multi-tool (THE best improviser’s power tool ever! Electric equivalent of vice grip pliers).the short answer: practice!!
We each have our own personal practices and we've all learned with the various brands & such. Some love brand A, while some love brand B and hate Brand A, etc.. Some get crap results by following the can instruction to the letter (but forget a few things: relative humidity, not shaking the can long enough.. etc..)
Not all brands are the same and should not / cannot be interchanged
Its not a race.. don't try to paint a 3-tone rocket with clear coat in a week-end. a week or two between coats isn't uncommon..
Prep is likely the most important step. Any flaws prior to painting will be magnified! some will say 200 grit is enough, some say 1200 is the minimum..
Decals are another source or pride / frustration: water slide vs. cut vinyl..
Beautiful- how many coats of each do you use?I use Rusto 2x primer, base and clear. Works perfectly for meView attachment 499524View attachment 499525View attachment 499526View attachment 499527
Just enough to cover. Typically about 2 coats of each.Beautiful- how many coats of each do you use?
I ask because that is the kind of look I would love to achieve. Not that I can come close to your skill. Really nice.Just enough to cover. Typically about 2 coats of each.
Getting good painting results is all about three things:I ask because that is the kind of look I would love to achieve. Not that I can come close to your skill. Really nice.
Getting good painting results is all about three things:
1) Good prep
2) Understanding the basics of the required techniques (this may include a heavy dose of patience)
3) Practice
With the Rusto 2x paints, I normally do two light coats followed by one heavy. That is a fairly standard approach. With metallics all coats are light; it's thin and will run if you do a heavy coat. Fantastic results are possible, heavily dependent on the quality of the base coat underneath.
View attachment 499552
That's Rustoleum Stops Rust blue metallic.
You live in an alternate reality with regard to painting.number 2 does not apply to my world. I go fast!
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