Painting the Mad Cow Little John with Createx Colors

[Rocketcas]

The Grabber Orange (4654) panels are next. I missed the opportunity to take pictures of the process, but here it is ready for artwork (ghosted rockets).



Ghosted rockets are applied as the artwork using red. See the templates below. Orange is then sprayed over the artwork.

(The ghosted rockets do not show as well on the finished product as hoped. They need to be darker. Lesson Learned.)

 

[Rocketcas]

Marine Blue is applied to the fin can. Sorry, again. no process pictures.



Finally, Lemon Yellow (4653) mixed with 25% Tequila Yellow (4652), was applied to the tip.



Unmasking and removing the tape is always exciting! Remove both gently. Pulling tape back on itself is the best way to remove it. NEVER pull out on tape. Pulling out encourages adhesion problems.

There will be some build up around the tape edges. Gently "wipe" them down with 1000 grit sandpaper. Focus only on the edges. There is no need to sand the entire rocket. Be careful around high spots. Dry sanding is best for this step.

 

[Rocketcas]

STEP 5 Clearcoat

Now, for the best part. It is impressive how the clear coat brings it all together!

• Clear can be tricky because the complex surfaces allow the material to build at different rates, which can lead to runs. (Runs are not the end of the world - let it dry, sand gently and clear again.)
• I think a medium hardener is best - fast hardener drys too fast, and slow hardener allows for runs.
• The PPG Shop Line (or any economy line) is acceptable for clearing a rocket. The shop line clear coat can still be cut and polished if desired. But they are less expensive.

Clearing Application

1. Apply a very light coat first. (I call this "introducing" the clear coat.) Wait 10 minutes or until it is tacky.
2. Next is a medium coat. This coat is heaver but not yet the money coat. The finish may a bit rough yet. Wait 10 minutes or until it is tacky.
3. The 3rd coat is the money coat! This coat is the final finish coat and needs to be smooth and glossy. I found watching the paint hit the surface from the side is the best way to monitor the amount of material applied.
4. If you are not getting the coverage needed, SLOW DOWN your pass. (Makes you nervous!)
5. Start at the fin can and apply it like you would a tip to tip glassing.
6. Move to the body with some overlap on the fin can. If possible, spray the complete length of the body.
7. When getting close to the nose cone, swing the gun away from the cone. (Sounds crazy, but the material builds faster as you get to the tip.)
8. Start at the tip and paint just the nose cone.

Clearing Application

1. Apply a very light coat first. (I call this "introducing" the clear coat.) Wait 10 minutes or until it is tacky.
2. Next is a medium coat. This coat is heavier but not yet the money coat. The finish may a bit rough yet. Wait 10 minutes or until it is tacky.
3. The 3rd coat is the money coat! This coat is the final finish coat and needs to be smooth and glossy. I found watching the paint hit the surface from the side is the best way to monitor the amount of material applied.
4. If you are not getting the coverage needed, SLOW DOWN your pass. (Makes you nervous!)
5. Start at the fin can and apply it like you would a tip to tip glassing.
6. Move to the body with some overlap on the fin can. If possible, spray the complete length of the body.
7. When getting close to the nose cone, swing the gun away from the cone. (Sounds crazy, but the material builds faster as you get to the tip.)
8. Start at the tip and paint just the nose cone.

STEP 6 Stand back and admire!

 

[Rocketcas]

Here are some endnotes on some of the processes.

NOTES - Laying out the design

1. Tape lines are laid out in layers with the top layer going first. In this case, the purple layer is on top and taped first. The red and orange layers follow, respectively.
2. Templates, while note required, make it easy to be consistent with the design. For Little John, templates were created using brown paper.
3. Before taping, clean the surface with a damp rag, degreaser/wax remover, and alcohol.
4. The 1/16 inch tape line is for reference only. Three reference lines are used since the graphic is based on 3's layers.
5. 3/16 inch tape is used for all design elements.

NOTES - Painting Candies

1. Candy 20 colors are dyes. And as such, they are thin. Never spray them directly without a "carrier".
2. In the past, Createx has recommended Balancing Clear (4030). Recently Createx has recommended their 4050 gloss clear coat as a candy "carrier". Both products increase durability and flow characteristics to the candies. The 4050 carrier goes on heavier and builds color faster.
3. Createx candies are applied almost dry in a very light, even coats. (THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT - Clear lite coats build bold, vivid colors.
4. Each candy coat builds the color but remains transparent. If you want a more vibrant color, add more coats. The color is deep, but still lets the flake shine thru!
5. Wait about 5-10 minutes between coats or until the paint is dried to a matte finish.
6. Wait about 30 minutes before masking. Be careful masking around the new paint. I find it quite durable, but be gentle.

A couple of parting thoughts:

1. Rockets can be simple or complex. Paint is the same way. Create a simple design, use one color. The joy is in the process! It will look good on the pad.
2. I have read several comments about how rattle cans are a hassle, have long drying times, and how sometimes colors "fight" one another leaving a mess. Createx has low fumes, drying times measured in minutes, not days. Stay within the Createx family and there should be no compatibility issues.

 

[neil_w]

Pretty amazing.

 

[manixFan]

Fantastic thread. Really has me thinking I need to up my game on painting. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this thread.


Tony

 

[Greg Furtman]

Great thread! Makes me want to , pardon the pun, brush up on my airbrushing. It would be great if you could shoot some video of the process & put it up on YouTube. Lots of airbrushing videos there but I have found none that are rocket related.

 

[Nytrunner]

The ghosted rockets do not show as well on the finished product as hoped. They need to be darker. Lesson Learned.)

Think it has to do with Red/Orange being so close on the Hue spectrum? Requiring much greater shading to distinguish?

 

[Rocketcas]

Think it has to do with Red/Orange being so close on the Hue spectrum? Requiring much greater shading to distinguish?

Very much so. Darker color certainly - maybe a purple.

 

[Rocketcas]

Great thread! Makes me want to , pardon the pun, brush up on my airbrushing. It would be great if you could shoot some video of the process & put it up on YouTube. Lots of airbrushing videos there but I have found none that are rocket related.

Thanks for the idea - videos make sense - I'll check it out. Have fun brushing up your airbrush!

 

[Rocketcas]

Fantastic thread. Really has me thinking I need to up my game on painting. Thanks for all the time and effort you put into this thread.


Tony

Thanks for the kind words - get some Createx and have at it - Let me know if I can help.

 

[Rocketcas]

Pretty amazing.

Thanks for the help!