Painting nightmare - LOC V2

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RJT

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Just can't get the yellow and black finish done right on my Loc V2 4".....ughhhh. Have sanded down the enamel twice now. Clearly the result of impatience intersecting with perfectionism- not a good combo.
 

Dr. Robotnik

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I struggled with a black/white finish on my old LOC V-2. Ended up accepting some flaws after closely examining photos from WW2; the prototypes were pretty rough looking right out of the factory. Of course, flights back then were hard on the rockets whether or not they were successful!
 
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JohnCoker

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What problem are you having? Maybe we can make some suggestions.
 

RJT

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Yes Dr, the paint jobs were a bit rough so I shouldn't be so particular. That said, always trying to improve.

-John, re your question. I'm using Rustoleum spray enamel. The yellow coat went on well, but the black is cracking and peeling. I did have a few runs too. I'm in Wisconsin so made a couple attempts when it was in the 30s temp wise. This may account for the cracking. The peeling seems like an adhesion issue???

Suggestions are certainly welcome. I am however, close to just going OD green and calling it a day!
 

JohnCoker

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Not sure about the cracking and peeling in general. Is this on a body tube or a plastic nose cone? (Plastic nose cones need special prep.)
 
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Zeus-cat

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LOC nose cones are made from that nearly unpaintable plastic. I used a universal primer on my LOC V2 and that helped. I am doing a three tone camo. Far more forgiving than a geometrical pattern.
 
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teepot

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I did a scratch V-2 and used the Apogee black 4" nose cone for the rear of the rocket and had trouble with paint adhesion. The blue painters tape I used lifted the paint in a couple of places. I did mine in black and white.
 

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RJT

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Not sure about the cracking and peeling in general. Is this on a body tube or a plastic nose cone? (Plastic nose cones need special prep.)
Well the nose cone gave me problems, even after using adhesion promoter, but after a redo, looks ok. The biggest problem is the paint lift/peeling on the body tube. i.e. black peeling away from the yellow undercoat.
 

3stoogesrocketry

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Well the nose cone gave me problems, even after using adhesion promoter, but after a redo, looks ok. The biggest problem is the paint lift/peeling on the body tube. i.e. black peeling away from the yellow undercoat.
It sounds like you did not wait long enough between coats of paint. The Yellow will outgas for several days. I've had the same issues with the same paint.
 

SDramstad

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I use duplicolor lacquers. They don’t need a minimum time between coats.
 

neil_w

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Well the nose cone gave me problems, even after using adhesion promoter, but after a redo, looks ok. The biggest problem is the paint lift/peeling on the body tube. i.e. black peeling away from the yellow undercoat.
How much time did you leave between the black and yellow coats? Rusto specifies recoating either within 1 hour or after 48 hours, and they mean it. If the paint was left to cure in the 30's (too cold for painting, generally), then it could take much longer to cure. I normally leave 3-7 days between colors; if it was pretty cold out I'd definitely push towards the 7 days.
 

RocketTree

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Well the nose cone gave me problems, even after using adhesion promoter, but after a redo, looks ok. The biggest problem is the paint lift/peeling on the body tube. i.e. black peeling away from the yellow undercoat.
Make sure to wash the nose cone with soap and water before starting. If you sand through the primer, I would suggest reapplying another coat. Best to use one made for plastics (Rustoleum 2x works fine).

For the body, I would assume the base coat has cured before you applied masking for the second color. At this point, the window for paint re-application has closed. You *should* re-sand the unmasked area before second color is applied. Spray 6-8 light coats.

Also, the 2x should be applied above 10 C (50 F) if I remember correctly.

Paint too thick/wet:
Surface has skinned-over trapping the solvent underneath.
wrinkles in paint.jpg
 

RJT

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I appreciate everyone's input. Clearly I made some mistakes, namely rushing to get the second color painted on the body. I thought a day would be sufficient. Live and learn! Thanks again, I will now think of you all as my Painting Yodas!
 

icyclops

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The undercoat i always let dry (above 70) for 3-4 days before adding another color....
 
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SkyFire

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A couple other tips......
- Don't use tack cloths; the wax can cause problems. Use a damp microfiber cloth instead.
- Don't touch surfaces that will be painted with your hands. Oil from your hands can cause problems.
- Warm up rattle cans in warm water before using.
- Clear coats tend to run easier than base coats; apply lighter coats.
- If painting outside when it's below 70 degrees you could use a paint booth like mine, warming things up with a space heater. (Turn off space heater when painting; don't need any explosions!)
Paint booth.jpg
 

DES

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Yes Dr, the paint jobs were a bit rough so I shouldn't be so particular. That said, always trying to improve.

-John, re your question. I'm using Rustoleum spray enamel. The yellow coat went on well, but the black is cracking and peeling. I did have a few runs too. I'm in Wisconsin so made a couple attempts when it was in the 30s temp wise. This may account for the cracking. The peeling seems like an adhesion issue???

Suggestions are certainly welcome. I am however, close to just going OD green and calling it a day!
Specifically, which version of the Rustoelum enamel? The older "stops rust" and the "industrial" formulations are oil based alkyd enamels, while the "2X" is an acrylic enamel. They each have different problems.

I have definitely seen adhesion issues when top coating oil based enamels. The top coat can just peel off. Topcoating an oil enamel requires scuffing of the cured base coat, and cleaning with a solvent first.

Adhesion and peeling between coats is generally not an issue with acrylic enamel like the "2X", they adhere well to themselves (but NOT to an oil enamel), but you do have to pay attention to the recoat window and let the base cure completely, or the solvents will blister and craze the top coat.
 

RJT

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Nightmare ended! It only took me twice to sand down and repaint but it turned out pretty well. Also thanks to Mark H at Stickershock for the decals. Really appreciate all the tips, tricks and guidance on the TRF, it helped immensely and inspired me not to give up on it.
 

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DES

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Another painting 'how to'........
View attachment 459562
Pretty sure I know these guys. I worked as a commercial painter for about six months doing apartment buildings. These guys were on the crew. Not only did we paint buildings, we painted windows, patio furniture, sidewalks, bikes, toys, barbeque grills, and at least two cars. Probably a small child or two. If it didn't move, it got a coat of brown oil based enamel, same as the walls. Free paint job for anything in the way. The only job I have every actually quit.
 

SkyFire

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Nightmare ended! It only took me twice to sand down and repaint but it turned out pretty well. Also thanks to Mark H at Stickershock for the decals. Really appreciate all the tips, tricks and guidance on the TRF, it helped immensely and inspired me not to give up on it.
Looks great!!!!!
 
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