Paint Masking

[Randy K]

Has anyone used anything like the following to mask off areas for painting?

https://www.micromark.com/parafilm-...keting&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=13WS015B

In the past I have just used painter’s or masking tape, but occasionally I get some bleed through.
Also using painters or masking tape can be a challenge to lay on flat around fins and stuff.

Just wondering what others use / do for masking off different areas for painting.

 

[mikemech]

I get a much cleaner line with standard Scotch tape.

Mike

 

[ckreef]

I have found that bleed through occurs when you put down too heavy of a coat (and it "runs" under the tape). Multiple lighter coats and you shouldn't have an issue of bleed through using good painters masking tape.

 

[Micromeister]

Has anyone used anything like the following to mask off areas for painting?

https://www.micromark.com/parafilm-...keting&utm_medium=Email&utm_campaign=13WS015B

In the past I have just used painter’s or masking tape, but occasionally I get some bleed through.
Also using painters or masking tape can be a challenge to lay on flat around fins and stuff.

Just wondering what others use / do for masking off different areas for painting.

Yes Have been using Parafilm-m for about 10 years. like many products it has a bit of a learning curve as it must be stretched, the allowed to relax for a minute before application to the model. Has by far the smallest paint dam remnant of any method i've tried including scotch magic tape. Makes intricate detailing on round or compound curved surfaces a snap, even on small micro parts and models a breeze even with rattle can paints or airbursh.
Simply does not lift until it is rolled off after complete drying.

 

[ncgardenfreaks]

I have used a similar product and it is decent if the surface was flat, but on radius areas it wanted to lift even at low psi with an airbrush. I use a film called flisk and it sticks good and doesent peel fresh paint. Its semi transparent and you can draw designs on with a pencil and cut it out with a new razor blade. I have used alot of different products when I custom painted and 3m blue and green plastic fine line and 233+ green masking tape and flisk is all I use now. Take a pencil eraser or a smooth ink pen like a bic stick and burnish the edges and you can run the paint all day long and will not get a drop under a tape edge. Thats just my two pennys and what works for me though.

 

[luke strawwalker]

When masking over curved surfaces or curved lines, the best stuff you can get is Tamiya masking tape... it's narrow in width so it will make a curve or conform to a curved surface and I haven't had ANY bleed-throughs using it...

Outline your actual paint edge with the Tamiya tape, then go over it with the blue painters tape to cover a wider area and tape down any masking paper or whatever to cover large areas... any bleed throughs under the blue tape should be on top of the Tamiya tape, and the Tamiya tape will give you a clean, sharp line with no bleed throughs...

Later! OL JR

 

[Micromeister]

Not sure if you were asking about masking with standard types of masking material but if your looking for a masking materal that will work well on Curved and compound curved surfaces without the use of Liquid masks or Parafilm-M at will not set you back a fortune as the Tamiya tapes do. You might want to pick up a roll or two of Yellow "delicate surface" frog tape. Identical in thickness with tamiya tape and semi-transparent so your pattern underneath can still be seen but on a standard 36yd roll rather then a few feet. both sizes work wonderfully on all "primed or painted surfaces". Hard to find locally but easily available from amazon.com. While I've used them all I have to say Tamiya tape has NEVER impressed me as much as many on this board. Perhaps it's because I do so much painting that cost becomes a factor. But there are a number of other types that meet all the same criteria with far less the cost.

 

[aditat2]

+1 on the 3-M plastic masking tape. It comes in several sizes from 1/8" up to - i think - 1/4" if I'm not mistaken. Have used the thinner stuff for years - both in modeling and custom painting. It's very flexible and adheres well. No bleed under as long as you burnish the edges. Plus, availability is as close as your nearest automotive paint/parts supply house.

 

[kenstarr]

+1 on the 3-M plastic masking tape. It comes in several sizes from 1/8" up to - i think - 1/4" if I'm not mistaken. Have used the thinner stuff for years - both in modeling and custom painting. It's very flexible and adheres well. No bleed under as long as you burnish the edges. Plus, availability is as close as your nearest automotive paint/parts supply house.

I've got the 1/8" and 1/4" 3M tape. It's expensive for a roll but WOW, does it work well! I just used some the other day on my newest build. I did compound curves and it works no sweat.
-Ken

 

[ckreef]

+1 on the 3-M plastic masking tape. It comes in several sizes from 1/8" up to - i think - 1/4" if I'm not mistaken. Have used the thinner stuff for years - both in modeling and custom painting. It's very flexible and adheres well. No bleed under as long as you burnish the edges. Plus, availability is as close as your nearest automotive paint/parts supply house.

Will have to try this in the future.

 

[Randy K]

Thanks for all the tips.
I stopped by Lobby Lobby on my way home from work today and picked up a roll of Tamiya masking tape to try out. Had a 40% off coupon, so the price was not too bad.
Hopefully in a week or two I will have a couple kits ready to give it a try.