# Paint booth idea

### Help Support The Rocketry Forum:

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Winter is approaching, and I anticipate having a lot of time to build rockets; which means having to paint them. I'm lucky enough to have a basement with a workshop, and I like the idea of being able to paint there as well.

After making the stupid mistake of trying to do some spray touch up of a rocket on the floor with newspapers laid out, I'm now the proud owner of a red outline on my concrete floor. Good excuse to just paint the whole darn thing now. Anyway, after searching the forums and coming across a pic of Micromeisters large vinyl paintbooth, I had a Eureka moment (for me anyway).

My wife has a relatively unused aluminum framed, vinyl clad wardrobe in our basement that I think would make a potentially great start for a basement paintbooth. The idea is to use it like a portable sandblasting booth, where you stand in front of it and put your hands inside through openings in the front, and look through the window while you work.

The one we have is zippered, totally enclosed top to bottom, has a vinvyl window, and has enough size inside for most anything I would ever build. All's it really needs is a ventilation system (maybe dryer ducting, and a blower motor going though a filter), and a flap cut in the front to put your arms through, and a shelf with rotissiere stand (e.g. lazy Susan on a shelf).

The other thought would be to tape plastic wrap over the inside of the window section before each paint session so you don't permanently cloud the window with paint. What else am I forgetting?

I know no good idea is ever original, so I'll ask now, anyone here ever done this? How has it worked?

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
Lugnut:
Top lighting is best, as well as above front. venting is best at or as close to the lever you'll be spraying with a squirel cage type blower. 4" metal foil covered dryer duct works wonderfully for exhausting fumes and overspray to the outside. Heres a few looks at my 3' x 3' x 7' booth i've been using in my basement for over 25years. I've only had to change the Heavy Weight visqueen plastic cover once in all that time.
Incidentally, the blower I use is a standard heavy duty type blower where the motor is housed outside the squurel cage makes for a nice safe exhaust "fan"

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
Heres a look at the duting and a gate I use with my smaller booth as well, either or both booths can be in use at the same time without blowback or blow through on either station.

Edit!!! sorry wrong pic... however in this pic you may be able to see one of the blowers I mentioned about mid frame on the left

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
Heres the Exhaust duct, T and gate pic.

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting those MM. I had seen the Visqueen one in a prior thread in my search. Thats the one that was the genesis for the idea of using the wardrobe closet.

Can't wait to try this thing

#### rbeckey

##### Well-Known Member
Just a thought, not sure of practicality:
What if the fan were set up to push air into the cabinet through a dust filter? It could be ducted out at the bottom. No worries about sparks.

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
It would have to be a totally sealed unit (which it isn't), othewise your pushing fumes into the room. Not a bad thought though, it does minimize the fire hazard.

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
rbeckey:
Back in the 70's stone ages, I did just about what you are discribing I places my 18" x 18" x 48" foamcore "booth" with 2 300watt bulbs heating the booth through the plywood top, jambed in the sliding glass door frame of my apartment, placed Plastic sheeting on the floor out the door and above to close the opening. Behind me I set a 30" box fan, the air flow blowing between my legs under the kitchen type chair I was sitting on.

I actually tried this outside with the fan in an enclosed "tent" filled with spray can paint vapors to Try to get them to ignite.. I could Not! Lugnut your concern is WAY overblown. I've tried everything you can imagine to get aerosol can spary paint to ignite, It is very very difficult! Resonable care is all that is needed to prevent a flash fire.
I've sprayed Cold Paint on a Hot 300 watt blub in a full can concentration of Paint fumes in a 12" x 12" x 36" enclosed platic tent, bursting the bulb. 6 bulbs...6 attempts...0 flashes. It really takes an OPEN FLAME to get the reaction started or a much hight concentration than can be achived with a can of paint. I DO recommend a squirel Cage blower just to be extra safe... but the larger the booth the less likely you'll be to have any kind of problem at all. You'll be OK short term with a fan blowing behind you blowin into the wardrobe.
P.S. Great idea the temporary wardrobe...I had no idea they existed

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Thanks for the heads up on your testing. Having not done the testing yet myself, and having no idea just how volatile lacquer aerosol vapors really are, I was just erring on the side of caution and parroting what I had read on the Net. Would hate to have someone read this try it w/o testing and start a fire.

I might try the cheap Ebay oven range route first (if I can pick one up for under $10) just so I can test the blower motor. Low dollar projects rule. Last night I banged together a battery powered rotissiere stand out of an ancient R/C servo, a gutted old R/C fuel pump (for its reversing power switch and to hold a C cell), and a small metal box that used to house an attic thermostat switch. Cut out a square of thin plywood to attach to the top, hold it all together with rubber bands and I have a working 60 rpm paint platform. Ugly as hell, but it works Cost so far, still$0.00

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
What Lacquers are you using? With the exception of clear coats most all the spray can paints you'll be using are enamels, or possibly polyurethans. Emanels contain very different thinners, vehicles and pigments than lacquers. Seriouly; you don't want to be spraying lacquers without proper breathing protection, I mean a filtered mask, not a particle mask, supplied air would be better but that's a whole other system. Lacqures and lacquer thinners will tear up your lungs..Use extra Care with all Lacquer based materials and Polyurethans

Ah Ha Lugnut: LOL that is turely funny!
I use about 4 different types of turntables. this one i Like the best is a 10" microwave spring action table, Rated for 10lbs it will turn any model I'll ever be painting gives a good solid bae footprint and revolves at just a little under 3 revs/minute.
hope this helps.

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Just using lacquers as a worse case example of what I *might* conceivably use in this thing. 99% of the time, it'll just be Krylon sprays.

I have to post a picture of that "model rotissiere", (cough), you guys will laugh. Its ghetto as all he11. =)

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Basement engineering scores again!

#### Micromeister

##### Micro Craftman/ClusterNut
TRF Lifetime Supporter
TRF Supporter
LOL! Oh Lugnut you were right. Ah HA.. Sometimes necessity is just a Mother
As long as it works who cares what it looks like? After a couple or three uses it'll all be the same funky grey yuck color anyway

Great use of what's on hand! good job!

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Originally posted by Micromeister
LOL! Oh Lugnut you were right. Ah HA.. Sometimes necessity is just a Mother
As long as it works who cares what it looks like? After a couple or three uses it'll all be the same funky grey yuck color anyway

Nah, I cut up a ziplock bag to wrap around it before using it. I want to keep paint out of the gear mechanism.

#### Lugnut

Minor Update:

Bought an old 36" hood stove off Ebay with a built in light and two speed squirrel cage blower and filter ($30 including freight). Cut a square in the top for the light and filter. Whole thing fits on top like it was made to order. In stock form it exits out the front (less than optimal), but it does have the cut provisions for top and rear exhuast. Just need to make a trip to Home Repo to buy the appropriate ducting bracket, hose, and a flourescent light assembly for the light socket. Pics to follow. #### Lugnut ##### Well-Known Member Went to Home Depot and got the duct work to finish it. I bought a 10"x3.5"x6" duct convertor, a 6" to 4" reducer, and some flex 4" dryer ducting (plus a 4" hose clamp). That came to around maybe$20. I also bought a flourescent light (65 watt equvilent) to replace the incandesent bulb, to help reduce fire hazards.

I also am keeping a Kidde fire extinguisher nearby just in case my open armature blower motor doesn't play well with Krylon. Tests I have read from someone else who used a similar setup lead me to believe I nothing to worry about, but I would rather be safe than homeless.

So my estimate is that if you wanted to duplicate this project, your looking at around $75-$80 all told (presuming you can score a hood on Ebay for around \$30 including freight, which isn't too hard if your patient).

The blower is a two speed unit, and initial testing seems to indicate that even the low speed is suffient to create enough air draw for my purposes. Since my booth is near a window, I will just open the window and put the exhaust hose outside while its in operation, negating the need for making a replacement plexi window with a vent cutout like you would for a dryer.

I'm real happy how this turned out. Its compact, effective, realtively cheap, keeps the vapors to a minimum, and not too ghastly looking. Mission accomplished.

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Here is finished product with the light on. Its fairly bright inside. I'm toying with the idea of replacing the plastic sheeting with plexi glass, so the view is a little clearer. We'll see...

#### Lugnut

##### Well-Known Member
Here is a side view showing the duct work attachment and reducer attached to the rear of the hood. It just took a little bending of the attached flanges for the exhaust duct, drilling a few wholes through that and the hood, and a few sheet metal screws. Duct tape the reducer to the exhaust duct, slide the dryer flex tube on, and its done.