Oddroc scum. Mindsimmer.TRF Supporter
- Jan 23, 2009
- Reaction score
- Littleton Colorado
Those are beautiful and capture perfectly the feel of the plane.Thank you -- I think it is just the picture. The scoops under the points on the BT-55 tubes are centered horizontally. Is that what you mean?
EDIT: Ah, you said vertically. I basically squeezed the oval profile into the round space so there are definitely some compromises.
I wanted to create the oval profile on the front of these parts even though this needed to be mounted on a circular BT-55 tube (so I needed to create an unusual profile for that part).
Do you think there is a way to make them better?
EDIT: There is a slight notch in the rear of the pointed front of the part since I am hoping to make propellers that can snap onto them for display.
View attachment 559520 View attachment 559522
I got the impression they were a bit higher and stuck some above the flat surface of boom so put them a little above flush. They are actually not that much higher but may look a bit higher since my boom is round and the boom is somewhat squared off on the actual plane.Those are beautiful and capture perfectly the feel of the plane.
My question, however, did not capture what I was trying to ask. Sorry about that.
My question was about these "thingies" ( I cannot remember or find what they are) on the sides of the booms.
View attachment 559625
On the model they are biased toward the top of the boom, and on the airplane they are centered top to bottom on the side of the boom.
My kids want to see the propellers pinwheeling through the sky...Why not make them snap on (feathered) for fight? Breakage? Simply snap off and replace! SELL REPLACEMENT PACKS FOR BIG $$$.
You can do that with some clever ejection ducting!My kids want to see the propellers pinwheeling through the sky...
I can see that now. Without the taper on the booms the perspective changes on the Supercharger Intakes (thanks, @Daddyisabar ! )I got the impression they were a bit higher and stuck some above the flat surface of boom so put them a little above flush. They are actually not that much higher but may look a bit higher since my boom is round and the boom is somewhat squared off on the actual plane.
View attachment 559635
Yes, no doubt this would be easier to make stable if I just mounted the engine straight and tried to protect the rear stabilizer / cross-member / fin. Thanks for advice about paint. I was wondering about that option!Just my $0.02 worth - more of a question than an observation. If you direct the exhaust up or down away from the tail, it will pitch the model up or down. I build RC models and that would probably not work well. Would painting the connecting tail boom piece with HI-TEMP car motor paint work? I used some on my Bigger Daddy rocket for an exhaust tube to vent to the nosecone. I've only tried it once but it seems to have kept the heat down.
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Excellent video, loved the geese.I am going to try to launch this version a couple more times this weekend with the lugs on the top of wings (to assure they do not get ripped off). If it has issues I might rebuild and cant the motor less to see if that causes less stress on things.
Couple more flights this past week of two versions of my P-38 -- every time it flies quite high, does not burn the rear stabilizer, safely deploys recovery system (for NC), and body safely tumble / glide recovers (I tried both 15 degree cant and 10 degree cant with similar results and stability). However, the launch lugs keep getting ripped off and the flights are more "exciting" than I would like (most recent two launches only 1 lug got ripped off so that might have set the rocket to pinwheeling some).
Looking for suggestions / recommendations.
Here are the launches:
15 degree motor cant:
10 degree motor cant:
I am thinking about doing a pair of counter canted 18mm engines, increasing the size of rear fins, lengthen booms a bit, and maybe put the launch rail through the body if I can find the space. I could also maybe increase nose weight a bit more (although at 2oz it is pretty heavy).
So far I have only launched with a pair of straw-based launch lugs on the two wings and 2x 4' launch rods. Tried with lugs on both top and bottom. My logic of using the rods is that they can flex some and I think that a single launch lug on the bottom would get ripped off (due to engine cant) and the canopy is on the top which makes a top launch rail guide difficult / ugly. In one instance the motor ejected (I thought it was tight enough so did not put tape on it) and the front cone of the booms came off (I had not glued them and I guess they popped off at ejection charge or when parachute deployed).
Two questions about the launch lugs...
- What are they made of?
- How are you attaching them? (Pic would help.)
FWIW I was actually a little concerned about the type of plastic used since some are made of plastic that doesn't bond well and that's why I covered the lug in epoxy all around.Yes, they are plastic and glued on with CA glue.
I normally use 3D printed lugs for most models but have not usually had problems with the plastic straw lugs when I do use them. I think issue is that this launch is putting too much stress on them, not necessarily that they are not glued on strongly enough (although maybe I need to rethink these lugs if they do cause issues for people - I actually provide them as a bit of an afterthought since I figure most people have their preferred lugs / rail guides).
Been musing over this in the doctor's waiting room...
Wouldn't it be advantageous to build the P-38 as is. Test as a glider and get those niggling things like, I dunno, gliding sorted and then work out propulsion? The glider may need some revisions in terms of wingspan, dihedral, chord, noseweight, etc before trying to punt it into the sky.
Just my $0.02 I have a lot of gliders in notebooks and very few of my own designs in the air, but that's how I'd approach it.
Edit: Sorry if that sounded snarky, it wasn't meant to be. I just don't want you to give up on the gliding bit. You know I want to sell a glider. Yours or mine, I really don't care.
Try a single long lug glued to where the main body tube and wing meet like this, but on the backside...
View attachment 561719
The longer lug glued up against two surfaces should be very strong.
Also I'd recommend against having two rods. Iffy on if it works well and many won't want to do that (plus it would be difficult to do on a club launch).
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