3D Printing Ordered me a CR-10 V2

[rharshberger]

Just ordered a Creality CR-10 v2 from Tiny Machines 3D. I also went ahead and added the upgraded PTFE Bowden tube and a BL Touch, all of which TM3D installs and tests before shipping. I have heard good things about TM3D. Looking forward to the foray into 3D printing.

 

[David Schwantz]

Hi Rich, I got my first one also. Don't know squat about it, but am learning. I only have 2 more sections to print on my first project. Am enjoying seeing them turn out. Hope yours goes as well.

 

[Evolvant]

Why a CR10v2 vs a Ender 5 Plus for basically the same $?

 

[rharshberger]

Why a CR10v2 vs a Ender 5 Plus for basically the same $?

six of one, half dozen of the other, I liked the CR10 v2 better in my research. I also liked the form factor of the CR-10v2 better.

 

[David Schwantz]

Does the CR10 V2 come with the upgraded Motherboard? I would have to look but I think it has a slightly larger bed than my Ender 5.

 

[rharshberger]

Does the CR10 V2 come with the upgraded Motherboard? I would have to look but I think it has a slightly larger bed than my Ender 5.

It does have an improved motherboard, and like the Ender 5 series the upgraded 24V Meanwell PSU, all metal extruder and E3D V6 type hot end (or a clone thereof, not sure which). It also is fairly easy to mod even though it pretty much fixes all the things wrong with the original CR-10 series. I really did not find the need of a touch screen all that big a selling point as I am used to scrolling knobs with push to select.

 

[David Schwantz]

Mine does not have the touch screen either. My push button works just fine for this old guy. I did go ahead and print up some upgrades learning how to use the thing. I did bed supports, cable strain reliefs, lead screw support and a housing for my control panel. Granted, not needed, and I don't really know if it made any improvements. But looks cool

 

[rharshberger]

So far the only "upgrade" I may do is the 120mm Fan base for the controller box, one thing at a time though. I want to get used to the stock system before I start messing too much with it.

 

[Huxter]

I went w the CR10 Mini because it was ~ 80% built and $305! I wanted to keep things simple for my first 3d printer.

Please let us know how that upgraded Bowden tube is. That tube was the hardest part to install. It kept popping out until we figured out how to use the equipment properly. The instructions are quite lacking (to say it nicely!)

3d printers and Raspberry Pis just seem to go together! I just ordered a Pi 4 kit. This allows monitoring across the globe, and wireless transfers of files... First foray into Pis as well!

 

[David Schwantz]

My Ender 5 came with the Bowden tube preinstalled. I have had not a single problem with filament in the tube, and she has been printing non stop since Jan 19th.

 

[rharshberger]

I went w the CR10 Mini because it was ~ 80% built and $305! I wanted to keep things simple for my first 3d printer.

Please let us know how that upgraded Bowden tube is. That tube was the hardest part to install. It kept popping out until we figured out how to use the equipment properly. The instructions are quite lacking (to say it nicely!)

3d printers and Raspberry Pis just seem to go together! I just ordered a Pi 4 kit. This allows monitoring across the globe, and wireless transfers of files... First foray into Pis as well!

I looked at those too, one of the reasons I purchased from Tiny Machines 3D is that if you purchase the upgrades with the machine they will pre-install and test them to verify proper operation. One of the other reasons for the CR-10v2 is that I also am going to get back into miniature wargaming (Battletech) and printing terrain and props as well as a mech scale dropship 12"-ish diameter by 16"-ish tall (most likely in multiple pieces). I also have a 9 year old high functioning autistic son who seems drawn to technology and hopefully I can get him into design build, or print things he is interested in or better both.

 

[wsume99]

six of one, half dozen of the other, I liked the CR10 v2 better in my research. I also liked the form factor of the CR-10v2 better.

I have an ender 5 plus. The CR10 v2 comes with a better PSU, hotend and extruder than the stock ender 5 plus. The 5 plus is a better platform because the table only moves in the z direction and it is a larger build plate as well. So if you dropped the ~$100-125 for the upgrades then the 5 plus would be a better printer but I do think the CR10 v2 is a very good value. If I had one I'd install a raspberry pi and convert it to direct drive.

 

[wsume99]

3d printers and Raspberry Pis just seem to go together! I just ordered a Pi 4 kit. This allows monitoring across the globe, and wireless transfers of files... First foray into Pis as well!

I'm assuming you are planning to run octopi. I am and it's fantastic. I installed some relays inside the PSU that are controlled by the pi via GPIO so I can turn the printer and the LEDs I installed on and off from octopi. This plus a webcam and I'm very happy my setup.

My Ender 5 came with the Bowden tube preinstalled. I have had not a single problem with filament in the tube, and she has been printing non stop since Jan 19th.

I had no problems either for about 4 months. Eventually the pneumatic fitting on the top of your hotend will get lose and a gap will develop between the bowden tube and the hotend. This will cause a partially/fully clogged nozzle. Recently happened to me. There's a widely recommended "hotend fix" that I had seen suggested previously but I was pretty skeptical of until I had the problem it fixes. I applied the fix and have been running problem free ever since.

 

[David Schwantz]

Did you not have the safety in the Festo fitting?

 

[wsume99]

Did you not have the safety in the Festo fitting?

I had it in there from day one. Plus a bracket I printed for strain relief where the Bowden tube and wires enter the hotend. I don't know how but it definitely happened. Maybe you'll be luckier than I was.

 

[David Schwantz]

Mine is also tie wrapped to the cable, so the unit moves as one. Maybe a little bit more support.

 

[rharshberger]

Just got shipping confirmation on my printer, its coming from Houston Texas.

 

[rharshberger]

Setup yesterday and did the first test print, looks great to me. It had one string and one blob. The Creality Cat broke when I tried to separate it from the build plate, thats what the glue line about 1/8" from the bottom is from, it took a lot of pulling and prying to pop it free from the base. It was printed in vase mode so no infill. Honestly assembly didnt take long and levelling the bed took maybe 10 minutes, then the BL Touch did its thing and 6.5 hrs later the result pictured below

 

[cwbullet]

Either too thin sides or under extrusion will cause a print to break.

 

[rharshberger]

Either too thin sides or under extrusion will cause a print to break.

When I say "some force", I mean it was stuck very very well and I was concerned more about taking chunks out of the build plate. The sides were pretty thin about 2mm I would say. I didn't slice this one so I don't know what the slicer settings were for it as it came pre-done with the printer. I am starting a BT-20 nose cone right now and the slicer settings on this one I can play with, its small and should only take about an hour to print.

 

[David Schwantz]

Rich, I am brand new to this stuff also. So far I have found that cheap hair spray is great to get the first layer to stick. Be very careful with your build surface. Mine had the nice magnetic one that came with it. I had some trouble with layer shift and some how put a small crease from underneath, so there was a dent going up through the surface. When the nozzle hit it, it would cause it to skip. Now this surface can only be used on very small stuff. New one coming from China, be here April 23rd . I think your part looks great. I have not done the cat yet, I am more of a dog person.

 

[rharshberger]

Just did my first two mods to this printer, first was a Z axis wire and bowden tube "winch" made with a badge retriever and a printed mount for the top of the frame. Second was adding spring caps to the bed leveling springs, this is a common Cr-10 mod, I found that two of the four levelling knobs were not overly snug (easily bumped out of position) so adding the caps increased tension on the knobs. The caps can be 3d printed however as I did not have anything but PLA yet the area is right next to the heater blanket on all four corners, what I used instead is plastic screw covers from Lowes which are most likely Nylon. I cut the caps off the covers and inserted a nylon washer inside the cover as well. Knobs seem about right now, re-ran the auto levelling and adjusted the Z axix offset and am currently printing a levelling test block (one I have seen on several bench marking tests), so far so good.

 

[rharshberger]

A picture of my z-wire "winch" in action. The object to be printed is a Battletech Warhammer mech aka Macross/Robotech Tomahawk which should be about 6" tall when assembled. The material is Hatchbox PLA.

 

[wsume99]

I see that picture and the very first thing that popped into my head was "direct drive". The hotend on your printer was definitely made to be easy to convert to direct drive.

 

[Huxter]

Rich, that's a big printer compared to my mini! Where do you guys find these mods? Wondering what they do - IE the Z axis wire - does this help keep the wire from fraying/wearing thru the protective sleeve?

Thanks

 

[rharshberger]

Rich, that's a big printer compared to my mini! Where do you guys find these mods? Wondering what they do - IE the Z axis wire - does this help keep the wire from fraying/wearing thru the protective sleeve?

Thanks

The Z axis winch stops the wire and bowden tube from drooping down, on some larger prints ( X and Y area) the wire and tube have been known to snag the print and from there things go poorly.

Thingiverse and various internet searches have plenty of mods.

 

[rharshberger]

Okay its been two weeks now and so far so good. I just finished a 27.5 hour print, a set of legs for the control box to set on the were done from Hatchbox Orange PLA, with 50% triangular infill and Cura 4.5's generic PLA setting (so far this setting has worked very nicely for PLA, 200C hot end, and 50C bed). The print covered about 2/3 of the build plate (getting the raft off was a son of a buck, the build plate really holds its contact). So far there has been zero "messing" with the printer other than a few very simple ease of use mods like the aforementioned level spring caps and the badge retriever to keep the bowden tube and extruder wiring pulled up and away from the print (not that it was an issue yet). Given some of the stories I encountered while researching this printer I expected a bit more tinkering would be necessary, but I also wonder how much the pre-assembly (and BL Touch installation), testing, and custom software by Tiny Machines 3D contribute to the ease of use so far. I have kept this thing running at least 10 hours per day for the last week or so. So items printed were two complete Altimeter bays, a 4" tall Robotech Excalibur/Battletech Warhammer mecha, a 4" by 2.5" Game of Thrones style Dragon Egg that screws together to make a storage container (threads turned out great and worked, gave it to my oldest daughter who packs it everywhere). Getting to the end of my first roll of PLA so nearly 1.5kg printed so far, and I have a 1kg roll of eSun PETG waiting ready to pick up were the PLA left off. So far I am very pleased with this machine.

 

[kbfrazier]

Just completed 2 pieces of a 4 piece build on a design.

NC - Just over a 17hrs.
Section 1 - 63hrs.

BTW - Used eSun PLA+ with a 1.5 mm wall on a custom conic nose cone that sampled the Earth's Core. After 30 minutes of digging, the nose cone only had paint damage! Can't say enough for the strength of the material.

Keith

NAR# 37156

 

[kbfrazier]

If you can, use a tiled mirror from Home Depot. Be sure to remove the textured surface from your plate if you use this method. You will need to raise the bed temp by about 5 degrees but you will never have a problem on adhesion. I use 60 degrees bed temp for eSun PLA+. When the bed cools the part literally pops off the bed on it's own when you remove it. No spatula required.

Keith
Nar# 37156

 

[rharshberger]

If you can, use a tiled mirror from Home Depot. Be sure to remove the textured surface from your plate if you use this method. You will need to raise the bed temp by about 5 degrees but you will never have a problem on adhesion. I use 60 degrees bed temp for eSun PLA+. When the bed cools the part literally pops off the bed on it's own when you remove it. No spatula required.

Keith
Nar# 37156

So far Keith with the supplied build plate from Creality, its their Carborundum Glass (Ultrabase? like material) adhesion has so far not been an issue other than really large prints are harder to remove from the "unbroken in" sections of the build surface, a quick wipe with denatured alcohol is all the cleaning I do between prints, and a quick run over the surface with a razor blade scraper. Heres a Altimeter Bay I just finished for the Estes PSII Argent/Ventris transition.